Standard tuning is E-A-D-G-B-E, from the thickest string to the thinnest
The most common tuning for a six-string guitar is standard tuning: E, A, D, G, B, E. This means your thickest string (the low E string) is tuned to the note E, the next string to A, then D, then G, then B, and your thinnest string (the high E string) is also E, but two octaves higher. This is what most guitar teachers start with, what most songs are written for, and what most chord diagrams assume you are using.
Standard tuning became the default because it balances playability across the neck with a range that works for most music styles. The interval pattern—whole step, whole step, whole step, half step, whole step—creates a layout where common chords sit naturally under your fingers. If you are learning guitar or picking up a used instrument, standard tuning is where to begin.
Key Takeaways
- Standard tuning (E-A-D-G-B-E) is the baseline for most guitar instruction, chord charts, and recorded music.
- A digital tuner, tuning app, or reference pitch (like a tuning fork or piano) is the fastest way to get each string to the right note.
- Tuning by ear—matching one string to another—works once you know what standard tuning sounds like, but takes practice.
- Drop D tuning (lowering the low E string to D) is the most common alternative and requires only one string change.
- Strings go out of tune from temperature changes, humidity, new strings stretching, and normal playing, so check tuning before each practice session.
How to use a digital tuner
A digital tuner is the most reliable way to reach standard tuning. Clip-on tuners (which attach to the headstock) cost $10 to $30 and work by sensing vibration; they do not need to be plugged in and work in noisy rooms. Plug-in tuners connect to the guitar's output jack and are slightly more accurate but require a cable. Tuning apps on your phone use the microphone and are free, though they are slower and less reliable in background noise.
To use a tuner: pluck one string at a time, starting with the thickest. The tuner will show you the note it detected and whether you are sharp (too high) or flat (too low). Turn the tuning peg to bring the needle or display to center. Once the tuner shows the correct note, move to the next string. Tune all six strings in order, then go back to the first string and check again—tightening one string can loosen the tension on others slightly.
Tuning by ear once you know the reference pitch
Once you have tuned your guitar to standard using a tuner, you can tune by ear by matching strings to each other. This method relies on intervals—the distance in pitch between two notes. The most common approach is to hold down the fifth fret of one string and match the open string below it to that pitch.
Here is the sequence: tune the low E string using a tuner or reference pitch first. Then hold the fifth fret of the E string and tune the open A string to match. Hold the fifth fret of the A string and tune the open D string to match. Continue this way through G and B. For the high E string, hold the fourth fret of the B string (not the fifth) and tune the open high E to match. This method takes time to develop but is useful when a tuner is not available.
Drop D tuning and other common alternatives
Drop D tuning lowers only the thickest string from E to D, leaving the rest of the guitar in standard tuning (D-A-D-G-B-E). This is common in rock, metal, and folk music because the lower D string gives a heavier sound and makes power chords easier to play. If you want to experiment with an alternative tuning, drop D is the simplest—you only change one string.
Other tunings exist for specific sounds or styles: open G (D-G-D-G-B-D) is popular in blues and slide guitar; open D (D-A-D-F#-A-D) appears in folk and fingerstyle music; and half-step down (D#-G#-C#-F#-A#-D#) lowers the entire guitar by one semitone, which some players prefer for comfort or tone. Learning these is optional—stick with standard tuning until you are comfortable with the basics.
Why guitars go out of tune
New strings stretch as you play them, pulling the pitch down. This is normal and happens most in the first few hours of playing. Temperature and humidity changes also shift tuning: cold air contracts the wood and metal, lowering pitch, while heat and moisture expand them, raising pitch. A guitar left in a cold car or near a heater will drift noticeably.
Playing itself causes tuning drift—bending strings, using vibrato, or playing hard all pull the pitch around. Even sitting unused for a few days, a guitar may go slightly flat. This is why checking tuning before each practice session or performance is standard practice. It takes 30 seconds and prevents frustration later.
Tuning pegs and how to turn them
The tuning pegs (or tuning machines) are the knobs on the headstock that tighten and loosen the strings. On most guitars, the three pegs on the left side of the headstock control the three thickest strings, and the three on the right control the three thinnest. Turning a peg clockwise tightens the string and raises the pitch; turning it counterclockwise loosens the string and lowers the pitch.
Turn the pegs slowly and deliberately. A small turn makes a big difference in pitch, especially on the thinner strings. If you turn too far and overshoot, back up and approach the target note from below (by loosening first, then tightening to the right pitch). This prevents the string from slipping or breaking. If a tuning peg feels stiff or gritty, do not force it—the mechanism may need cleaning or lubrication, which a repair technician can handle.
Checking tuning stability on a new guitar
A new guitar or one with new strings will not hold tuning as well as an older instrument with settled strings. Expect to retune every few minutes during the first day or two of playing. This is not a sign of a problem—it is the strings stretching and settling into place. After a week of regular playing, the tuning will stabilize.
If a guitar that has been in use for months suddenly will not hold tuning, the issue is usually a worn tuning peg, a bent string, or a nut that is too loose. These are repairs for a technician. A guitar that goes out of tune only in one or two strings may have a bent peg or a string that is damaged; replacing the string often solves it. If the entire guitar drifts flat within minutes of tuning, the bridge or nut may be slipping, which also requires professional attention.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I tune a guitar without a tuner?
Yes, if you have a reference pitch—a piano, another tuned guitar, a tuning fork, or a tuning app. Tune the low E string to the reference first, then use the interval method (matching frets to open strings) to tune the rest. This takes practice and is slower than using a tuner, but it works.
What happens if I tune a string too tight?
The string will snap. This is painful and loud but not dangerous to the guitar itself. If you feel a string getting very tight and the tuner is not reaching the target note, stop and loosen it—you may have turned the wrong peg or the string may be damaged. Replace the broken string and retune.
Should I tune up to the note or down to it?
It does not matter for tuning accuracy, but tuning up (tightening) is slightly safer because it gives you more control. If you overshoot, you can always loosen and try again. Tuning down works fine too—just go slowly and listen carefully as you approach the target pitch.
Do I need to retune between songs?
Usually not, unless you played very hard, bent strings a lot, or the room temperature changed significantly. A quick check before a performance or recording session is good practice, but during a practice session or casual playing, tuning once at the start is often enough.
Is there a "best" tuning for beginners?
Standard tuning is the best choice for beginners because almost all instructional material, chord diagrams, and songs assume it. Alternative tunings are worth exploring once you are comfortable with standard, but starting there gives you the most resources and the easiest path to learning songs you want to play.