The basic process: remove old strings, thread new ones, tune and stretch
Putting new strings on an electric guitar means removing the old ones, feeding the new strings through the bridge and tuning pegs, tightening them to pitch, and letting them settle. The whole job takes 15 to 30 minutes once you know the steps. You do not need special tools—a wire cutter and a string winder (optional but helpful) are the only extras most people buy.
The order matters: if you remove all six strings at once, your neck loses tension and can warp slightly. The safer approach is to change them one or two at a time, keeping most of the old strings under tension while you work. If your fretboard needs cleaning, this is the best time to do it, since you have access to the wood.
Key Takeaways
- Remove strings one or two at a time by loosening the tuning pegs, not by cutting them all at once, to avoid warping the neck.
- Thread each new string through the bridge saddle or bridge pin (depending on your guitar's design), then up through the tuning peg hole.
- Leave slack in the string before winding—about two to three finger-widths of loose string at the tuning peg—so you have room to wind it tight.
- Wind the tuning peg so the string wraps downward on the post, keeping tension even and preventing kinks.
- New strings go sharp and flat as they settle; tune them up to pitch, let them rest for an hour, then retune before playing seriously.
Loosen and remove the old strings one at a time
Turn the tuning peg counterclockwise to loosen the string until it is slack enough to remove by hand. You do not have to unwind it completely—just enough that you can pull it free from the tuning peg hole and the bridge. If the string is stuck at the bridge, gently wiggle it side to side as you pull.
Once the string is loose, you can either unwind it fully from the tuning peg or straightforward pull it out and discard it. Leaving the old string wound on the peg while you install the new one is faster and keeps the peg hole clear in your mind. Work on one string at a time so the neck stays under tension from the others.
Insert the new string at the bridge
Electric guitars use one of two bridge designs. On a through-body bridge, you feed the string through a hole in the bridge block from the back of the guitar, then pull it tight toward the tuning pegs. On a traditional bridge with bridge pins, you lay the string in the bridge saddle slot, then insert a plastic or wooden pin to hold it down.
If your guitar has a through-body bridge, thread the string all the way through and pull it snug—not tight, just snug enough that it sits in the saddle groove. If it has bridge pins, lay the string in the slot first, then push the pin in straight down; the pin's taper will lock the string in place. Make sure the string sits in the saddle groove, not on top of the pin.
Feed the string through the tuning peg and leave slack
Pull the string up toward the headstock and feed it through the hole in the tuning peg post. Leave about two to three finger-widths of slack in the string between the bridge and the tuning peg—this gives you room to wind the peg without the string going slack or kinked. If you leave too little slack, you will run out of post before the string reaches pitch. If you leave too much, you will wind the peg many extra times.
Hold the string taut with one hand while you position it in the peg hole with the other. The string should sit roughly parallel to the headstock as it enters the hole, not at an angle. This keeps the string from binding or slipping as you wind.
Wind the tuning peg downward and evenly
Turn the tuning peg so the string wraps downward around the post—toward the bottom of the headstock, not the top. This is the standard direction and keeps the string from slipping. As you wind, keep light tension on the string with your other hand so it wraps neatly in parallel coils, not crossing over itself.
Wind slowly and watch the string as it wraps. If it starts to cross over a previous wrap, stop, loosen slightly, and reposition it. A neat wrap looks like a spiral staircase; a messy wrap looks tangled and will not hold pitch as well. Most tuning pegs take three to five full rotations to reach pitch, depending on the string gauge and how much slack you left.
Tune to pitch and let the strings settle
Once the string is wound, use a tuner to bring it up to the correct pitch. New strings go flat quickly as the windings settle, so you will need to retune several times over the first hour. Tune the string up to pitch, wait a minute, check the tuner again, and retune if it has dropped. Repeat this two or three times.
After you have strung all six strings and tuned them, let the guitar sit for an hour before playing. The strings will continue to settle and drop in pitch. Retune one more time before you play seriously. After that, new strings usually hold pitch fairly well, though they may need small adjustments over the next few days as the windings fully compress.
Trim excess string and clean the fretboard
Once all strings are wound and tuned, use wire cutters to trim the excess string at each tuning peg—leave about a quarter-inch of string sticking out past the post so it does not unwind. Cut carefully so the trimmed end does not fly into your eye. Some players leave a bit more string for appearance, but a quarter-inch is functional and safe.
Now that the strings are off, wipe down the fretboard with a soft, dry cloth to remove dust and old buildup. If the fretboard is very dirty, use a cloth barely dampened with water, then dry it when ready. Do not use oil or lemon juice unless your fretboard is rosewood or ebony and you are sure the guitar maker recommends it—many modern fretboards are finished and do not need oil.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I change all six strings at once?
You can, but it is riskier. Removing all strings at once removes all tension from the neck, and on some guitars this can cause the neck to warp slightly, especially if the guitar is left unstrung for more than a few hours. Changing them one or two at a time keeps the neck under tension and is safer.
What gauge strings should I buy?
Check your guitar's manual or the manufacturer's website for the recommended gauge. Most electric guitars use .009 to .046 or .010 to .046 gauge sets. Thinner strings are easier to play but break more easily; thicker strings last longer but require more finger strength. Start with what the maker recommends, then experiment once you know what you prefer.
How often should I change strings?
It depends on how often you play. If you play daily, change strings every one to three months. If you play a few times a week, every three to six months is normal. Strings sound duller and feel rougher as they age, and they break more easily. Change them sooner if they sound dead or if you notice rust or discoloration.
Why do new strings go out of tune so quickly?
New strings have not yet settled into their wound coils. As you play and as the string vibrates, the windings compress slightly and the string stretches a little, both of which lower the pitch. This happens fastest in the first hour and gradually slows down over a few days. Stretching new strings by hand before you play also speeds up this settling.
Do I need a string winder?
No, but a string winder makes the job faster and easier, especially if you change strings often. A winder is a small hand tool that fits over the tuning peg and winds it for you with a crank. They cost $5 to $15 and save time, but winding by hand works fine if you are patient and careful.