Stringing a nylon guitar takes about 15 to 20 minutes once you know the process
Nylon strings attach differently than steel strings. Instead of a bridge pin holding the string in place, nylon strings tie directly to the bridge with a knot. The other end wraps around the tuning peg and winds through a hole in the peg post. The whole job—removing old strings, cleaning the fretboard, and installing new ones—takes most people 15 to 20 minutes after the first time.
You will need wire cutters, a string winder (optional but saves time), and a new set of nylon strings. Classical guitar strings come in three pairs: three plain nylon treble strings (high E, B, G) and three wound bass strings (D, A, low E). The wound strings have a metal wrap around a nylon core.
Key Takeaways
- Nylon strings tie to the bridge with a specific knot, not a pin, so you must learn the bridge knot before you start.
- Wind treble strings (the plain ones) around the tuning peg post three to four times; wind bass strings (the wound ones) two to three times.
- Tune up slowly after stringing—new nylon strings stretch and go flat quickly, so expect to retune every few minutes for the first hour.
- Clean the fretboard while the strings are off, since you cannot reach under them once they are installed.
Remove the old strings one at a time
Loosen the tuning pegs at the headstock until each string is slack. You can remove all six strings at once, but removing them one at a time keeps tension on the neck and is easier on the instrument. Start with the high E string (the thinnest one) and turn its tuning peg counterclockwise until the string is loose enough to unwind by hand.
Once the string is slack, unwind it from the tuning peg post completely. Then go to the bridge at the body end and untie the knot holding the string to the bridge. Pull the string out and discard it. Repeat for each string.
Clean the fretboard while strings are off
With all strings removed, you have clear access to the fretboard. Use a soft, slightly damp cloth to wipe away dust and buildup along the frets. Do not soak the wood—just enough moisture to lift the grime. This is the only time you can clean under where the strings sit, so take a minute to do it now.
If the fretboard looks dry or dull, you can explore a small amount of lemon oil or fretboard conditioner after cleaning, but this is optional. Wipe away any excess so it does not drip onto the body.
Tie the bridge knot for the first string
The bridge knot is the most important step. Take the low E string (the thickest wound string) and hold it against the bridge. About two inches from the end of the string, make a loop by crossing the string over itself. Pull the short end of the string up through the loop, then pull it back down and under the bridge. The string now wraps around the bridge with the short end trapped underneath.
Pull the long end of the string tight. The knot should sit snugly against the bridge with no slack. The short end should be about an inch long and point downward. If the knot is loose or the short end is too long, untie it and try again—a loose bridge knot will slip during tuning.
Once the knot is tight, trim the short end with wire cutters so it does not poke your hand. Repeat this knot for all three bass strings (D, A, and low E), then for all three treble strings (high E, B, and G).
Wind the strings around the tuning pegs
Take the long end of the low E string and thread it through the hole in the low E tuning peg post (the peg at the bottom of the headstock on the bass side). Pull the string taut so there is no slack between the bridge and the peg. Leave about two inches of string beyond the peg post.
Bend the string at a right angle where it exits the peg hole. Turn the tuning peg counterclockwise (when looking at the headstock from the front) and wind the string around the post. For bass strings, wind two to three times around the post. For treble strings, wind three to four times. The wraps should spiral downward and not overlap. Once you have the right number of wraps, trim the excess string with wire cutters.
Repeat this process for each string, working from the bass side to the treble side. Keep the string taut as you wind so the wraps sit neatly against the post.
Tune up slowly and expect the strings to stretch
Once all six strings are wound and trimmed, tune them up using a tuner. Start with the low E string and bring it to pitch, then move to the A string, D string, G string, B string, and high E string. New nylon strings stretch as they are played, so they will go flat within minutes of tuning.
Retune every few minutes for the first 30 minutes. Gently stretch each string by pulling it away from the fretboard—this speeds up the settling process. After about an hour of playing and retuning, the strings will hold pitch much more steadily. Full stabilization takes a few hours, but the worst of the stretching happens in the first hour.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if I wind a string the wrong direction on the tuning peg?
The string will tighten instead of loosen, or loosen instead of tighten. straightforward unwind it and wind it in the opposite direction. Bass side pegs typically turn counterclockwise to tighten; treble side pegs turn clockwise. Check your guitar's design if you are unsure.
Can I reuse old nylon strings?
Treble strings can sometimes be reused if they are not broken or kinked, but bass strings lose their tone quickly and are not worth reinstalling. A full set of nylon strings costs between $5 and $15, so replacing all six at once is the standard practice.
How tight should the bridge knot be?
Tight enough that it does not slip when you pull the long end of the string. Test it by tugging on the long end—if the knot moves, it is too loose. Retie it. A properly tied knot will not budge even under full tuning tension.
Why do nylon strings take longer to settle than steel strings?
Nylon is more elastic than steel, so it stretches more under tension. This is normal and not a sign of a problem. The stretching stops after a few hours of playing, and the strings will hold pitch reliably after that.