The basic approach: plan the route, find the supports, string the wire
Hanging patio lights comes down to three steps: deciding where the lights will run, installing the hardware that holds them up, and stringing the cable between those points. Most people use one of two methods — either draping lights between fixed posts or trees, or running them along the edge of a roof or pergola. The method you choose depends on what structures you already have and how much new hardware you want to install.
The lights themselves plug into an outdoor outlet, so your first decision is where that outlet is and how far the lights can reach. Standard outdoor extension cords come in 25, 50, and 100-foot lengths. If your outlet is far from where you want the lights, you may need to run the cord along the ground (secured with clips) or hire an electrician to install a new outlet closer to the patio.
Before you buy anything, walk the route where you want the lights to hang and measure the distance. Note where you'll attach the cable at each end and any intermediate points. This measurement tells you how much cable you need and what hardware will support it.
Key Takeaways
- Patio lights need a power source within reach of a standard extension cord, so locate your outdoor outlet before planning the route.
- The cable must be supported at both ends and at any point more than 12 feet apart, using eye bolts, lag bolts, or hooks screwed into solid wood or masonry.
- Droop the cable in a gentle curve (called a catenary) rather than pulling it tight, so the weight of the lights does not strain the anchor points.
- Use outdoor-rated cable, hardware, and extension cords rated for wet conditions, and keep the plug end elevated so water does not pool in the outlet.
- Test the lights before final installation and inspect the cable and connections once a season for damage or corrosion.
Choosing anchor points and hardware
Your anchor points are the structures where the cable will attach. Common choices are fence posts, trees, the corners of a house or garage, pergola beams, or dedicated posts you install for this purpose. The anchor must be solid — a thin vinyl fence or a young sapling will not hold the weight of strung lights and cable.
For wood structures (posts, beams, tree branches), use lag bolts with eye loops or screw-in eye bolts. Lag bolts are stronger and better for heavy loads; eye bolts are easier to install if you already have a drill. Drill a pilot hole first (slightly smaller than the bolt diameter) to avoid splitting the wood. For masonry or brick, use concrete anchors with eye bolts — drill the hole to the anchor's specified size, tap the anchor in, and screw the eye bolt into it.
Install the hardware at a height that looks balanced — usually 8 to 10 feet high on a house or tall post, and at the natural height of a tree branch. Make sure the hardware is rated for outdoor use and can handle the weight. A typical string of 50 patio lights weighs 2 to 4 pounds; add the cable weight and you're looking at 5 to 8 pounds total per span.
Running the cable and creating the proper droop
Once your anchor points are installed, measure the distance between them and buy outdoor-rated cable that is at least that length plus 2 feet for slack. Do not pull the cable tight. Instead, create a gentle sag in the middle — this curve (called a catenary) distributes the weight evenly and prevents the cable from snapping or pulling the anchors loose.
A good rule is to sag the cable about 2 to 4 inches for every 10 feet of span. So if you're running lights 20 feet between two posts, the middle of the cable should hang 4 to 8 inches lower than the anchor points. This looks intentional and attractive, not slack.
Attach the cable to the eye bolts using cable clamps (also called U-bolt clamps) or carabiners rated for the cable diameter. Tighten the clamps firmly but do not over-tighten, which can damage the cable. Leave a small loop of cable at each end so you can adjust the tension later if needed.
Securing the light sockets to the cable
Patio light strings come with sockets spaced 12 inches apart (or sometimes 24 inches). Each socket has a clip or bracket that wraps around the cable. Slide the sockets along the cable to space them evenly, then tighten the clips. Do not space them unevenly or bunch them — uneven spacing looks sloppy and can cause the cable to sag more in some places.
If you're using a long run of lights (more than 50 feet), you may need to connect multiple strings end-to-end. Use outdoor-rated connectors designed for patio lights, not regular extension cord connectors. These are weatherproof and designed to handle the small gauge wire in light strings.
Before you install the bulbs, test the entire string with the power on to make sure all sockets work. A dead socket now is easier to replace than after you've hung everything. Once you've confirmed the lights work, install the bulbs and turn the system on to see how it looks.
Powering the lights safely
Patio lights must plug into an outdoor outlet protected by a GFCI breaker (ground fault circuit interrupter). This breaker cuts power when ready if it detects a short circuit, which prevents electrocution. Most modern homes have GFCI outlets on the exterior; if yours does not, ask an electrician to install one.
Run the extension cord along the ground or up the side of the house, securing it with outdoor clips every 3 to 4 feet so it does not become a tripping hazard. Keep the plug end elevated — do not let it sit on the ground where water can pool in the outlet. If the outlet is low, use a weatherproof outlet cover that allows the plug to stay connected while protecting the opening.
Use an extension cord rated for outdoor use (usually marked "W" or "outdoor" on the jacket). Indoor cords deteriorate quickly in sun and rain. If the cord will be in direct sunlight, choose one with UV-resistant insulation.
Maintenance and seasonal care
Once a month during the season, walk the line and check for loose clips, damaged cable, or corroded connections. Tighten any clips that have shifted and look for places where the cable is rubbing against a sharp edge (which can wear through the insulation).
At the end of the season, turn off the lights and unplug the system. If you live in a cold climate, consider taking down the lights to prevent ice buildup on the cable, which adds weight and can snap it. If you leave them up, inspect the cable after heavy snow or ice storms.
Check the bulbs and sockets for corrosion, especially if you live near the ocean or in a humid climate. Replace any corroded sockets before the next season. Store the lights indoors in a dry place, coiled loosely so the cable does not kink.
When to call an electrician
If your outdoor outlet is far from where you want the lights (more than 100 feet), or if you do not have an outdoor outlet at all, hire an electrician to install one. Running a long extension cord across the yard is a tripping hazard and can damage the cord.
If you're unsure whether your outlet is GFCI-protected, an electrician can test it and install protection if needed. This is a quick job and worth the cost for safety.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I hang patio lights on a vinyl fence?
Vinyl fences are too flexible and will sag under the weight of the cable and lights. Use a solid wood fence post, a tree, or a dedicated post instead. If you have a vinyl fence, you can install a separate wooden post next to it specifically for the lights.
What happens if it rains while the lights are on?
The lights are designed to stay on in rain as long as they are plugged into a GFCI outlet. The GFCI will cut power if water reaches the electrical connections inside a socket. Keep the plug end of the extension cord elevated and covered so water does not pool in the outlet itself.
How do I know if my cable is sagging too much?
A sag of 2 to 4 inches per 10 feet of span is normal and attractive. If the cable sags more than that, it may be overloaded or the anchors may be pulling loose. Check that all clips are tight and that you have not added more lights than the cable is rated for.
Can I leave the lights up year-round?
Yes, if the cable and sockets are rated for outdoor use and you inspect them monthly. In cold climates, ice buildup on the cable can add significant weight, so consider taking them down in winter. In mild climates, they can stay up indefinitely with regular maintenance.
What's the difference between string lights and patio lights?
String lights (also called bistro lights or café lights) have larger, more decorative bulbs and are designed to be seen from a distance. Patio lights have smaller bulbs and are usually meant to provide ambient light. Both hang the same way; the choice is aesthetic.