The basic order: remove old strings, clean the fretboard, install new ones
Restringing a classical guitar takes about 30 minutes once you know the steps. You will remove the old strings one at a time, tie new nylon strings to the bridge, thread them over the nut, and wind them onto the tuning pegs. Classical guitars use a different tie method than steel-string acoustics — the string wraps around a bridge pin that sits in a hole, not over a saddle.
The process is straightforward if you follow the order: loosen and remove each string, clean the fretboard while it is exposed, install the new strings in the same sequence, and tune gradually to pitch. Rushing the tuning or tightening all strings at once puts uneven stress on the neck.
Key Takeaways
- Classical guitar strings tie directly to the bridge with a knot, not a bridge pin, so you need to learn the specific tie method or the strings will slip.
- Remove and replace one string at a time rather than all six at once, so the neck stays under tension and the fretboard stays clean and accessible.
- Wind each string around its tuning peg in a downward spiral with two to three wraps, keeping tension on the string so it does not slip during tuning.
- Tune gradually over several hours or days, because new nylon strings stretch and go flat repeatedly until they settle.
What you need before you start
Get a new set of classical guitar strings — these come in three plain nylon treble strings (high E, B, G) and three wound bass strings (D, A, low E). Buy them as a set rather than individual strings, because the gauges are matched to work together. Keep the package so you know which string is which.
You will also need wire cutters to trim the excess string after winding, a string winder (optional but saves your hand), and a clean cloth. A string winder is a small hand tool that turns the tuning peg for you — it costs five to ten dollars and makes the job faster, but you can wind by hand if you turn slowly and keep tension on the string.
Remove the old strings one at a time
Loosen the tuning peg for the high E string (the thinnest one, closest to your chin when you hold the guitar) by turning it counterclockwise. Turn it until the string is slack enough to untie from the bridge. Do not remove all the strings at once — the neck needs the tension of the other strings to stay straight.
Once the string is loose, go to the bridge at the bottom of the guitar. The string is tied to the bridge with a knot. Untie this knot carefully — you may need to wiggle the string or use your fingernail to loosen it. Pull the string out and set it aside. Repeat this for each string, working from the high E down to the low E, so you always have some tension on the neck.
While the strings are off, wipe the fretboard with a soft cloth. This is the only time you can easily clean under the strings. Do not use water or oil unless the fretboard is rosewood or another dark wood that can handle it — maple fretboards should stay dry.
Tie the new strings to the bridge
Classical guitar bridge knots are different from other guitar types. The string goes through a hole in the bridge, wraps around itself, and then wraps around the bridge pin. Start with the low E string (the thickest one).
Thread the end of the low E string through the hole in the bridge closest to the center of the guitar. Leave about two inches of string hanging below the bridge. Bring the short end up and around the long part of the string, then wrap it around the bridge pin (a small wooden or plastic peg that sits in the bridge hole). The string should make a loop that holds the pin in place. Pull the long end of the string tight so the knot cinches. The pin should sit snugly in the hole with the string wrapped around it.
If the knot slips when you pull, you did not wrap enough times. Undo it and wrap the short end around the long part two or three times before wrapping around the pin. Once the knot is tight, trim the short end with wire cutters so about half an inch remains.
Repeat this knot for each string, working from the low E to the high E. Each string goes in its own hole in the bridge, in order from the center outward.
Thread the strings over the nut and wind them onto the tuning pegs
Once all six strings are tied to the bridge, bring each one up and over the nut — the white or bone piece at the top of the fretboard where the strings sit. The strings should sit in the grooves on the nut in the same order they were in the bridge: low E on the far left, high E on the far right.
Start with the low E string. Thread it through the hole in the low E tuning peg (the leftmost peg on the headstock when you look at the guitar from the front). Leave about two inches of string sticking out past the peg. Hold the string tight with one hand so it does not slip, and turn the tuning peg counterclockwise with the other hand (or with a string winder). The string should wrap around the peg in a downward spiral — each wrap should sit below the one before it, not on top of it.
Make two to three wraps around the peg, keeping tension on the string the whole time so it does not bunch up or slip. Once you have enough wraps, trim the excess string with wire cutters. Leave about a quarter inch sticking out so the string does not unwind.
Repeat for each string, working from the low E to the high E. The treble strings (high E, B, G) wind the same way — counterclockwise, downward spiral, two to three wraps. Once all six strings are wound, the guitar is strung.
Tune and let the strings settle
Tune the guitar to pitch using a tuner. New nylon strings stretch as they are played, so they will go flat quickly — this is normal. Tune them up, play for a few minutes, and tune again. Repeat this several times over the first few hours. The strings will continue to stretch and go flat for a day or two, so expect to retune frequently.
Do not tune all the way to pitch and then walk away. Bring each string up gradually — tune to about 80 percent of the target pitch, play for a minute, then tune higher. This spreads the stretching over time and prevents the sudden shock that can damage the neck or cause tuning pegs to slip.
After a few days of playing and retuning, the strings will stabilize and hold pitch much better. At that point, you can tune less often. Classical guitar strings typically last three to six months depending on how often you play.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between classical and steel-string guitar strings?
Classical strings are made of nylon and tie directly to the bridge with a knot. Steel-string acoustic guitars use a bridge pin to hold the string in place. Classical strings produce a warmer, mellower tone and are easier on your fingers. Steel strings are brighter and louder but harder on your hands.
Can I use steel strings on a classical guitar?
No. Steel strings have much higher tension and will damage the neck and bridge of a classical guitar, which is built for the lower tension of nylon. Use only nylon strings on a classical guitar.
How tight should I wind the string around the tuning peg?
Wind it snugly but not so tight that you cannot turn the peg smoothly. The string should not slip when you tug on it gently, but the tuning peg should turn without grinding or resistance. If the peg is hard to turn, you wound too tightly or the string is bunched up.
Why do my new strings keep going flat?
Nylon stretches under tension. New strings stretch more than old ones, especially in the first few days. Tune them up, play for a while, and tune again. This is expected and will stop once the strings have settled, usually after two to four days of playing.
How do I know if I tied the bridge knot correctly?
The knot should not slip when you pull the long end of the string hard. The bridge pin should sit flush in the hole with the string wrapped around it. If the knot slips or the pin pops out when you tug, untie it and wrap the short end around the long part more times before wrapping around the pin.