The Basic Process for Laying Bricks

Laying a brick patio means building a flat, stable surface by setting individual bricks into a prepared base, one row at a time, in a pattern you choose. The work breaks into five main stages: preparing the ground, creating a sand base, laying the bricks in your chosen pattern, filling the gaps between them, and letting everything settle. Most homeowners can complete a small patio (10 by 12 feet) in a weekend, though the ground preparation often takes longer than the actual brick-laying.

The key to a patio that stays level and doesn't shift is getting the base right before you place a single brick. Bricks themselves are forgiving—if one sits slightly high or low, you can tap it down or add sand underneath. But if your base is uneven or unstable, no amount of careful brick placement will fix it later.

Key Takeaways

  • Dig out the patio area to a depth of 4 to 6 inches, remove grass and roots, and compact the soil firmly with a hand tamper or plate compactor.
  • Lay landscape fabric over the compacted soil, then add 1 inch of coarse sand, spread level, and compact it again before you place any bricks.
  • Set bricks in your chosen pattern (running bond, herringbone, or basket weave are common), tapping each one down with a rubber mallet so the tops are level with your string line.
  • Sweep fine sand into the gaps between bricks, spray the whole patio lightly with water to settle the sand, and repeat until the gaps are full.
  • Let the patio sit for a week before walking on it heavily, and check for low spots or movement before you consider the job finished.

Preparing the Ground and Setting Depth

Start by marking out the patio area with stakes and string. Dig down 4 to 6 inches across the entire space—this depth leaves room for a sand base and the brick itself. Use a shovel to remove all grass, roots, and loose soil. The goal is to reach firm, undisturbed earth. If you hit clay or very hard ground, that is actually good; it will compact well and support the bricks.

Once you have dug to depth, compact the soil with a hand tamper (a flat metal plate on a handle, which you lift and drop repeatedly) or rent a plate compactor from a tool rental shop. Compact in overlapping passes until the soil feels solid underfoot and does not shift when you step on it. This step prevents settling later. If the ground is very soft or wet, let it dry for a day or two before compacting.

Check that your patio area slopes slightly—about 1/8 inch per foot—away from any building or toward a drainage area. You can do this by laying a long straight board across the dug area and placing a level on top, then adjusting the high and low points as you compact. A slight slope keeps water from pooling on the finished patio.

Laying the Sand Base

Lay landscape fabric over the compacted soil. This prevents weeds from growing up through the sand and between the bricks later. Overlap the edges by 6 inches and trim it flush with the edges of your patio area once it is down.

Spread coarse sand (also called concrete sand or builder's sand—not fine play sand) over the fabric to a depth of 1 inch. Use a long straight board to screed, or level, the sand: lay the board across the top of the patio area and drag it toward you, filling low spots as you go. The sand should be level and firm. Compact this sand layer lightly with a hand tamper or the plate compactor set to a low setting. The sand should not shift when you walk on it, but it should not be rock-hard either.

Before you lay the first brick, set up a string line along one edge of the patio at the height the brick tops should reach. This line is your reference for keeping all the bricks level. Adjust the sand underneath if any spot is too high or too low.

Choosing and Laying Your Brick Pattern

The three most common patterns for a patio are running bond (bricks laid end-to-end in offset rows, like a brick wall), herringbone (bricks laid at 45-degree angles in a V-shaped pattern), and basket weave (pairs of bricks laid alternately horizontal and vertical). Running bond is the easiest for a first-time patio and uses the least waste. Herringbone looks more formal but requires cutting bricks at the edges. Basket weave falls between the two in difficulty.

Start laying bricks at one corner, working toward the opposite corner. Set each brick firmly into the sand by tapping it down with a rubber mallet. The brick should sit level with your string line—not higher, not lower. If a brick sits too high, tap it harder. If it sits too low, lift it out, add a pinch of sand underneath, and reset it. Work in small sections (3 to 4 feet at a time) so you can keep checking your string line and adjusting as you go.

Leave a consistent gap between bricks—usually 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. You can use plastic spacers (sold at patio supply shops) to keep gaps even, or straightforward eyeball it if you are comfortable doing so. Once you have laid a section, step back and look at it. The tops should form a flat plane. If you see a brick that is noticeably higher or lower than its neighbors, reset it now before you move on.

