Laying pavers is a weekend project you can do yourself with basic tools

A paver patio starts with a level base, not with the pavers themselves. You dig out the area, compact the soil, add a sand layer, then set each paver in place and fill the gaps. The whole process takes a weekend for a small patio (up to 100 square feet) and follows the same steps whether you use concrete pavers, brick, or stone. The most common mistake is skipping the compaction step—pavers that sit on loose soil will sink unevenly within months.

This guide walks you through the full process in the order you'll actually do it. You'll need a shovel, a level, a rubber mallet, a wheelbarrow, and a broom. Rent a plate compactor from a tool rental shop for about $40 to $60 per day—it's worth every dollar and saves your back.

Key Takeaways

  • The base is more important than the pavers: compact soil, then add 4 inches of sand, then compact again before laying a single paver.
  • Pavers need to slope slightly (about 1/8 inch per foot) so water runs off instead of pooling and freezing in winter.
  • A plate compactor rented for one day costs $40 to $60 and is essential—hand tamping leaves soft spots that cause pavers to sink.
  • Polymeric sand (not regular sand) fills the joints and hardens when wet, keeping pavers from shifting and weeds from growing between them.
  • The entire project takes one weekend for a 10-by-10-foot patio if you prepare the site the day before.

Measure the area and mark the edges

Measure the length and width of your patio in feet, then multiply to get the square footage. This tells you how many pavers to buy. Most pavers are sold by the square foot, so a 10-by-10-foot patio needs 100 square feet of pavers. Add 10 percent extra for cuts and breakage.

Mark the edges with chalk or spray paint. Use a string line and a level to check that your marked area is roughly square—measure corner to corner both ways, and the two diagonal measurements should be within an inch of each other. This step takes 15 minutes and prevents you from discovering halfway through that your patio is lopsided.

Dig out the base and compact the soil

Dig out the marked area to a depth of 5 to 6 inches. This leaves room for 4 inches of sand base plus the thickness of your pavers (usually 2 to 2.5 inches). Remove all grass, roots, and loose soil. The bottom should be firm soil, not topsoil or mulch.

Rent a plate compactor and run it over the entire dug-out area twice, overlapping each pass by half. The soil should feel hard underfoot and not give when you step on it. If you have a small area (under 50 square feet), you can use a hand tamper, but it takes twice as long and leaves soft spots. Compacting soil is the single most important step—pavers on uncompacted soil will sink within a year.

Spread and level the sand base

Pour 4 inches of coarse sand (sometimes called concrete sand or paver base sand) over the compacted soil. Do not use play sand or fine sand—it compacts too much and holds water. Spread it evenly with a shovel, then use a long straight board (a 2-by-4 works well) to screed it flat. Lay the board across the edges of your patio and drag it toward you, filling low spots as you go.

Once the sand is level, run the plate compactor over it twice more. The sand should be firm but not rock-hard. If you step on it and leave a footprint deeper than 1/4 inch, it needs another pass with the compactor.

Set up a slope for water drainage

Water that pools on a patio freezes in winter and cracks the pavers. Create a gentle slope by raising one edge of your patio slightly higher than the other. The slope should be about 1/8 inch per foot—so a 10-foot-wide patio slopes down 1.25 inches from one side to the other. This is barely noticeable to the eye but enough to shed water.

As you lay pavers, check the slope every few rows with a level. Place the level across the width of the patio and tilt it until the bubble sits just off center—that's your 1/8-inch-per-foot slope. If you're laying pavers in a grid pattern, slope them in one direction (usually toward a drain or away from your house). If you're laying them in a herringbone or other pattern, slope them toward one edge.

Lay the pavers in your chosen pattern

Start at one corner and work outward. Lay the first paver on the sand, press it down firmly, and tap it with a rubber mallet until it sits level with its neighbors. Check every paver with a level—it should not rock. If a paver is too high, lift it, remove a bit of sand, and reset it. If it's too low, add sand underneath.

Common patterns are running bond (like bricks in a wall), herringbone (diagonal squares), or a straightforward grid. Running bond uses fewer cuts and is fastest for a first project. Lay pavers in rows, leaving a 1/8-inch gap between each one. You can use plastic spacers (sold at paver suppliers) or just eyeball it—the gap will be filled with sand later.

As you work, step on the pavers you've already laid to make sure they don't shift. If one moves, reset it and tap it down again. Lay all the full pavers first, then cut pavers to fit the edges. Use a wet saw (rent one for $30 to $40 per day) to cut pavers cleanly—a hand saw or angle grinder creates dust and rough edges.

Fill the joints with polymeric sand

Once all pavers are laid, sweep polymeric sand into the joints between them. This sand contains a binder that hardens when wet, locking the pavers in place and preventing weeds from growing between them. Sweep the sand diagonally across the pavers so it fills the gaps, then sweep off the excess.

Mist the entire patio lightly with a garden hose—do not soak it. The water activates the binder in the sand. Let it dry for 24 hours before walking on it heavily. Do not use the patio for at least 48 hours. The polymeric sand will continue to harden over the next week.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I lay pavers on top of existing concrete?

Yes, if the concrete is level and not cracked. Clean the concrete, fill any cracks with concrete filler, and lay 1 inch of sand on top instead of 4 inches. The pavers will be higher than surrounding ground, so plan for a step or a ramp if needed.

What if my patio isn't perfectly level after I finish?

Small dips (under 1/4 inch) are normal and won't cause problems. Larger dips mean the sand base wasn't compacted enough. You can add sand under individual pavers by lifting them and adding more underneath, but if the whole area is uneven, you may need to remove pavers, recompact the base, and reset them.

How long does polymeric sand take to harden?

It hardens enough to walk on after 24 hours and reaches full strength after about a week. Avoid heavy use or watering for the first 48 hours. In very hot weather, it may harden faster; in cool or humid weather, it takes longer.

Do I need to seal pavers after laying them?

Sealing is optional and depends on your paver material. Concrete pavers benefit from sealing to resist stains and weather. Brick and natural stone can be sealed but don't require it. If you seal, wait at least 72 hours after laying and use a sealer made for your paver type.

What's the difference between polymeric sand and regular sand?

Regular sand washes out between pavers when it rains, allowing weeds to grow and pavers to shift. Polymeric sand contains a binder that hardens when wet, staying in place permanently. It costs more but lasts much longer and requires less maintenance.