Laying a brick patio starts with a level base, straight edges, and sand between the bricks

A brick patio is built in layers: compacted soil, a gravel base, sand, the bricks themselves, and more sand brushed into the joints. The work is physical but straightforward—you do not need special skills, only patience and attention to keeping everything level and square. Most homeowners can lay a small patio (8 by 10 feet) in a weekend, though larger projects take longer.

The most common mistake is skipping the base preparation. A patio built on bare soil will sink, crack, and shift within a year. The base holds everything stable. The second mistake is rushing the leveling step—a patio that slopes wrong will puddle and erode. Take time here and the rest goes smoothly.

Key Takeaways

  • Prepare the ground by removing grass and topsoil, then compact the soil with a hand tamper or plate compactor before adding gravel.
  • Lay a 4-inch gravel base, compact it thoroughly, then add 1 inch of sand and level it with a straight edge before placing any bricks.
  • Set bricks in your chosen pattern, tapping each one level with a rubber mallet, and check your work with a level every few bricks.
  • Sweep sand into the joints between bricks, mist the patio with water to settle the sand, and repeat until joints are full.
  • A brick patio will shift slightly over time—this is normal and does not mean the job failed if the base was done correctly.

Measure and mark the patio area

Mark out the exact footprint of your patio using stakes and string. Drive wooden stakes at each corner, pull string tight between them, and check that the corners are square using the 3-4-5 method: measure 3 feet along one side, 4 feet along the adjacent side, and the diagonal between those two points should measure 5 feet. If it does not, adjust the stakes until it does.

Once the outline is square, mark the ground along the string with chalk or spray paint. Remove the string and stakes—you will not need them again until you are checking the final level. The marked area is your work zone.

Remove soil and compact the base

Dig out the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and grass within your marked area. A shovel works for small patios; a sod cutter (which you can rent) is faster for anything larger than 100 square feet. Remove all roots, rocks, and debris. The goal is bare, level soil.

Compact the exposed soil using a hand tamper (a flat metal plate on a handle) for small areas or a plate compactor (also rentable) for larger ones. Tamp in overlapping passes until the soil feels firm and does not give when you step on it. This prevents settling later. Loose soil under a patio will cause the bricks to sink unevenly.

If your soil is very soft or clay-heavy, add 2 inches of coarse gravel, compact it, then proceed. If the soil is already firm and well-draining, move straight to the next step.

Add and level the gravel base

Spread 4 inches of crushed gravel (also called crusher run or compacted base) evenly across the compacted soil. Use a rake to spread it roughly level, then compact it thoroughly with the tamper or plate compactor. This layer is what keeps water from pooling under the patio and prevents frost heave in cold climates.

After compacting, the gravel should be firm and not shift when you walk on it. Compact in overlapping passes, working from one end to the other. A loose gravel base will cause bricks to settle unevenly and create low spots that hold water.

Lay sand and create a level screed

Spread 1 inch of coarse sand (sometimes called mason sand or paver sand) evenly over the compacted gravel. Do not use fine play sand—it compacts too much and holds water. Coarse sand drains well and stays in place.

To level the sand perfectly, use a straight edge: a long, straight board (a 2-by-4 works well) laid across the top of the sand. Drag the board across the sand from one end of the patio to the other, using the gravel base as your guide. This creates a level surface called a screed. Fill low spots with extra sand and screed again. The sand should be smooth and level enough that a marble would not roll across it.

Do not walk on the screeded sand more than necessary—you will disturb the level surface. Work from the edges inward, placing bricks as you go.

Set the bricks in your chosen pattern

Start at one corner and lay bricks in your chosen pattern. Common patterns are running bond (bricks staggered like a wall), herringbone (bricks at 45-degree angles), or straightforward grid (bricks in straight rows). Lay bricks without mortar—they rest on the sand and are held in place by friction and the sand between them.

Place each brick firmly on the sand, then tap it level with a rubber mallet. Check every few bricks with a level to make sure they are not tilting or sinking. If a brick sits too high, lift it, remove a bit of sand, and reset it. If it sits too low, add sand underneath. The tops of all bricks should be at the same height, or slope very slightly (about 1/8 inch per 4 feet) away from any building to shed water.

Work in sections, completing one area before moving to the next. This keeps the sand from drying out and shifting. If you must stop for the day, cover the unfinished sand with plywood to keep it level.

Fill joints with sand and water

Once all bricks are laid and level, sweep coarse sand across the entire patio, working it into the joints between bricks. Use a broom with stiff bristles and sweep in all directions to pack sand into every gap. Sweep multiple times—the sand will settle and you will need to add more.

After sweeping, mist the entire patio lightly with a garden hose on a fine spray setting. Do not flood it—just wet the sand enough to help it settle. Let it dry for an hour, then sweep and mist again. Repeat this process two or three times until the joints are completely full and the sand no longer settles when you mist it.

The sand in the joints locks the bricks together and prevents them from shifting. Without full joints, bricks will move and weeds will grow between them.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to use mortar between bricks?

No. A sand-set patio (bricks on sand with sand joints) is the standard method for patios and is easier than mortared brick. Mortar is permanent and harder to repair. Sand joints allow the patio to shift slightly with frost and settling without cracking.

What if my patio is not perfectly level after I finish?

Small variations (less than 1/4 inch over 10 feet) are normal and do not affect function. If one section is noticeably lower, water will pool there. You can add sand under that section by lifting a few bricks, adding sand, and resetting them. This is easier than trying to fix it before the sand joints are full.

How long does it take for the patio to be ready to use?

You can walk on it when ready after the joints are full. Heavy furniture and vehicles should wait 24 to 48 hours to allow the sand to fully settle. The patio will continue to settle slightly over the first few months—this is normal.

Can I lay a brick patio on top of concrete?

Yes, but only if the concrete is in good condition with no cracks or heaving. Lay sand directly on the concrete, screed it level, and set bricks as usual. The concrete acts as your base layer. If the concrete is cracked or uneven, repair or remove it first.

What should I do if weeds grow between the bricks?

Weeds mean the sand joints are not completely full or have settled. Sweep more sand into the joints and mist again. For existing weeds, pull them by hand or spray with a non-selective herbicide, then refill the joints with sand. Keeping joints full prevents most weed growth.