Start with a level base and proper drainage
A brick patio lasts longer and looks better when it sits on a solid, level foundation. The first step is to mark out your patio area with stakes and string, then remove the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and grass. Use a shovel or a rented sod cutter to strip away the turf, then rake the exposed soil smooth.
Once the area is cleared, check the slope. Your patio should slope away from your house at a rate of about 1/8 inch per foot—this lets water drain instead of pooling. Use a long straight board and a level to check this as you work. Compact the soil firmly with a hand tamper or rented plate compactor, working in overlapping passes until the ground feels solid underfoot and doesn't shift when you step on it.
Lay down a 2-inch layer of landscape fabric over the compacted soil to prevent weeds from growing up through the bricks. This step saves you hours of maintenance later.
Key Takeaways
- Excavate 4 to 6 inches of soil, compact it firmly, and slope the ground away from your house at 1/8 inch per foot so water drains properly.
- Add a 2-inch sand base, level it carefully, and use a straight board and level to check that your slope is consistent across the entire patio area.
- Lay bricks in a running bond or herringbone pattern, tapping each one down with a rubber mallet so the tops are flush and level with their neighbors.
- Fill the joints between bricks with polymeric sand, which hardens when wet and locks the bricks in place without mortar.
- Edge the patio with a metal or plastic border to keep bricks from shifting outward over time.
Add a sand base and create a level working surface
Pour 2 inches of coarse sand over the landscape fabric and spread it evenly across the entire patio area. This sand layer lets water drain while giving the bricks a stable bed to sit on. Rake the sand smooth, then use a long straight board (a 2×4 works well) laid across the patio to check that the sand is level and slopes correctly away from your house.
Wet the sand lightly with a garden hose, then compact it with a plate compactor or hand tamper. The sand should feel firm and not shift under your weight. Check the level and slope again after compacting—sand settles, so you may need to add a bit more and re-level. This step takes patience, but a properly prepared base prevents bricks from settling unevenly later.
Lay the bricks in your chosen pattern
The two most common patterns for brick patios are running bond (bricks laid in offset rows, like a brick wall) and herringbone (bricks laid at 45-degree angles in a V-shaped weave). Running bond is faster for beginners; herringbone looks more formal but uses more cuts. Choose your pattern before you start, because changing it halfway through wastes bricks and time.
Start at one corner and lay the first brick firmly into the sand, pressing down with a rubber mallet until the top is level with the sand surface. Lay the next brick beside it, leaving a gap of about 1/8 inch (roughly the thickness of a pencil) for the joint. Use a spacer or a pencil to keep the gap consistent. Continue laying bricks row by row, checking frequently with a level to make sure the tops stay flush and the slope toward the drainage direction remains even.
When you reach an edge and need to cut a brick, use a brick saw or a circular saw with a masonry blade. Mark the cut line with a pencil, wet the brick, and cut slowly to avoid cracking. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask—brick dust is silica and harmful to breathe.
Fill joints with polymeric sand
Polymeric sand is a special sand mixed with a binder that hardens when wet. It locks the bricks together without the mess of mortar and is much easier for a first-time builder to use. Sweep the sand across the patio surface, working it into the joints between bricks with a broom. Push the sand down into the gaps until they are full and level with the brick tops.
Once all the joints are filled, mist the entire patio lightly with a garden hose. Use a fine spray—do not blast the bricks with water, or you will wash the sand out of the joints. The water activates the binder in the polymeric sand, and it will harden over the next 24 to 48 hours. Keep foot traffic off the patio during this time.
After the sand hardens, sweep away any excess sand from the surface. The joints should be solid and the bricks should not move when you step on them.
Install edging to prevent bricks from shifting
Bricks on the outer edge of a patio can shift outward over time, especially if the ground settles or if someone steps on the edge repeatedly. Install an edge restraint—a metal or plastic border that runs around the perimeter of the patio and holds the bricks in place.
Dig a shallow trench along the outer edge of your patio, about 1 inch deep and wide enough to fit the edging. Lay the edging in the trench so the top sits level with or slightly below the brick surface, then backfill with soil and tamp it down. Metal edging lasts longer than plastic, but plastic is cheaper and works fine for most patios.
Maintain your patio to extend its life
A brick patio needs little upkeep, but a few straightforward steps keep it looking good. Sweep it regularly to remove leaves and dirt. If weeds grow between the bricks, pull them by hand or spray them with a weed killer made for polymeric sand joints—some weed killers can break down the sand binder, so check the label.
Every few years, you may notice that some joints have worn away or that bricks have settled unevenly. Sweep fresh polymeric sand into any gaps that have opened up, mist with water, and let it harden. If a brick cracks or breaks, you can remove it by chiseling out the surrounding sand, lifting the brick out, and laying a new one in its place.
Common mistakes to avoid
The most frequent error is skipping the compaction step. Uncompacted soil settles under the weight of the bricks and foot traffic, causing the patio to develop low spots and puddles. Spend the time to compact the soil and sand properly—it takes an hour or two but prevents problems that would take days to fix later.
Another common mistake is not sloping the patio enough for drainage. A patio that is too flat will hold water after rain, which freezes in winter and can crack bricks. Check your slope with a level and straight board as you work, and adjust the sand base if needed.
Do not use regular sand in the joints—it washes out in the first rain and leaves gaps where weeds grow. Polymeric sand costs a bit more but saves you from constant maintenance. Also, avoid laying bricks on a windy day when you are filling joints with polymeric sand, because the sand can blow away before you can mist it.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to build a brick patio?
A 10-by-12-foot patio takes a weekend if you work steadily—roughly 6 to 8 hours for site prep, 4 to 6 hours for laying bricks, and 2 to 3 hours for filling joints. Larger patios take proportionally longer. Add extra time if you are cutting many bricks or if the ground is very uneven to start with.
Do I need a permit to build a patio?
Most cities do not require a permit for a straightforward brick patio on residential property, but some do if the patio is larger than a certain size or if it is close to a property line. Call your local building department before you start to confirm what applies in your area.
Can I lay bricks directly on soil without sand?
You can, but the bricks will settle unevenly and the patio will become uneven within a year or two. The sand base lets water drain and gives the bricks a stable, level surface. It is worth the extra effort and cost.
What if my patio area is not level to begin with?
Use the sand base to correct minor slopes. Add more sand to low spots and less to high spots, then level and compact. If the ground is very uneven, you may need to remove more soil from high areas and add it to low areas before you lay the sand base.
Can I build a brick patio in cold weather?
Avoid laying bricks when the temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, because polymeric sand does not harden properly in cold weather. Wait for warmer weather, or use traditional mortar instead, which can be applied in cooler conditions—though mortar is messier and harder for beginners.