What You Need to Do Before Your First Play
A new or unused guitar needs four things before it plays well: the strings must be tuned to pitch, the neck must be checked for a slight curve (called relief), the action—the height of the strings above the fretboard—must be adjusted so you can press the strings without pain, and the bridge and nut must sit level. You do not need expensive tools. A tuner, a straightedge, and a feeler gauge (a thin metal strip that measures gaps) cost under $30 total, and a guitar tech can do all of this in 30 minutes for $50 to $100 if you prefer to skip it.
Most players new to guitar skip setup because they think a guitar "just works" out of the box. It does not. A guitar that arrives with high action—strings sitting far from the fretboard—will hurt your fingers and make you quit. A neck with too much curve will buzz and rattle. Taking an hour to set up your guitar properly makes the difference between playing for a week and playing for years.
Key Takeaways
- Tuning is the first step and the only one you must do before playing; use a clip-on tuner and tune each string to its target pitch by ear or by watching the tuner's needle.
- Action height—how far the strings sit above the fretboard—should be around 2.0 mm on the bass side and 1.75 mm on the treble side at the 12th fret for most electric guitars.
- A straight neck is checked by sighting down the fretboard or using a straightedge; a slight forward curve is normal and necessary, but too much curve causes buzzing.
- Bridge and nut height determine action and cannot be lowered without tools or a professional; if action is too high, a tech can sand the nut and bridge or replace them.
- After setup, check tuning every time you pick up the guitar for the first month, because new strings stretch and settle.
Tuning Your Guitar to Pitch
Tuning is the only setup step you must do yourself before playing. A clip-on tuner clips to the headstock and reads the pitch of each string as you pluck it. Tune from the thickest string (low E) to the thinnest (high E). The standard tuning is E, A, D, G, B, E from thickest to thinnest. Pluck one string at a time, watch the tuner's needle or display, and turn the tuning peg until the needle centers or the display shows the correct note.
Turn the tuning peg slowly. If the needle swings past the target note, back off and approach it again from below. Tune all six strings, then go back to the low E string and tune it again—the act of tuning the other strings can shift the low E slightly. Repeat this cycle two or three times until all six strings hold their pitch when you pluck them in sequence.
New strings take time to settle. Expect to retune every time you play for the first two weeks. This is normal. Gently stretch each string by pulling it away from the fretboard at different points along its length, then retune. This speeds up the settling process.
Checking and Adjusting Neck Relief
A guitar neck needs a tiny forward curve—called relief—to prevent the strings from buzzing against the frets when you play. Too much relief makes the action too high; no relief or backward relief causes buzzing. You can check relief by sighting down the fretboard like a rifle barrel. Hold the guitar up to eye level, look along the side of the fretboard from the headstock toward the body, and see if the fretboard appears straight or has a slight curve.
A more precise check uses a straightedge and feeler gauge. Lay a straightedge flat across the frets from the 1st fret to the last fret. Slide a feeler gauge (a thin metal strip) under the straightedge at the 7th or 8th fret. A gap of 0.010 to 0.015 inches is ideal for most guitars. If there is no gap or the straightedge rocks, the neck needs adjustment.
Adjusting relief requires turning the truss rod, a metal rod inside the neck that controls curve. The truss rod nut sits at the headstock or at the body end of the neck. Turning it clockwise (tightening) reduces relief and lowers action; turning it counterclockwise (loosening) increases relief and raises action. Turn the truss rod nut only one-quarter turn at a time, wait 10 minutes for the neck to settle, then check again. If you are unsure, have a tech do this—a truss rod turned too far can crack the neck.
Measuring and Lowering String Action
Action is the height of the strings above the fretboard, measured at the 12th fret (the middle of the neck). Measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. For most electric guitars, aim for 2.0 mm on the bass side (low E, A, D strings) and 1.75 mm on the treble side (G, B, high E strings). Acoustic guitars typically run slightly higher, around 2.2 mm on the bass side and 1.9 mm on the treble side.
Action is set by the height of the bridge and nut—the two pieces that hold the strings at each end of the neck. Lowering action requires sanding or replacing these parts, which is not a beginner task. If your action is too high, a tech can sand the bottom of the nut and bridge to lower them. This costs $30 to $60 and takes an hour. Do not try to sand the nut or bridge yourself unless you have done it before; removing too much material ruins both parts.
