Start with a Level Base and Proper Drainage
A patio fails or succeeds based on what lies underneath it. Before you lay a single stone or pour concrete, you need to excavate the area, compact the soil, and create a slight slope so water runs away from your house rather than pooling or seeping into your foundation.
Mark out your patio area with stakes and string. Excavate to a depth of 4 to 6 inches—this gives you room for a gravel base layer (2 to 3 inches) and your finished surface (pavers, concrete, or stone). Use a level or a straightforward water level (a clear tube filled with water) to check that your excavated base slopes away from the house at a rate of about 1/8 inch per foot of distance. Compact the soil firmly with a hand tamper or power compactor; loose soil will shift under weight and crack your patio.
Spread landscape fabric over the compacted soil to prevent weeds from growing up through your patio. Then add 2 to 3 inches of crushed gravel or stone dust and compact that as well. This layer allows water to drain while providing a stable, level bed for your finished surface.
Key Takeaways
- Excavate 4 to 6 inches deep, compact the soil, and slope the base away from your house at 1/8 inch per foot so water drains properly.
- Add 2 to 3 inches of compacted gravel over landscape fabric to create a stable, draining foundation.
- Concrete patios require a frame (called a form) made of 2-by-4 lumber, staked level and square, before you pour.
- Paver patios need sand between the base and the pavers, and sand swept into the joints after installation to lock them in place.
- Let concrete cure for at least 48 hours and keep foot traffic off it for a week; pavers can be walked on when ready.
Choose Between Concrete, Pavers, or Stone
Your three main options differ in cost, durability, appearance, and the skill required to install them. Concrete is the fastest and cheapest option—a single pour covers large areas quickly and creates a smooth, uniform surface. It does crack over time, especially in freeze-thaw climates, and repairs are visible. PaversNatural stone (flagstone, bluestone, slate) is the most expensive and requires the most skill to install, but it ages beautifully and lasts decades.
For a first-time builder, concrete is the most forgiving. Pavers are next—the work is slower but more straightforward, and mistakes are easier to undo. Natural stone requires experience reading stone thickness and working with irregular shapes.
Building a Concrete Patio
Concrete work happens in stages: building the frame, mixing and pouring, finishing the surface, and curing. Start by building a form—a frame made of 2-by-4 lumber that holds the concrete in place while it sets. Stake the form to the ground with 2-by-4 stakes driven 18 inches into the ground, spaced every 3 to 4 feet. Use a level to make sure the form is perfectly level or slopes slightly away from the house (1/8 inch per foot). The form should be square—measure corner to corner diagonally; both measurements should be equal.
Mix concrete according to the bag instructions, or order ready-mix concrete delivered by truck if your patio is larger than 100 square feet. Pour the concrete into the form and spread it with a shovel, working it into corners and edges. Use a screed board—a straight 2-by-4 laid across the top of the form—to strike off excess concrete and level the surface. Drag the screed board across the form in a sawing motion, moving from one end to the other.
Once the concrete is level, finish the surface. A broom finish (dragging a broom across the surface) creates texture and prevents slipping. A trowel finish (smoothing with a metal trowel) creates a sleek look but is slippery when wet. Let the concrete cure for at least 48 hours before removing the form, and keep foot traffic off it for a full week. In hot weather, mist the concrete with water twice a day to slow curing and prevent cracking.
Installing a Paver Patio
Paver installation is slower than concrete but more flexible. After your gravel base is in place and compacted, spread 1 to 2 inches of sand over it. This sand layer lets you adjust individual pavers up or down to keep them level. Lay pavers in your chosen pattern—running bond (like bricks), herringbone, or a geometric pattern—starting from a corner and working outward. Use a level frequently to check that pavers are even with their neighbors; tap high pavers down with a rubber mallet and add sand under low ones.
Once all pavers are laid, sweep fine sand into the joints between them. This sand locks the pavers together and prevents them from shifting. Sweep multiple times, filling joints as the sand settles. You can walk on pavers when ready after installation, though it takes a few weeks of settling before the surface feels completely stable.
If you want a more permanent installation, you can set pavers in a mortar bed instead of sand, but this requires more skill and makes future repairs harder. For most homeowners, sand is the better choice.
Laying Natural Stone
Flagstone and other natural stone require a different approach because each piece is a different thickness. Lay stones on the gravel base, checking the height of each one with a level. You will need to add or remove sand under each stone individually to bring it level with its neighbors. This process is slow—expect to cover 50 to 100 square feet per day.
Once all stones are level, fill the joints with sand, polymeric sand (which hardens when wet), or mortar. Sand is the easiest and most forgiving. Polymeric sand is more durable and prevents weeds better. Mortar is permanent but requires skill to explore neatly and is difficult to repair.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most common mistake is skipping or rushing the base preparation. A patio built on uncompacted soil or without proper drainage will shift, crack, and fail within a few years. Take time to excavate properly, compact thoroughly, and slope for drainage.
With concrete, pouring in direct sun or extreme heat causes the surface to cure too fast and crack. Pour in early morning or late afternoon if possible, and mist the finished surface with water to slow curing. Do not add extra water to the concrete mix to make it easier to pour—this weakens the final product.
With pavers, the most common error is not using enough sand in the base layer or not sweeping sand into the joints thoroughly enough. Pavers need that sand to stay locked in place. If joints are empty, pavers will shift and create trip hazards.
Finally, do not remove forms from concrete too early or let traffic on it before it has cured. Concrete reaches 70 percent strength in 7 days but continues to harden for 28 days. Removing forms after 48 hours is safe, but keep people and vehicles off for at least a week.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
| Task | Tools | Materials |
|---|---|---|
| Excavation and base prep | Shovel, wheelbarrow, hand tamper or power compactor, level, measuring tape | Landscape fabric, crushed gravel or stone dust |
| Concrete patio | 2-by-4 lumber, stakes, level, circular saw, hammer, concrete mixer or mixing tub, shovel, screed board, broom or trowel | Concrete mix or ready-mix concrete, water |
| Paver patio | Level, rubber mallet, broom, measuring tape, circular saw (for cutting pavers) | Pavers, sand, landscape fabric |
| Stone patio | Level, rubber mallet, broom, chisel (for shaping), measuring tape | Flagstone or natural stone, sand or polymeric sand |
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a patio take to build?
A small concrete patio (100 to 200 square feet) takes one day to pour and finish, plus a week of curing before use. A paver patio of the same size takes three to five days to lay. Natural stone is slowest—expect one to two weeks for 200 square feet. Most of the time is spent on base preparation, not the finished surface.
Can I build a patio on a slope?
Yes, but you will need to either build steps or create a terraced design. A slope steeper than 1/8 inch per foot (which is the drainage slope) makes it difficult to keep pavers or concrete level. For steep slopes, consider building a retaining wall to create a level platform, then building the patio on top.
What is the best time of year to build a patio?
Spring and fall are ideal—temperatures are moderate and you avoid the extreme heat of summer (which causes concrete to cure too fast and crack) and the cold of winter (which prevents concrete from curing properly). If you must pour concrete in summer, do it early in the morning and mist the surface frequently.
Do I need a permit to build a patio?
Most municipalities do not require permits for small residential patios, but some do, especially if the patio is large or close to property lines. Check with your local building department before you start. A permit is usually inexpensive and the inspection is quick.
How do I repair cracks in a concrete patio?
Small cracks (less than 1/4 inch wide) can be filled with concrete caulk or a concrete patching compound. Clean the crack with a wire brush, explore the filler, and smooth it level. For larger cracks or structural damage, the patio may need to be replaced or a professional concrete contractor consulted.