A brick patio takes planning and patience, but you can do it without hiring a contractor

Building a brick patio means laying a foundation, setting up a border, spreading sand, and placing bricks in a pattern you choose. The whole job typically takes a weekend for a small patio (8 by 10 feet) and longer for larger spaces. You will need a level, a rubber mallet, a shovel, and a wheelbarrow—most people already own these or can borrow them. The hardest part is not the bricks themselves but getting the ground flat and keeping it that way as you work.

This guide walks you through each step in order, with timing and the mistakes that slow people down. You do not need special skills, but you do need to follow the sequence: rushing the base is the single most common reason patios sink or shift after a year.

Key Takeaways

  • The foundation—a compacted gravel base—matters more than the bricks themselves; skipping this step causes uneven settling and puddles.
  • Bricks sit on a 1-inch layer of sand, not directly on gravel, and the sand must be level before you lay the first brick.
  • A border of plastic edging or a concrete curb keeps bricks from spreading outward as people walk on the patio.
  • Lay bricks in a running bond or herringbone pattern, checking level every few rows and tapping bricks down with a rubber mallet.
  • Sweep sand into the joints after laying all bricks, then water the patio to settle the sand and lock the bricks in place.

Measure the space and mark the outline

Decide on the size and shape of your patio and mark it on the ground with chalk or spray paint. For a rectangular patio, measure the diagonals—if both diagonals are equal, your corners are square. Use stakes and string to outline the edges so you can see exactly where you will dig.

Check the slope of the ground by laying a long straight board across the marked area and placing a level on top. The patio should slope slightly away from your house (about 1/8 inch per foot) so water drains and does not pool. If the ground is already sloped the right way, you are ahead. If it slopes toward your house or is flat, you will need to grade it as you prepare the base.

Dig out and compact the base layer

Remove grass, weeds, and topsoil from the marked area down to bare earth. Use a shovel to dig out about 4 to 5 inches of soil. This depth leaves room for 4 inches of compacted gravel and 1 inch of sand on top, which brings the finished patio level with the surrounding ground (or slightly higher if you want better drainage).

Spread 4 inches of gravel or crushed stone over the dug-out area. Use a hand tamper or a plate compactor (which you can rent from a tool rental shop for about $40 to $60 per day) to compress the gravel firmly. Compact in overlapping passes, working from one end to the other. The gravel should feel solid underfoot and not shift when you walk on it. This is the step most people rush, and it is why their patios develop low spots and puddles within a year. Spend 20 to 30 minutes on this step even if it feels tedious.

Install a border to hold the bricks in place

Bricks want to spread outward under foot traffic, so a border keeps them contained. You can use plastic landscape edging (the cheapest option, about $1 to $2 per foot), aluminum edging, or a concrete curb poured along the perimeter.

For plastic edging, dig a shallow trench along the outline of your patio, about 1 inch deep. Snap the edging into place and drive stakes through the pre-drilled holes into the ground every 2 feet. The top of the edging should sit just above the finished height of the patio so bricks do not spill over. If you are pouring a concrete curb, do that before laying sand—let the concrete cure for at least 48 hours before proceeding.

Spread and level the sand base

Pour 1 inch of coarse sand (also called concrete sand or mason sand—not play sand) over the compacted gravel. Spread it evenly with a shovel or a rake. This sand layer lets you adjust individual bricks up and down as you lay them, and it fills small gaps between the gravel and the bricks.

Use a long straight board (a 2-by-4 works well) laid across the patio to screed, or level, the sand. Rest the board on the border on both sides and drag it toward you, shaving off high spots and filling low spots. Work in sections, moving the board along the length of the patio. The sand should be flat and firm. If you step on it and leave a deep footprint, it is too loose—tamp it lightly with a hand tamper or the back of a shovel.

Lay the bricks in your chosen pattern

Start at one corner and lay bricks in a pattern. The two most common patterns are running bond (bricks laid end-to-end in staggered rows, like a brick wall) and herringbone (bricks laid at 45-degree angles in a V-shaped weave). Running bond is faster for beginners; herringbone looks more finished but uses more bricks and takes longer.

Lay the first brick firmly into the sand, pressing down by hand. Use a rubber mallet to tap it level—tap gently around the edges and center until the brick sits flush with its neighbors. Check level every few bricks with a 2-foot or 4-foot level. Bricks should be snug but not forced; if a brick does not sit level after tapping, lift it, add or remove sand underneath, and try again. Leave no gaps wider than 1/8 inch between bricks.

Work row by row across the patio. Lay all bricks before you fill the joints. This takes 2 to 4 hours for a small patio, depending on pattern and your pace. Do not rush—a brick laid crooked now is hard to fix later.

Fill the joints and lock the bricks in place

Once all bricks are laid, sweep coarse sand across the entire patio, working it into the joints between bricks. Sweep in multiple directions so sand fills the gaps completely. You may need to sweep and refill the joints two or three times as sand settles.

Water the patio lightly with a garden hose set to a gentle spray. The water carries sand deeper into the joints and compacts it. Let the patio dry for a few hours, then sweep and water again. After the second watering, the sand should be locked in place and the bricks should feel solid and immobile underfoot. If you see low spots or puddles forming, you may need to add more sand to those areas and water again.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Skipping or rushing the gravel base: This is the number-one reason patios fail. Compacted gravel is what holds everything up. If you skip it or use loose gravel, the patio will sink unevenly within months. Spend the time to compact it properly.

Using the wrong sand: Play sand or beach sand is too fine and does not compact well. Use coarse sand (concrete sand or mason sand). Your supplier can tell you which is which.

Laying bricks on uneven sand: If the sand base is not level, your bricks will never be level. Screed the sand carefully before you start laying bricks. Check it with a long board and a level.

Forgetting to slope for drainage: A flat patio collects water. Slope it slightly away from your house—about 1/8 inch per foot. You can do this by sloping the gravel base or the sand layer as you prepare it.

Leaving gaps too wide between bricks: Gaps wider than 1/8 inch let sand wash out and weeds grow in. Lay bricks snug, and tap them down so they sit evenly.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a brick patio last?

A well-built brick patio lasts 20 to 25 years or longer. The bricks themselves are nearly permanent, but the sand joints may need refreshing every 5 to 10 years as sand washes out. Resealing or replacing sand is a straightforward weekend job.

Can I build a patio on a slope?

Yes, but you will need to level the gravel base to create a flat patio surface, or build the patio in steps. A single-level patio on a slope requires more gravel on the downhill side. For steep slopes, steps or a tiered design works better than a single flat surface.

What if I want to remove the patio later?

Brick patios are straightforward to remove. Pry up the bricks with a flat shovel, sweep the sand back into a pile, and remove the gravel. The ground underneath is usually fine for replanting or building something else. The whole removal takes a few hours for a small patio.

Do I need to seal the bricks?

Sealing is optional. Unsealed bricks weather naturally and develop a patina over time. Sealed bricks stay darker and more uniform-looking but require resealing every few years. If you choose to seal, wait at least a month after building the patio so the sand can fully settle.

Can I use recycled or reclaimed bricks?

Yes, but check that they are solid and not crumbling. Old bricks vary in size, so laying them takes more patience and adjustment. Reclaimed bricks often look beautiful and add character, but expect the job to take longer than with uniform new bricks.