If action is too low and strings buzz against the frets, the nut or bridge may need to be replaced, or the neck relief may need adjustment. Buzzing is usually a sign that something is out of adjustment, not that the guitar is broken.
Setting Bridge and Nut Height
The bridge is the piece at the body end of the neck that holds the strings. On an electric guitar, the bridge may be a fixed piece or a floating tremolo system. On an acoustic guitar, the bridge is glued to the top. The nut is the small piece at the headstock end that holds the strings in grooves.
Both the bridge and nut determine action height. If the nut is too high, the strings will be far from the fretboard at the first few frets, making the guitar hard to play. If the bridge is too high, the strings will be far from the fretboard everywhere. If either is too low, strings will buzz.
Adjusting bridge height depends on the type of bridge. On a fixed bridge, the bridge is usually glued down and cannot be adjusted without removing it. On a floating tremolo, bridge height is set by springs under the bridge. On an acoustic guitar, the bridge is glued and cannot be adjusted without removing it. If bridge height is wrong, a tech can remove and sand the bridge or replace it.
Nut height is adjusted by sanding the bottom of the nut or replacing it. A tech can do this in 30 minutes. If you try to sand the nut yourself, you risk making the grooves uneven or removing too much material.
Intonation: Making Sure Each Fret Plays in Tune
Intonation means that when you play a note at each fret, it is in tune with the open string and with other notes on the guitar. Poor intonation means that some frets play sharp (higher than they should) or flat (lower than they should). Intonation is set by adjusting the length of each string, which is done at the bridge.
Check intonation by tuning the open string, then playing the 12th fret harmonic (lightly touch the string at the 12th fret and pluck without pressing down) and comparing it to the 12th fret note (press down normally). They should be the same pitch. If the fretted note is sharp, the string is too short and needs to be lengthened. If it is flat, the string is too long and needs to be shortened.
On most electric guitars, the bridge has small screws or saddles that adjust string length. Turning a screw clockwise usually shortens the string (raises pitch), and counterclockwise lengthens it (lowers pitch). Make small adjustments—one-quarter turn at a time—and retune after each change. On acoustic guitars, intonation is set by the bridge position and cannot be adjusted without replacing the bridge.
Cleaning and Protecting Your Setup
After setup, wipe down the fretboard, neck, and body with a soft cloth to remove dust and fingerprints. A fretboard conditioner (linseed oil or specialized fretboard oil) keeps the wood from drying out, but use it sparingly—once every few months is enough. Do not use water or household cleaners on the wood.
Store your guitar on a stand or in a case in a room where temperature and humidity stay relatively stable. Extreme changes in temperature and humidity cause the wood to expand and contract, which shifts the neck and undoes your setup. A room between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit with 40 to 50 percent humidity is ideal.
Check your setup every few months. Strings stretch, wood settles, and tuning pegs loosen slightly over time. A quick retune and a look at action and relief will catch problems before they affect your playing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to set up a brand-new guitar right away?
Yes. New guitars ship with high action and may have neck issues from storage and shipping. Tuning and checking action should happen before your first play. A full setup—including relief, action, and intonation—should happen within the first week.
Can I lower action without a truss rod adjustment?
Only if the neck relief is already correct. If the neck has too much curve, lowering the bridge or nut will cause buzzing. Have a tech check relief first, then decide whether to adjust the truss rod or sand the bridge and nut.
What does it mean if my strings buzz when I play?
Buzzing usually means the neck has too little relief, the action is too low, or a fret is higher than the others. It can also mean you are pressing the string too lightly. Have a tech sight down the fretboard to rule out a neck problem before you adjust anything.
How often should I have my guitar professionally set up?
Once a year is standard for a guitar you play regularly. If you play in changing temperatures or humidity, or if you notice buzzing or high action, have it checked sooner. A setup costs $50 to $100 and takes 30 minutes to an hour.
Can I adjust the truss rod myself?
You can if you are careful and patient. Turn only one-quarter turn at a time, wait 10 minutes between adjustments, and check relief with a straightedge. If you are unsure, have a tech do it—a truss rod turned too far can crack the neck and cost hundreds to repair.