What You Need Before You Start

Stringing a classical guitar requires a new set of nylon strings, wire cutters, a string winder (optional but faster), and a tuner. Classical guitar strings come in three plain nylon treble strings (high E, B, G) and three wound bass strings (D, A, low E). Buy a complete set rather than individual strings — they are matched to work together and cost less than buying separately.

You will also need a workspace with good light and a flat surface to lay the guitar on while you work. Have a cloth nearby to wipe the fretboard and body as you go — old strings leave debris. If you have never done this before, set aside 30 to 45 minutes; once you know the process, it takes 15 to 20 minutes.

Key Takeaways

  • Remove all six old strings by loosening the tuning pegs until the strings go slack, then pull them out of the bridge and headstock.
  • Insert each new string into the bridge pin hole, thread it through the bridge, and find it with the bridge pin before moving to the tuning peg.
  • Wind each string around its tuning peg in a downward spiral, keeping tension so the string stays centered on the nut.
  • Tune the guitar to pitch and expect the strings to go flat over the next few hours as they settle; retune several times in the first day.
  • Trim excess string length at the headstock once the strings have settled and stopped dropping in pitch.

Removing the Old Strings

Loosen each tuning peg at the headstock by turning it counterclockwise. Work on one string at a time, starting with the high E string (the thinnest one). Turn the peg slowly until the string goes completely slack — you should be able to lift it away from the fretboard without resistance.

Once all six strings are slack, remove the bridge pins. These are the small wooden or plastic pegs that sit in holes along the bridge and hold the strings in place. Pull them straight up and out — they may require a gentle wiggle. Set them aside; you will use them again with the new strings. Pull out the old strings from both the bridge and the headstock and discard them.

Wipe down the fretboard and body with a soft cloth now that the strings are off. This is the easiest time to clean the guitar, and you will not have to work around string tension.

Installing the Bridge Pins and New Strings

Start with the thickest string, the low E (the wound bass string). Take the bridge pin for that string and insert it into the hole at the bridge — it should sit loosely in the hole for now. Thread the end of the low E string through the bridge pin hole, under the pin, and out toward the body of the guitar. The string should lie flat against the bridge.

Push the bridge pin down firmly into the hole. It will hold the string in place and should sit nearly flush with the bridge surface. The string will now be anchored at the bridge. Repeat this process for the other two bass strings (A and D), then the three treble strings (G, B, high E). Work methodically so you do not mix up which string goes in which hole.

Winding the Strings at the Headstock

Take the low E string and pull it up to the tuning peg for that string (the lowest peg on the headstock). Insert the string through the hole in the peg post. Leave about two inches of slack — too much string will require extra wraps and waste length; too little will not give you enough to wind.

Turn the tuning peg so the post rotates away from you (counterclockwise when looking at the headstock from the front). As you turn, the string will wrap around the post in a downward spiral. Keep light tension on the string with your other hand so it stays centered on the post and does not bunch up. Wind the string around the post three to four times, then stop and tune it up to pitch using a tuner.

Repeat this process for each of the remaining five strings. Wind the bass strings (A and D) the same way as the low E. For the treble strings (G, B, high E), the tuning pegs are on the opposite side of the headstock, so you will turn them clockwise instead — the direction is opposite, but the wrapping motion is the same. Keep the wraps neat and descending down the post.

Tuning and Settling

Once all six strings are wound and roughly at pitch, use a tuner to bring each one to its correct note. Start with the low E and work your way up. Do not expect the strings to hold pitch yet — new nylon strings stretch and will drop in pitch over the next few hours.

Retune the guitar every 15 to 30 minutes for the first two to three hours. Each time you retune, the strings will have dropped slightly. This is normal and does not mean you did something wrong. After the first day, the strings will have stabilized enough that they hold pitch between tunings, though they may still drift slightly for a few days.

Trimming Excess String Length

Once the strings have settled and stopped dropping noticeably in pitch — usually after a few hours or the next day — trim the excess string at the headstock. Use wire cutters to cut the string about one inch above the tuning peg post. Leave enough length so the string does not slip out of the post, but short enough that it does not create a tangle.

Cut one string at a time and retune when ready after cutting, because the release of tension can cause the pitch to shift slightly. Work carefully so you do not cut into the post itself or damage the headstock finish.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common error is winding the string too loosely or too tightly around the post. Loose wraps will slip and cause the string to go flat; tight wraps can break the string or strip the post. Aim for even tension that keeps the string centered without crushing it.

Another frequent mistake is inserting the string into the wrong bridge hole. Classical guitars have six holes in a specific order from thickest to thinnest. Check your guitar's manual or look at the bridge itself — the holes are usually marked or sized to match the strings. Putting a thick string in a thin hole can crack the bridge.

Do not trim the strings at the headstock before they have settled. Cutting too early will cause the pitch to shift again, and you may have to retune and recut. Wait at least a few hours, or until the strings have stopped dropping noticeably.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change classical guitar strings?

Most players change strings every three to six months, depending on how often they play and how the strings sound. Strings that sound dull, muted, or lose brightness are ready to be replaced. If you play daily, change them every three months; if you play a few times a week, every four to six months is typical.

Can I use steel strings on a classical guitar?

No. Steel strings have much higher tension and will damage a classical guitar's neck and bridge, which are designed for the lower tension of nylon. Classical guitars and steel-string acoustics are built differently. Always use nylon strings on a classical guitar.

Why do new strings go flat so quickly?

Nylon stretches when it is first put under tension. As the string stretches, it lengthens slightly, which lowers the pitch. This process happens most in the first few hours and continues at a slower rate for several days. Retune frequently in the first day, and the strings will stabilize.

What if a string breaks while I am winding it?

Stop when ready and remove the broken string. Install a new one from your spare set. If you do not have a spare, you can buy individual classical guitar strings at most music stores. Wind it the same way as the others and tune it up. One broken string does not affect the others.

Do I need a string winder for classical guitar?

A string winder speeds up the process and makes winding more even, but it is not required. You can wind by hand just as effectively — it straightforward takes a bit longer and requires more care to keep the wraps neat. If you change strings regularly, a winder is a worthwhile investment.