Laying patio bricks is a project you can do yourself if you prepare the ground properly and work methodically

The difference between a patio that lasts ten years and one that shifts and cracks after two is the base. Patio bricks sit on compacted sand and gravel, not directly on soil. You dig down 4 to 6 inches, lay landscape fabric to stop weeds, add 2 to 3 inches of gravel, compact it hard, then add 1 inch of sand. Only then do you lay the bricks. The work is slow but straightforward — most people can lay 50 to 100 square feet in a weekend.

You will need a shovel, a wheelbarrow, a hand tamper or plate compactor (you can rent a plate compactor for $40 to $60 per day), a level, a rubber mallet, a tape measure, and a circular saw with a masonry blade if you need to cut bricks. The bricks themselves cost $0.50 to $3 each depending on material and region. A 10-by-10-foot patio needs about 100 bricks and takes two to three days of work.

Key Takeaways

  • Dig out 4 to 6 inches of soil, lay landscape fabric, add 2 to 3 inches of compacted gravel, then 1 inch of sand before laying any bricks.
  • Compact the gravel with a hand tamper or rented plate compactor — loose gravel underneath will cause the patio to settle unevenly.
  • Lay bricks in a pattern (running bond, herringbone, or basket weave are common), tap each one level with a rubber mallet, and check your work with a level every few rows.
  • Fill the gaps between bricks with sand, sweep it level, and water it down so the sand settles into the joints.
  • The patio will shift slightly in the first few weeks; add more sand to any low spots and re-level as needed.

Prepare and level the ground

Mark out the area where your patio will go using stakes and string. Measure the corners to make sure they are square — the diagonal measurements should be equal. Dig out the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and remove any roots, rocks, or debris. The ground should be as level as possible at this stage. Use a long straight board and a level to check; if one end is higher, dig it down or fill it in.

Lay landscape fabric over the bare soil to block weeds from growing up through the patio later. Overlap the edges by 6 inches and pin it down with landscape staples or rocks so it does not shift while you work. This step saves you hours of weeding over the next few years.

Add and compact the gravel base

Spread 2 to 3 inches of crushed gravel (also called crusher run or compacted stone) evenly over the landscape fabric. Use a shovel to level it roughly, then compact it hard with a hand tamper or plate compactor. A hand tamper works for small patios but is slow; a rented plate compactor takes 30 minutes for a 100-square-foot area. Compact in overlapping passes until the gravel no longer moves when you step on it.

Check the level again as you compact. The gravel base should slope very slightly — about 1/8 inch per foot — away from any building so water runs off instead of pooling. This is easier to achieve now than after the bricks are down. Compact a second time after checking the slope.

Lay the sand layer and set the first bricks

Spread 1 inch of coarse sand (not fine play sand) evenly over the compacted gravel. Do not compact the sand — the bricks will settle into it as you tap them down. Use a straight board to screed the sand level, dragging it across the surface to create an even plane.

Lay your first row of bricks along a straight edge — a string line or the side of a building works well. Tap each brick down with a rubber mallet until it sits firmly in the sand. Check the level frequently; the bricks should be even with each other and should slope slightly in the same direction as the gravel base. If a brick sits too high, tap it harder; if it sits too low, lift it out, add a pinch of sand underneath, and reset it.

Continue laying bricks in your chosen pattern

Common patterns are running bond (bricks staggered like a brick wall), herringbone (bricks at 45 degrees in a V pattern), or basket weave (alternating pairs of bricks at right angles). Choose your pattern before you start. Lay the second row, then the third, working across the patio. Tap each brick level as you go and check with a level every two or three rows.

If you need to cut a brick to fit an edge, mark the cut line with a pencil, place the brick on a solid surface, and use a circular saw with a masonry blade to cut it. Wear a dust mask and eye protection — masonry dust is silica and damages your lungs. Cut bricks are slower than laying whole ones, so plan your pattern to minimize cuts.

Fill the joints and settle the sand

Once all the bricks are laid, spread coarse sand over the entire patio and sweep it into the gaps between the bricks. Sweep in multiple directions so the sand fills the joints completely. Sweep off the excess sand from the top of the bricks.

Water the patio lightly with a hose — not a hard spray, which will wash the sand out, but a gentle mist. The water helps the sand settle into the joints. Let it dry, then add more sand to any joints that have sunk. Water again and let it dry. The patio will shift slightly over the next few weeks as the sand settles; check it after a week and add sand to any low spots.

Maintain the patio and address settling

In the first month, the sand will compact further and the patio may develop low spots or slight shifts. Walk the patio with a level and mark any areas that are noticeably lower than their neighbors. Lift the bricks in that area, add sand underneath, and reset them. This is normal and does not mean you did the work wrong — it is the sand settling under the weight of foot traffic.

Every year or two, sweep sand into the joints again, especially after winter or heavy rain. Weeds may grow between bricks; pull them by hand or spray them with a weed killer. If the patio develops a low spot that does not settle after a month, it usually means the gravel underneath is not compacted enough — you may need to lift that section and re-compact the base.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I lay patio bricks on dirt without gravel?

No. Bricks laid directly on soil will sink unevenly as the soil compacts and settles. The gravel base distributes weight and prevents water from pooling underneath. Without it, your patio will be uneven and cracked within a year.

What is the difference between running bond and herringbone?

Running bond is simpler — each row is offset by half a brick, like a brick wall. Herringbone is bricks laid at 45 degrees in a V pattern, which looks more formal but requires more cuts at the edges. Basket weave alternates pairs of bricks at right angles. All three are durable; choose based on appearance.

How long does it take for a patio to stop settling?

Most settling happens in the first two to four weeks. You may need to add sand to joints and re-level a few times during that period. After a month, the patio should be stable. If it continues to shift significantly after that, the gravel base may not have been compacted enough.

Do I need to seal patio bricks?

Sealing is optional and depends on the brick type and your climate. Concrete bricks benefit from sealing to prevent staining and water absorption. Clay bricks are naturally durable and do not usually need sealing. If you seal, do it after the patio has settled for a month.

What should I do if a brick cracks after I lay it?

Lift the cracked brick out, set it aside, and replace it with a new one. If cracks appear after the patio is finished, it usually means the base shifted — check the level and add sand underneath if needed. Isolated cracks in individual bricks are rare if the base is solid.