Lay a Foundation Before You Set Any Bricks
A patio made of bricks will last only as long as what sits underneath it. Before you place a single brick, you need to prepare the ground with a base layer of compacted soil and gravel, then add a layer of sand on top. This foundation prevents bricks from sinking unevenly, stops water from pooling underneath, and keeps weeds from growing through the gaps.
Start by marking out your patio area with stakes and string. Dig down 4 to 6 inches—this depth accounts for the brick itself (usually 2.25 inches), the sand layer (1 inch), and the gravel base (2 to 3 inches). Remove all grass, roots, and loose soil. Compact the bare earth with a hand tamper or plate compactor, pressing down firmly every few inches until the ground feels solid and does not give way under your weight.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of gravel over the compacted soil and compact it the same way. Then add 1 inch of coarse sand on top of the gravel. Rake the sand level, but do not compact it—the bricks will settle into it slightly as you work, and you want that give.
Key Takeaways
- Dig down 4 to 6 inches total and compact the soil, then add 2 to 3 inches of gravel and 1 inch of sand before laying any bricks.
- Lay bricks in your chosen pattern (running bond, herringbone, or basket weave are common) starting from one corner and working outward, tapping each brick level with a rubber mallet.
- Use a level frequently to catch high or low spots before you lay more than a few rows, because fixing them later is much harder.
- Fill the gaps between bricks with sand, sweep it level, then water the patio lightly so the sand settles into the joints.
- Edging boards or a concrete border around the perimeter keep bricks from shifting outward over time.
Choose Your Brick Pattern and Start in a Corner
The pattern you choose affects how stable the patio is and how it looks. Running bond (bricks laid end-to-end in staggered rows, like a brick wall) is the easiest for beginners and very strong. Herringbone (bricks laid at 45-degree angles in a zigzag) looks striking but uses more cuts. Basket weave (pairs of bricks laid perpendicular to each other) is straightforward and forgiving.
Pick the corner where you want to start—usually the lowest corner of your patio, so water drains away from it. Lay your first brick on the sand, press it down firmly, and tap it with a rubber mallet until it sits level. Use a 2-foot level to check both directions (front-to-back and side-to-side). The brick should not rock or tilt.
Lay the second brick next to the first, leaving a gap of about 0.25 inch (roughly the thickness of a pencil). Tap it level. Continue laying bricks in your chosen pattern, checking the level every 3 to 4 bricks. If a brick sits too high, tap it harder. If it sits too low, lift it out, add a pinch of sand underneath, and reset it.
Keep Bricks Level as You Work Outward
The most common mistake is laying bricks without checking the level frequently enough. By the time you notice a brick is too high or too low, you have already laid 10 more on top of it, and removing them is slow and frustrating. Check the level after every few bricks, and check across longer distances (3 to 4 feet) every 10 to 15 bricks to catch a gradual slope before it becomes a problem.
If you notice a section is sloping, stop and fix it before you go further. Lift out the bricks in that area, adjust the sand underneath, and reset them. This takes 10 minutes now and saves you an hour of rework later.
As you lay bricks, you will need to cut some to fit the edges. Mark the brick with a pencil where you want the cut, score it deeply with a brick chisel and hammer, then tap the chisel sharply to break it. Wear safety glasses—chips fly. If you have many cuts to make, a wet saw (which you can rent) is faster and cleaner.
Install Edging to Hold Bricks in Place
Without edging, bricks at the perimeter will shift outward over time as people walk on the patio and the ground settles. Install edging before you fill the joints with sand.
The simplest edging is a pressure-treated 2-by-4 board laid flat along the outside edge of the patio, held in place with landscape spikes driven through it into the ground every 2 feet. Alternatively, use plastic or metal edging strips (sold at home centers), which snap together and stake into the ground. Concrete edging is permanent but requires pouring and setting time.
Lay the edging flush with the top of the bricks so it does not create a trip hazard. If you use a board, make sure it is level along its length.
Fill Joints with Sand and Water the Patio
Once all bricks are laid and level, spread coarse sand over the entire patio surface. Use a broom to sweep the sand into the gaps between bricks, working diagonally across the patio so the sand fills the joints completely. Sweep back and forth until no gaps are visible and the sand is level with the brick surface.
Water the patio lightly with a garden hose on a gentle setting. The water causes the sand to settle deeper into the joints. After the patio dries (usually a few hours), sweep more sand into any gaps that have opened up. Water again. Repeat this process one more time to may support the joints are fully packed.
Do not use a pressure washer on a new patio for at least a week—the sand needs time to set, and high pressure will blast it out of the joints.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Skipping the base layer is the biggest error. Bricks laid directly on soil will sink unevenly and crack within a year. Always compact the soil, add gravel, and add sand.
Laying bricks too close together (less than 0.25 inch apart) makes it hard to fill the joints and can cause bricks to crack as the ground shifts. Leaving gaps wider than 0.5 inch looks sloppy and lets weeds grow through.
Not checking the level often enough leads to a wavy, uneven patio that looks wrong and drains poorly. Stop and check every few bricks, especially if you are working fast.
Forgetting to install edging means the perimeter bricks will shift outward within a season or two, especially if people walk on the edges. Edging is not optional.
Maintenance After Installation
A brick patio needs very little upkeep if it is built correctly. Sweep it regularly to remove leaves and debris. If weeds grow between bricks, pull them by hand or spray them with a weed killer made for patios (test it on a hidden spot first). Every few years, you may need to add more sand to the joints if some has washed away.
If a brick cracks or breaks, you can replace it. Chisel out the old brick and sand, set a new brick in its place, and fill the joints with sand. The repair will be visible at first but will blend in over time.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to lay a brick patio?
A 10-by-12-foot patio (120 square feet) typically takes one person 2 to 3 days of work, including base preparation. Larger patios take proportionally longer. Working with a helper speeds things up by about 30 percent.
Can I lay bricks on top of existing concrete?
Yes, but only if the concrete is in good condition (no large cracks or heaving). Sweep it clean, lay landscape fabric over it to prevent weeds, then spread 1 inch of sand and lay bricks on top. You skip the gravel layer because the concrete provides the base.
What kind of sand should I use?
Use coarse sand or concrete sand, not play sand or fine sand. Coarse sand compacts better and drains water instead of holding it. Fine sand turns to mud when wet and does not hold bricks in place as well.
Do I need to seal the bricks?
Sealing is optional. It darkens the color and makes the bricks slightly more water-resistant, but it is not necessary for the patio to last. If you seal, wait at least 48 hours after the sand has settled, and reapply every 2 to 3 years.
What should I do if bricks settle unevenly after installation?
Minor settling (less than 0.25 inch) is normal and usually stops after the first year. If a brick settles more than that or creates a trip hazard, lift it out, add sand underneath, and reset it. If settling is widespread, the base layer may not have been compacted enough, and you may need to rebuild that section.