When you reach the edges of the patio, you will likely need to cut bricks to fit. Rent a wet saw (a circular saw with a diamond blade, designed for cutting masonry) from a tool rental shop. Mark the brick with a pencil, set it in the saw's guide, and let the blade do the work. Wear a dust mask and eye protection. Cut bricks are heavier and more fragile than whole ones, so handle them carefully.

Filling Gaps and Settling the Sand

Once all the bricks are laid, sweep fine sand (also called polymeric sand or joint sand) across the entire patio surface. Work the sand into the gaps between bricks using a broom, sweeping at an angle so the sand fills the joints rather than pushing bricks apart. Sweep off the excess sand from the brick faces.

Spray the patio lightly with water from a garden hose set to a gentle mist. Do not blast it with high pressure, which can wash the sand out of the joints. The water helps the sand settle and compact into the gaps. Let it dry for a few hours, then sweep and spray again. Repeat this process two or three times over the next day or two until the gaps are completely full and the sand no longer settles noticeably.

After the final watering, let the patio sit undisturbed for at least a week before you walk on it heavily or place furniture on it. During this time, the sand continues to settle and the bricks lock into place. Check the patio after a few days of rain to see if any low spots have formed or if water is pooling. If so, you may need to add more sand to those areas and repeat the settling process.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most frequent error is skipping or rushing the ground preparation. A patio laid on unprepared soil will shift and settle unevenly within a year. Take the time to dig, remove roots, and compact properly. The second mistake is using the wrong sand. Play sand or fine sand will not compact and will wash away in rain. Use coarse sand for the base and polymeric or joint sand for the gaps.

A third mistake is laying bricks without checking level frequently. It is straightforward to drift out of level as you work, and correcting a whole section later is much harder than tapping one brick down as you go. Use your string line constantly. Finally, do not walk on the patio or place heavy objects on it when ready after laying. The sand needs time to settle and lock the bricks in place. Premature use can shift bricks and create low spots.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

For a 10-by-12-foot patio, gather a shovel, hand tamper or rented plate compactor, long straight board (a 2-by-4 works well), level, rubber mallet, landscape fabric, coarse sand (about 1 cubic yard), bricks (roughly 120 for a 10-by-12 area, depending on brick size), fine joint sand, a broom, a garden hose, and stakes and string. If you need to cut bricks, rent a wet saw. Wear work gloves, a dust mask when cutting, and eye protection.

The total cost for materials on a small patio varies by region and brick type, but typically falls between $300 and $600. Rental costs for a plate compactor or wet saw are usually $40 to $80 per day. Check with local tool rental shops and building supply stores for current prices in your area, as costs change based on availability and demand.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to use mortar between the bricks?

No. A sand-set patio (held together by sand in the joints) is the standard for residential patios and is easier for a beginner. Mortar is used for permanent installations like walls or patios in very wet climates, and it requires more skill to explore evenly. Sand-set patios are flexible, drain well, and can be taken apart and reset if needed.

What if my patio area is not level to begin with?

You can adjust the sand base to compensate for a slight slope, but if the ground drops more than a few inches across the patio, you may need to add a retaining edge or build up the low side with additional soil and sand. For a large slope, consider breaking the patio into two or more level sections instead of trying to force one slope across the whole area.

How long does a sand-set brick patio last?

A well-built sand-set patio typically lasts 10 to 15 years before you need to re-sand the joints or reset a few bricks. Bricks themselves last 50 years or more. The main maintenance is sweeping out debris and occasionally adding sand to joints that have washed out. In very cold climates where the ground freezes and thaws, the patio may shift more frequently.

Can I lay a patio on top of concrete?

Yes, but the concrete must be clean, level, and in good condition. Sweep it thoroughly, then lay landscape fabric and sand directly on top. The sand layer will be thinner (about 1/2 inch) because you do not need to dig. This method is faster but offers less drainage, so make sure water can run off the edges.

What should I do if bricks start to shift or sink after the patio is finished?

A few shifted bricks are normal in the first few weeks as the sand settles. If the problem continues or gets worse, it usually means the base was not compacted enough or the sand was not the right type. You can lift out the problem bricks, add more compacted sand underneath, and reset them. If the whole patio is sinking, you may need to remove it, redo the base, and relay the bricks.