The Basic Process for Laying Bricks
Laying a brick patio involves preparing the ground, setting up a level base, arranging bricks in a pattern, and securing them with sand. The work is physical but straightforward—you do not need special tools or experience to do it yourself. Most homeowners can complete a small to medium patio over a weekend or two, though the timeline depends on the size and your comfort with the work.
The key to a long-lasting patio is getting the base right. If the ground underneath is not level and compacted, bricks will shift, settle unevenly, and create puddles. The base is where most problems start, so spending time here saves frustration later.
Key Takeaways
- Prepare the ground by removing grass and topsoil, then compact the soil with a tamper before laying any base material.
- Lay a 4-inch base of compacted gravel, then a 1-inch layer of sand, and check that both are level before placing the first brick.
- Arrange bricks in your chosen pattern (running bond, herringbone, or basket weave are common), leaving consistent gaps for sand joints.
- Sweep polymeric sand into the joints between bricks, mist with water to set up the binding agent, and let it cure for 24 hours before walking on the patio.
- Call a professional if the ground slopes badly, if you hit tree roots or utility lines, or if you are unsure about the layout.
Preparing the Ground and Setting the Base
Start by marking out your patio area with string and stakes. Remove all grass, weeds, and topsoil down to bare earth—usually 4 to 6 inches deep. Use a shovel to dig out the marked area, and haul away the soil. This step is labor-intensive but essential; leaving grass or soft soil underneath will cause the patio to sink and shift.
Once the ground is bare, compact the soil firmly using a hand tamper (a flat, heavy tool you pound into the ground) or a plate compactor (a machine you can rent from most tool rental shops). Compact in layers: tamp the soil, then add 2 inches of gravel, tamp again, add another 2 inches, and tamp once more. The goal is a solid, level base that does not move when you walk on it.
After the soil is compacted, spread a 4-inch layer of crushed gravel or stone dust over the entire area. Rake it level, then compact it again. This gravel base allows water to drain away from underneath the bricks, which prevents frost heave in winter and keeps the patio from becoming a swamp in heavy rain. Finally, spread 1 inch of coarse sand on top of the gravel, rake it smooth, and check that it is level using a long straight board and a spirit level.
Choosing and Laying Your Brick Pattern
Common patterns for brick patios are running bond (bricks laid in offset rows, like a brick wall), herringbone (bricks laid at 45-degree angles in a V-shaped pattern), and basket weave (pairs of bricks laid alternately horizontal and vertical). Running bond is the easiest for a first-time project; herringbone looks striking but requires more cuts and is slower to lay.
Start laying bricks at one corner, working outward in rows. Place each brick firmly on the sand base, tapping it gently with a rubber mallet to settle it. Leave a consistent gap—usually 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch—between bricks for sand joints. Use spacers (plastic pieces sold at building supply stores) or straightforward eyeball the gap if you are comfortable doing so. Check frequently with a level to make sure bricks are not tilting or sinking unevenly.
You will likely need to cut some bricks to fit the edges of your patio. Rent a wet saw from a tool rental shop or use a brick chisel and hammer. Wear safety glasses when cutting; brick dust is fine and irritating. Lay cut bricks at the perimeter so the pattern looks intentional rather than patched.
Filling Joints and Finishing the Patio
Polymeric sand is the standard choice for brick patio joints. It is regular sand mixed with a binding agent that hardens when wet, locking the bricks in place and preventing weeds from growing between them. Spread polymeric sand over the entire patio surface, sweeping it into the gaps with a broom. Work diagonally across the bricks so you do not sweep sand out of the joints you just filled.
Once all joints are filled, mist the patio lightly with a garden hose set to a fine spray. The water activates the binding agent in the polymeric sand. Do not soak it; a light mist is enough. Let the patio cure for 24 hours before walking on it. Some products require a second light misting after a few hours, so check the instructions on your sand bag.
After the sand has cured, sweep away any excess sand from the surface. Your patio is now ready to use. Polymeric sand will harden further over the next week, so avoid heavy use or power washing during that time.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
| Item | Purpose | Rent or Buy |
|---|---|---|
| Shovel | Dig out the patio area | Buy or borrow |
| Hand tamper or plate compactor | Compact soil and gravel | Rent (plate compactor) or buy (hand tamper) |
| Rake | Level gravel and sand | Buy or borrow |
| Spirit level (2 to 4 feet long) | Check that base and bricks are level | Buy or borrow |
| Rubber mallet | Tap bricks into place without cracking them | Buy |
| Wet saw or brick chisel | Cut bricks to fit edges | Rent (wet saw) or buy (chisel) |
| Broom | Sweep polymeric sand into joints | Buy or borrow |
| Gravel, sand, bricks, polymeric sand | Materials for the patio | Buy |
When to Call a Professional
If your yard slopes significantly (more than a few inches over the length of the patio), you may need to build a retaining wall or grade the ground more carefully than a straightforward DIY project allows. A landscape contractor can assess the slope and advise whether you can proceed or need professional help.
If you hit tree roots, rocks, or utility lines while digging, stop and call a professional. Utility lines (gas, electric, water, sewer) are dangerous to disturb. Call 811 before you dig to have utilities marked; this service is free and required by law in most places. If you uncover large roots, a contractor can help you work around them or remove them safely.
If you are unsure about the layout, the pattern, or whether your base is level enough, it is worth paying for an hour of consultation with a landscape professional. Getting the base right is the hardest part, and a second set of eyes can catch problems before you lay hundreds of bricks.
Maintaining Your Brick Patio
Brick patios are durable and require little maintenance. Sweep off leaves and debris regularly. If weeds grow between bricks despite the polymeric sand, pull them by hand or spray them with a weed killer made for use around pavers. Avoid power washing for the first year; the force of the water can dislodge sand from the joints.
After a few years, sand may wash out of some joints, especially in areas with heavy foot traffic or near downspouts. Sweep in fresh polymeric sand, mist it, and let it cure. This is a straightforward touch-up that takes an hour or two and keeps the patio looking tight and finished.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I lay a brick patio on top of existing concrete?
Yes, but the concrete must be clean, level, and not cracked. Sweep it thoroughly, then lay sand directly on top and proceed with the bricks. If the concrete is uneven or cracked, the bricks will follow those imperfections, so it is better to remove the concrete and start with bare ground.
How much does a brick patio cost?
The cost depends on the size of the patio, the type of brick, and whether you do the work yourself or hire a contractor. Bricks typically cost between $0.50 and $2 per brick, and you will also need gravel, sand, and polymeric sand. A 10-by-12-foot patio with materials alone might run $300 to $800, depending on brick quality and your location.
What if it rains before the polymeric sand cures?
Light rain is usually fine and may even help set up the binding agent. Heavy rain or flooding can wash sand out of the joints. If heavy rain is forecast, wait to mist the patio until after the rain passes, then proceed with the curing process. If sand washes out, straightforward sweep in fresh polymeric sand and mist again.
Do I need to edge the patio with a border?
No, but a border (plastic, metal, or concrete edging) keeps the outer bricks from shifting outward and looks finished. If you skip the border, the outer bricks may move slightly over time, especially if the patio is walked on heavily at the edges. A border is optional but recommended for patios that will see regular use.
How long does a brick patio last?
A well-built brick patio can last 25 years or more. The bricks themselves are very durable; the limiting factor is usually the sand joints, which may need refreshing every 5 to 10 years depending on climate and use. In areas with freeze-thaw cycles, some bricks may crack over time, but this is slow and does not usually affect the patio's function.