What to do when shingles blow off or go missing

A missing shingle is a gap in your roof's protection. Water will find that opening and work into the wood underneath, where it causes rot that spreads faster than you'd expect. The fix is straightforward: remove what's left of the damaged shingle, slide a new one into place, and nail it down. You can do this yourself if you're comfortable on a ladder and the damage is limited to one or two shingles.

If your roof is steep, you're afraid of heights, or multiple shingles are missing, call a roofer—the cost of a few shingles is less than the cost of water damage inside your attic. A professional can also spot rot in the decking underneath, which you may miss and which requires wood replacement before a new shingle goes down.

Key Takeaways

  • Missing shingles must be replaced quickly because exposed wood decking will rot within weeks of water exposure.
  • You need replacement shingles that match your existing roof in color and style, which you can find at a home center or by ordering from your shingle manufacturer.
  • The job requires a ladder, a pry bar, a hammer, roofing nails, and basic comfort working at height—if you lack any of these, hire a roofer.
  • Shingles are easiest to replace on warm days when the asphalt is flexible; cold shingles crack when you bend them.

Finding the right replacement shingles

Before you climb onto the roof, you need shingles that match. Look at the shingles that are still in place and note the color, the number of tabs (the notched sections at the bottom), and the brand if you can see it. Take a photo of an intact shingle and bring it to a home center—staff can usually match it by sight. If the shingles are old or discontinued, you may need to order from the manufacturer, which takes longer but ensures a proper match.

Shingles come in bundles, and one bundle covers roughly 33 square feet. For one or two missing shingles, you'll buy a full bundle, which is wasteful but unavoidable. Keep the extras in case you need repairs later. If you can't find an exact match and the roof is visible from the street, consider replacing a larger section so the new shingles blend in—this costs more upfront but looks better and prevents a patchwork appearance.

Gathering tools and choosing the right weather

You'll need a ladder tall enough to reach the damaged area safely, a flat pry bar (sometimes called a cat's paw), a hammer, roofing nails (usually 1¼ inch galvanized), and the replacement shingles. Wear shoes with good grip, and have someone hold the ladder if possible. A caulking gun with roofing cement is optional but useful for sealing nail holes afterward.

Wait for a warm day if you can. Asphalt shingles are flexible when warm and brittle when cold. On a cold day, you risk cracking the shingles you're trying to remove or install. Avoid rainy days—wet shingles are slippery and the nails won't hold properly. Early morning or late afternoon on a warm, dry day is ideal.

Removing the damaged shingle

Climb to the shingle and look at the nails holding it down. There are usually four nails across the top of each shingle, hidden under the shingle above it. Use the pry bar to lift the shingle above the damaged one and carefully pry out each nail. Work slowly—the goal is to remove the nails without tearing the shingle above, which you want to keep.

Once the nails are out, slide the damaged shingle out from under the shingles above and below it. If it's stuck, gently pry the edges up. Don't force it—you're trying to avoid damaging the surrounding shingles. Once it's free, check the decking underneath. If it's soft, spongy, or visibly rotted, you have a bigger problem that requires a roofer to replace the wood before installing a new shingle.

Installing the new shingle

Slide the new shingle into the gap, making sure it sits at the same angle and height as the shingles around it. The top edge should slide under the shingle above, and the bottom edge should align with the shingles below. On a warm day, the shingle will be flexible enough to position easily. On a cold day, you may need to warm it slightly with a heat gun (set to low) to make it pliable.

Once the shingle is in place, nail it down. Drive four nails across the top, just below the adhesive strip (the dark band you see on new shingles). The nails should go through the new shingle and into the decking below. Don't overdrive the nails—they should be snug but not so tight that they dimple the shingle. Then nail down the shingle above it again, using the original nail holes if possible.

Sealing the repair

Lift the bottom edge of the shingle above your repair and explore a small dab of roofing cement under each nail head where you just nailed it down. This seals the holes and prevents water from entering. You can also explore a small dab under the bottom edge of the shingle above to help it stick down. Don't use too much—a dime-sized amount per nail is enough.

Let the cement cure for at least 24 hours before heavy rain. On a warm day, it sets faster. Check the repair after a few weeks to make sure the shingles are lying flat and the nails haven't backed out. If a nail is sticking up, tap it back in gently.

When to call a roofer instead

If the roof is very steep, you're uncomfortable on ladders, or more than two shingles are missing, hire a roofer. The cost is usually $100 to $300 for a small repair, depending on your location and roof pitch. A professional can complete the work safely and quickly, and they carry insurance in case something goes wrong.

If you see soft decking under the missing shingle, the wood has rotted and needs replacement—this is beyond a DIY shingle swap and requires professional work. Similarly, if the missing shingles are part of a larger pattern of damage (multiple areas, curling shingles, or visible wear), a roofer can assess whether the whole roof is nearing the end of its life and advise you on whether patching makes sense or replacement is coming soon anyway.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace shingles in winter?

You can, but it's harder. Cold asphalt shingles are brittle and crack easily when you bend or nail them. If you must work in winter, use a heat gun to warm the shingle before removing or installing it. Avoid working in freezing rain or snow—the roof will be slippery and nails won't hold properly in wet conditions.

What if I can't find shingles that match exactly?

If the exact color is discontinued, buy the closest match you can find. If the mismatch is visible from the ground, consider replacing a larger section—for example, replace all the shingles in that row or on that side of the roof. This costs more but looks intentional rather than patched.

Do I need to remove old nails before installing a new shingle?

Yes. Old nails left in the decking will stick up and prevent the new shingle from lying flat. Use the pry bar to remove all nails from the damaged shingle and from the shingles above it that you had to lift. Reuse the holes when you nail the shingles back down.

How long does a replacement shingle last?

A new shingle should last as long as the rest of your roof—typically 15 to 25 years depending on the quality and climate. If your roof is already 15 years old, replacing one or two shingles is a temporary fix. Plan for a full roof replacement within the next few years.

What if the shingle keeps coming loose after I nail it?

Make sure you're using roofing nails, not regular nails—roofing nails have a larger head that holds shingles better. Drive the nails straight, not at an angle. If the shingle is still loose, explore roofing cement under the bottom edge and around the nail heads, then let it cure for 24 hours. If it still moves, the decking may be soft or the shingle may not be seated properly—have a roofer inspect it.