What time-lapse photography is and how to shoot it

Time-lapse photography is a sequence of still images taken at set intervals, then played back at normal speed to show motion that would otherwise take hours or days. A flower blooming, clouds moving across the sky, or the sun setting can all be compressed into seconds. You do not need expensive gear — any camera that lets you control the interval between shots will work, from a smartphone to a DSLR.

The core method is the same regardless of equipment: set your camera to take one photo every few seconds (or minutes, depending on your subject), let it run, then combine the images into a video in editing software. The longer the real-world event takes, the longer the interval between shots needs to be. A sunset might need one shot every 3 to 5 seconds; a plant growing over a week might need one shot every 10 minutes.

Key Takeaways

  • Time-lapse requires a fixed interval between shots — use your camera's built-in interval timer, a remote trigger, or smartphone apps that automate the timing.
  • Exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture, ISO) must stay constant across all frames, or the final video will flicker; use manual mode to lock them in.
  • The interval between shots depends on how fast your subject moves: fast motion (clouds, traffic) needs 2 to 5 seconds; slow motion (sunrise, plant growth) needs 10 seconds to several minutes.
  • You need 24 to 30 images per second of final video, so a 10-second time-lapse requires at least 240 to 300 photos.
  • Combine your images into a video using free software like FFmpeg or DaVinci Resolve, or paid options like Adobe Lightroom and Premiere Pro.

Choosing the right interval between shots

The interval is the time gap between each photo. Too long, and your video will look jerky; too short, and you will waste storage space and battery. The rule is straightforward: faster-moving subjects need shorter intervals, slower subjects need longer ones.

For fast motion — clouds, traffic, people moving through a crowded space — shoot every 2 to 5 seconds. For medium motion — a sunset, waves, a busy street — use 5 to 10 seconds. For slow motion — a flower opening, a shadow moving across a wall, construction progress — use 10 seconds to 2 minutes. If you are unsure, start with 5 seconds and review the result; you can always adjust the playback speed in editing if the motion feels too fast or too slow.

Calculate how many images you will need before you start. A 10-second video at 24 frames per second requires 240 images. If you are shooting every 5 seconds, that is 240 × 5 = 1,200 seconds of real time, or 20 minutes. If you are shooting every 30 seconds, that is 240 × 30 = 7,200 seconds, or 2 hours. This math helps you decide whether your battery and storage will last the full shoot.

Camera settings that prevent flickering

The most common mistake in time-lapse is letting your camera adjust exposure between frames. If one photo is slightly brighter than the next, the final video will flicker like a strobe light. To prevent this, shoot in manual mode and lock in your settings before you start.

Set your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO by hand and do not change them. If you are shooting outdoors during changing light (sunrise, sunset), you may need to adjust ISO slightly as the light shifts, but do this in large steps rather than letting the camera do it automatically. Some cameras have a "manual exposure lock" or "exposure compensation lock" — use it if available. On smartphones, tap the screen to lock focus and exposure, then start your interval timer.

White balance should also be locked. If your camera is set to auto white balance, the color temperature may shift between frames, creating a color flicker. Switch to a fixed white balance setting — daylight, cloudy, tungsten, or a specific Kelvin value — and leave it alone.

Using your camera's built-in interval timer

Most DSLRs, mirrorless cameras, and some smartphones have a built-in interval timer in the menu. On Canon and Nikon DSLRs, this is usually called "Interval Timer" or "Time-Lapse" and lives in the shooting menu. On mirrorless cameras from Sony, Fujifilm, and Panasonic, look for "Interval Recording" or "Time-Lapse Recording."

To use it, navigate to the menu, select the interval timer, set your desired interval (in seconds or minutes), set the number of shots you want to take, and press start. The camera will take photos at the interval you specified until it reaches the shot count. Leave the camera on a tripod, make sure the battery is fully charged, and do not touch it while it is running.

If your camera does not have a built-in interval timer, use an external remote trigger with interval capability. These are sold under names like "intervalometer" or "timer remote" and cost between $20 and $100. Plug it into your camera's remote port, set the interval and shot count on the remote, and start the sequence.

Using smartphone apps for time-lapse

Smartphones have made time-lapse accessible without extra gear. Both iOS and Android have built-in time-lapse modes in the native camera app — open the camera, swipe to "Time-lapse," and press record. The phone will automatically choose an interval based on how long you hold the button; the longer you record, the shorter the interval becomes. This works well for casual shots but gives you less control.

