What you need before you start
A patio requires three things before you dig: a location that drains water away from your house, a clear picture of the size and shape you want, and a decision about what material to use. The material choice — concrete, pavers, gravel, or composite decking — determines your budget, the tools you need, and how long the work takes. Most patios are built on a base of compacted soil and gravel, then topped with your chosen surface.
Check your local building codes first. Some areas require a permit for patios larger than a certain size, and some have setback rules that say how far from property lines your patio must sit. Call your city or county building department or check their website; a five-minute call now saves you from tearing out work later. You should also call 811 or your local utility locating service before you dig — they mark underground gas, electric, and water lines for free.
Key Takeaways
- Call 811 before you dig to locate underground utilities, and check your local building codes to see if you need a permit.
- Concrete and pavers are the most durable choices; gravel is cheapest but needs raking and replacement every few years.
- The base layer — compacted soil and gravel — is as important as the top surface and takes up most of the work.
- A patio should slope slightly away from your house so water runs off instead of pooling or seeping into your foundation.
- A small patio (under 100 square feet) can be finished in a weekend; larger ones take several days or more.
Measuring and marking your patio space
Measure the area where your patio will go and mark the corners with stakes and string. Use a tape measure to get the length and width, then check that your corners are square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner — both diagonal measurements should be the same length. If they are not, adjust your stakes until they match.
Mark the perimeter with chalk or spray paint so you can see exactly where you will dig. Step back and look at the shape from your house — does it feel like the right size? A patio should be at least 10 feet deep (the distance from your house) so you have room to sit and move around. If you are building next to a door, make sure the patio surface will be at least one step below the door threshold so water does not run into your house.
Preparing the ground and base layer
Remove grass, weeds, and the top 4 to 6 inches of soil from your marked area. You can use a shovel, a mattock, or rent a small excavator from a tool rental shop if the area is large. Dig out any roots and rocks. The goal is a level surface — use a long straight board and a level to check as you go.
Once the soil is level, add a 4-inch layer of compacted gravel or crushed stone. Spread it evenly, then tamp it down with a hand tamper (a flat metal plate on a handle) or a power compactor. Tamp in overlapping passes until the gravel feels solid underfoot and does not shift when you walk on it. This base layer is what keeps your patio from settling unevenly and cracking.
Check the slope: your patio should drop about 1/8 inch for every foot of distance away from your house. This gentle slope lets water run off instead of pooling. Use a long level and a tape measure to check — place the level on a board running from your house toward the edge, and measure how much the far end is lower than the near end.
Laying concrete or pavers
Concrete is the fastest and cheapest option for large patios. You can pour it yourself if the area is small and rectangular, or hire a concrete contractor for anything larger or more complex. If you pour it yourself, build a wooden frame (called a form) around your marked area using 2-by-4 boards, then mix concrete in a wheelbarrow or rent a concrete mixer. Pour the concrete into the form, spread it with a shovel, and smooth it with a long straight board dragged across the top. Let it cure for at least three days before walking on it.
Pavers — individual stones or bricks — take longer to lay but are easier to repair if one cracks. Lay them on top of your compacted gravel base, fitting them tightly together. You can use sand between the joints or polymeric sand (which hardens when wet). Pavers work well for curved or irregular shapes because you can cut individual stones to fit.
Gravel is the cheapest option and requires no digging or base work beyond leveling the soil. Spread 2 to 3 inches of gravel evenly across your area and rake it smooth. Gravel does not last as long as concrete or pavers — you will need to rake it, top it off with fresh gravel every year or two, and replace it entirely every five to ten years.
Finishing edges and drainage
The edges of your patio should be defined and stable so the surface does not crumble or spread. For concrete, the edge is built into the form. For pavers, install an edge restraint — a plastic or metal border that holds the outer pavers in place. For gravel, a wooden or metal edging keeps the gravel from spilling into the surrounding yard.
Make sure water drains away from your patio and your house. If your yard slopes toward your house, you may need to dig a shallow trench or install a French drain (a gravel-filled trench with a perforated pipe) to redirect water. This is especially important if your patio is close to your foundation.
Tools and materials you will need
| Task | Tools | Materials |
|---|---|---|
| Marking and measuring | Tape measure, stakes, string, chalk or spray paint, level | Stakes, string |
| Digging and grading | Shovel, mattock, wheelbarrow, hand tamper or power compactor | None |
| Base layer | Shovel, wheelbarrow, hand tamper or power compactor, long board, level | Gravel or crushed stone (4 inches deep) |
| Concrete patio | Wheelbarrow or concrete mixer, shovel, long straight board, level, broom (for texture) | Concrete mix, water, 2-by-4 boards for forms, nails or screws |
| Paver patio | Rubber mallet, level, paver saw or wet saw (for cutting), broom | Pavers, sand or polymeric sand, edge restraint |
| