Laying patio blocks is a project you can do yourself with basic tools and careful preparation
Patio blocks go down in layers: soil preparation, sand base, the blocks themselves, and sand between the joints. The work takes patience more than strength. Most homeowners can lay 50 to 100 square feet in a weekend, depending on block size and how level the ground is. The blocks stay in place through weight and friction, not mortar, so the base matters more than anything else. If your base shifts, your blocks will too.
This guide walks you through the actual steps in order, with the mistakes that cost time and money. You will need a level, a rubber mallet, a shovel, a wheelbarrow, and a tape measure. Rent a plate compactor from a tool rental shop if you have more than 200 square feet—it costs about $40 to $60 per day and saves your back.
Key Takeaways
- The base layer of compacted soil is the foundation of the whole project; if it is not level and firm, blocks will settle unevenly over time.
- Sand goes on top of the compacted soil, then blocks, then sand swept into the joints—never use mortar unless you want a permanent, non-adjustable surface.
- A rubber mallet and a level are your two most important tools; use the mallet to tap blocks down and the level to check every few blocks.
- Blocks laid in a running bond pattern (like bricks) are stronger and look better than a straightforward grid, and they use fewer cut blocks at the edges.
- The whole project takes longer than you think because leveling the base takes longer than laying the blocks.
Prepare and level the ground
Mark out your patio area with string and stakes. Remove grass, weeds, and the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. Dig out any soft spots or clay that holds water. The goal is firm, well-draining soil underneath. If your yard has poor drainage or clay, dig out 2 to 3 more inches and fill it with gravel or crushed stone, then compact that.
Use a long straight board (a 2x4 works) and your level to check the ground as you go. The patio should slope very slightly away from your house—about 1/8 inch per foot—so water runs off instead of pooling. Lay the board across the width of the patio and check it with the level. If one end is higher, remove soil from that side or add soil to the low side, then compact it down with a hand tamper or plate compactor.
Compact the soil firmly. Walk over it, tamp it, or run a plate compactor over it until it feels solid underfoot and does not give when you step on it. Loose soil will settle under the weight of the blocks and people walking on them, and your patio will develop low spots and puddles.
Lay down the sand base
Spread 1 to 1.5 inches of coarse sand or concrete sand evenly over the compacted soil. Do not use fine sand or play sand—they compact too much and hold water. Rake it smooth and level it with your 2x4 and level, the same way you leveled the soil. This layer is what the blocks actually rest on, so it has to be even.
You can use wooden screed boards (2x4s laid on edge) as guides. Lay them parallel to each other, spaced about 8 to 10 feet apart, and level them. Spread sand between them, then drag a straight board across the top to level it. Remove the screed boards and fill in the gaps with sand, then level those sections by hand.
Do not compact the sand. You want it loose enough that the blocks can settle into it slightly as you tap them down. If you compact it, the blocks will be harder to level and may crack if they shift later.
Lay the blocks in a running bond pattern
Start at one corner and lay the first block. Tap it down gently with the rubber mallet until it sits firmly in the sand. Check it with the level in both directions. Lay the next block next to it, leaving a gap of about 1/8 inch (the width of a pencil). Tap it down and level it. The blocks should be at the same height and slope slightly away from the house.
A running bond pattern means each row is offset by half a block width from the row below it, like bricks in a wall. This pattern is stronger than a grid because the joints do not line up. To start the second row, cut a block in half (use a circular saw with a masonry blade or a patio block splitter) and lay the half block first. Then lay full blocks, offset from the first row. Continue this pattern across the patio.
Check your level every 3 to 4 blocks. If a block is too high, tap it down more. If it is too low, lift it out, add a pinch of sand underneath, and tap it back down. Do not try to force a block down if it is stuck—you will crack it. Lift it, add sand, and try again.
At the edges, you will need to cut blocks to fit. Measure the gap, mark the block with a pencil, and cut it with a circular saw and masonry blade or a patio block splitter. Wear a dust mask and eye protection when cutting. Lay the cut blocks the same way as the full ones, level and tapped down.
Fill the joints with sand
Once all the blocks are down and level, sweep coarse sand across the patio so it fills the gaps between blocks. Sweep it in multiple directions so the sand works into the joints. Sweep off the excess sand from the top of the blocks. The sand in the joints locks the blocks together and keeps them from shifting.
Water the patio lightly with a hose. The water will settle the sand in the joints. Let it dry, then sweep more sand into any gaps that opened up. You may need to do this two or three times over the first week as the sand settles.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The biggest mistake is skipping or rushing the base preparation. Blocks laid on uneven or loose soil will settle, crack, and create puddles. Spend the time to level and compact the soil and sand properly. It is the difference between a patio that looks good for years and one that looks bad after one season.
The second mistake is using the wrong sand. Fine sand, play sand, or sand mixed with clay will compact too much and hold water under the blocks. Use coarse sand or concrete sand. Ask for it by name at the landscape supply yard.
The third mistake is not checking the level as you go. Check every few blocks. If you lay 20 blocks and then check, you will have to pull up half of them to fix the ones that are too high or too low. It is faster to check as you go.
Do not use mortar between the blocks unless you want a permanent surface that cannot be adjusted or repaired. Sand-laid blocks can be lifted and reset if one cracks or settles. Mortared blocks cannot.
When to rent a plate compactor
If your patio is larger than 200 square feet or your soil is very soft or clay-heavy, rent a plate compactor. It costs $40 to $60 per day and saves hours of hand-tamping. A plate compactor is a flat, motorized platform that vibrates and compresses soil in one pass. It is much faster and more effective than a hand tamper, especially on larger areas.
Rent it from a tool rental shop, home improvement store, or equipment rental company. Ask for instructions on how to use it—it is straightforward, but you need to know how to start it and how to control the direction. Wear hearing protection; it is loud.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to lay a patio?
A 100-square-foot patio takes one to two days for one person, depending on how level the ground is and whether you have to cut many blocks. Most of the time goes to preparing and leveling the base, not laying the blocks. Laying blocks is the fast part.
Do I need to use mortar between the blocks?
No. Sand-laid blocks stay in place through weight and friction. Mortar is permanent and makes repairs harder. Use sand unless you want a fixed surface that cannot be adjusted. If you do use mortar, the blocks will crack if the ground shifts underneath.
What if the ground is not level to begin with?
Level it before you start. Remove soil from high spots and add soil to low spots, then compact it. Use a long straight board and a level to check as you go. This step takes time but is worth it—a level patio drains better and looks better.
Can I lay patio blocks on top of concrete?
Yes, but the concrete has to be level and in good condition. If it is cracked or uneven, the blocks will follow those cracks and uneven spots. Clean the concrete, lay 1 inch of sand on top, level it, and lay the blocks. You do not need to compact sand on concrete the way you do on soil.
What size blocks should I use?
Common patio blocks are 12 by 12 inches, 12 by 24 inches, or 16 by 16 inches. Larger blocks cover more area faster but are heavier to move and harder to level. Smaller blocks are easier to handle but take longer to lay. For a first project, 12 by 12 inches is a good middle ground.