For more control, use a dedicated app. On iOS, Hyperlapse (free) and Moment (paid) let you set exact intervals and shot counts. On Android, Framelapse (free with ads, paid version available) and Time Lapse Assembler (free) offer similar controls. These apps also let you preview the sequence before you save it, so you can see whether your interval is working.

Smartphone time-lapse has one major limitation: the phone will dim or lock the screen if you do not touch it. Before you start, go to Settings, find the display or screen timeout option, and set it to the maximum (usually 10 minutes). Some apps have a "keep screen on" toggle — enable it if available. Prop the phone on a tripod or stable surface and do not move it during the shoot.

Stabilizing your camera and framing your shot

Any movement of the camera between frames will show up in the final video as a jitter or drift. Use a sturdy tripod and tighten all the joints so the camera cannot shift. If you are shooting outdoors on a windy day, weight down the tripod legs or hang a bag from the center hook to keep it stable.

Frame your shot with some thought to composition. Leave headroom in the sky if you are shooting a sunset, or space in the direction your subject is moving. Zoom in or out before you start the interval timer — do not zoom during the shoot, as this will cause the image to shift. If you are using manual focus, focus on your subject, then switch to manual focus mode so the camera does not hunt for focus between shots.

Check your framing on the camera's screen or in the viewfinder before you start. Take one test shot, review it, and adjust if needed. Once the interval timer is running, you cannot make changes without stopping and starting over.

Combining images into a video

After you have taken all your photos, you need to combine them into a video file. Free software like DaVinci Resolve (Windows, Mac, Linux) and FFmpeg (command-line tool for all platforms) can do this. Paid options include Adobe Lightroom (which has a built-in slideshow-to-video feature) and Adobe Premiere Pro.

In DaVinci Resolve, create a new project, import your image sequence (File > Import > Image Sequence), set the frame rate to 24 or 30 fps, and export as an MP4 or MOV file. In Lightroom, select all your images in the Library module, go to Slideshow, choose a blank template, set the duration per slide to 0.1 seconds (or shorter), and export as a video.

If you prefer the command line, FFmpeg can combine images with a single command. For example, to turn a folder of images named photo_001.jpg through photo_500.jpg into a 24 fps video, use: ffmpeg -framerate 24 -i photo_%03d.jpg -c:v libx264 -pix_fmt yuv420p output.mp4. Tutorials for your specific software are widely available online.

Common problems and how to fix them

Flickering video: This happens when exposure or white balance shifts between frames. In editing, some software has a "deflicker" filter that can smooth out minor flicker. If the flicker is severe, you may need to reshoot with manual exposure locked in.

Jerky or stuttering motion: This usually means your interval was too long for the speed of your subject. In editing, you can slow down the playback speed to make motion smoother, but this will also make the video longer. For future shoots, use a shorter interval.

Out-of-focus images: If some images are sharp and others are blurry, your camera may have refocused between shots. Switch to manual focus mode before you start, or use a smaller aperture (higher f-number) to increase depth of field so more of the scene stays in focus.

Battery died mid-shoot: Bring a fully charged spare battery and swap it in if the first one runs low. Some cameras let you swap batteries without stopping the interval timer; others require you to restart. Check your camera manual to see which applies to your model.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many photos do I need for a 10-second video?

At 24 frames per second, you need 240 images. At 30 fps, you need 300 images. The frame rate you choose depends on your software and playback platform — 24 fps is standard for film, 30 fps for video. Most editing software defaults to one of these, so check before you start shooting.

Can I use autofocus for time-lapse?

Autofocus will refocus between frames, causing some images to be out of focus and creating a "breathing" effect in the video. Switch to manual focus, focus on your subject, and lock the focus ring so it cannot move. This keeps every frame sharp.

What happens if I move the camera between shots?

Any camera movement will show up as jitter or drift in the final video. Use a tripod and do not touch the camera once the interval timer starts. If you want to move the camera smoothly across a scene, use a motorized slider or dolly, which moves the camera at a constant speed between shots.

Can I shoot time-lapse in low light?

Yes, but you will need a higher ISO and a slower shutter speed to gather enough light. Use manual mode, set ISO to 1600 or higher, and shutter speed to 1 second or longer. The trade-off is more noise in the image. For very low light, consider using a faster lens (lower f-number) to let in more light.

Do I need a remote trigger or can I use the camera's self-timer?

A self-timer will only take one photo, then stop. You need an interval timer (built into the camera or an external remote) to take multiple photos at set intervals. If your camera has no interval timer and you cannot buy a remote, use a smartphone app instead — most phones have interval timer apps available.