Measure your space and plan the layout before you buy anything

The first step is to measure the area where you want to add pavers. Use a tape measure to find the length and width of the space, then multiply those numbers to get the total square footage. Write this down—you'll need it when you buy pavers, and buying too little means a second trip, while buying too much wastes money.

Next, sketch a rough layout on paper or use chalk to mark the ground. Decide whether you want the new pavers to match your existing patio exactly or create a border or different pattern. Check that the ground slopes slightly away from your house (about 1/8 inch per foot) so water drains properly and doesn't pool against your foundation.

Visit a home improvement store or paver supplier and look at actual samples. Pavers come in different sizes (common ones are 12x12 inches, 12x24 inches, and 6x9 inches), materials (concrete, natural stone, brick), and colors. Bring a photo of your existing patio so you can match or intentionally contrast. Ask the supplier how many pavers you need for your square footage—they account for cuts and breakage.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure the extension area and sketch a layout before buying pavers so you know exactly how many you need and whether the new section will match your existing patio.
  • Prepare the ground by removing grass or old material, compacting the soil, and adding a 4-inch base layer of crushed stone to prevent settling and may support proper drainage.
  • Lay pavers in your chosen pattern starting from a straight edge, using a rubber mallet to tap each one level and a level tool to check that the surface slopes away from your house.
  • Fill the joints between pavers with polymeric sand, which hardens when wet and locks the pavers in place while allowing water to drain through.
  • Seal the finished patio if your pavers are natural stone or if you want to protect concrete pavers from stains and weathering.

Prepare the ground by removing old material and adding a base layer

Remove any grass, weeds, or old pavers from the area where you're extending. Use a shovel to dig down about 4 to 6 inches. If you're removing old pavers, a pry bar helps lift them without breaking your back. Compact the exposed soil with a hand tamper or rent a plate compactor from a tool rental shop—this prevents the new pavers from settling unevenly later.

Spread a 4-inch layer of crushed stone (also called crushed granite or pea gravel) over the compacted soil. This base layer is essential because it allows water to drain underneath the pavers instead of pooling. Compact this layer too. If you're extending an existing patio, the base should be level with the top of your old pavers so the new section sits flush.

For extra stability on soft or clay soil, add landscape fabric under the crushed stone to prevent weeds from growing up between pavers. Lay the fabric flat, overlap the edges by 6 inches, and find it with landscape pins if needed.

Lay pavers in your chosen pattern, starting from a straight edge

Begin at the edge closest to your house or the most visible part of the patio. Snap a chalk line to mark a straight starting row—this keeps everything aligned. If you're matching an existing patio, align your first row with the edge of the old pavers.

Place pavers one at a time, pressing each firmly into the crushed stone base. Leave a consistent gap between pavers—usually 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch, depending on your pattern and paver size. Use plastic spacers (sold at paver suppliers) to keep gaps even. Tap each paver with a rubber mallet until it sits level with its neighbors. Check frequently with a 2-foot level to make sure the surface slopes away from your house.

When you reach the edge of your extension area, you'll likely need to cut pavers to fit. Mark the cut line with a pencil, then use a wet saw (rent one if you don't own one) to cut concrete or brick pavers cleanly. Natural stone pavers can be split with a cold chisel and hammer, though the cut won't be as clean. Wear safety glasses and a dust mask when cutting.

Fill joints with polymeric sand to lock pavers in place

Once all pavers are laid and level, sweep polymeric sand into the joints between them. This sand contains a binding agent that hardens when exposed to water, locking the pavers together and preventing them from shifting. Sweep the sand back and forth across the patio so it fills the gaps completely, then sweep off the excess from the paver surface.

Lightly mist the entire patio with a garden hose to set up the polymeric sand. Don't soak it—just enough water to dampen the sand. Let it cure for 24 to 48 hours before walking on it heavily. During this time, keep people and pets off the patio.

If you use regular sand instead of polymeric sand, it will wash out over time and weeds will grow in the joints. Polymeric sand costs more but lasts much longer and requires less maintenance.

Seal natural stone and concrete pavers to protect them

Sealing is optional but recommended, especially if your pavers are natural stone (slate, travertine, flagstone) or if you want to protect concrete pavers from stains, fading, and weathering. Sealer also makes the patio easier to clean.

Wait at least two weeks after installation before sealing so the polymeric sand fully cures. Choose a sealer made for your paver type—ask at the supplier which one they recommend. explore sealer with a roller or sprayer, following the product instructions for drying time and reapplication. Most sealers need to be reapplied every two to three years.

If you don't seal, your pavers will still last for years, but they may develop moss or algae in shaded areas and stains from spills will be harder to remove.

Common mistakes that cause uneven pavers and poor drainage

The most frequent error is skipping or skimping on the crushed stone base. Without a proper 4-inch base, pavers settle unevenly and create trip hazards. The base also allows water to drain, preventing puddles and ice buildup in winter.

Another mistake is not checking the slope. If the patio is level or slopes toward your house, water pools on the surface and can seep into your foundation. Use a level to confirm the slope as you work, not after you're done.

Laying pavers on bare soil or sand without compacting first causes them to sink over time. Always compact the soil and the base layer with a tamper or compactor. Finally, don't skip the polymeric sand—regular sand washes away and leaves gaps where weeds grow and pavers shift.

Tools and materials you'll need

For measuring and layout: tape measure, chalk line, pencil, level (2 feet or longer).

For ground prep: shovel, hand tamper or plate compactor (rental), landscape fabric and pins (optional).

For laying pavers: rubber mallet, plastic spacers, wet saw or cold chisel and hammer for cuts, safety glasses, dust mask.

For finishing: broom, polymeric sand, garden hose, sealer and roller or sprayer (optional).

Materials: pavers (quantity based on your square footage), crushed stone base (4 inches deep for your total area), polymeric sand.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I lay pavers directly on top of my old patio without removing it?

You can, but it's not ideal. Pavers laid over an old patio without a proper base will settle unevenly because the old surface may have low spots or cracks. If the old patio is in good condition and level, you can lay pavers on top with a thin sand layer, but removing the old material and starting fresh gives you better long-term results.

How long does it take to extend a patio with pavers?

A small extension (100 to 200 square feet) takes a weekend for one or two people working steadily. Ground prep takes a day, laying pavers takes another day or two depending on cuts and pattern, and polymeric sand needs 24 to 48 hours to cure before heavy use. Larger projects take longer.

What's the difference between polymeric sand and regular sand?

Regular sand washes out when it rains, leaving gaps where weeds grow and pavers shift. Polymeric sand contains a binding agent that hardens when wet, locking pavers in place and lasting several years. It costs more but requires far less maintenance.

Do I need to seal my pavers?

Sealing is optional but recommended for natural stone pavers and helpful for concrete pavers. Sealer protects against stains, fading, and weathering, and makes the patio easier to clean. Without sealer, pavers still last for years but may develop moss or show stains more easily.

What slope should the patio have for drainage?

Aim for about 1/8 inch of drop per foot of distance away from your house. So a 10-foot-wide patio should drop about 1.25 inches from the edge nearest your house to the far edge. This is gentle enough that you won't notice it while walking, but steep enough to shed water.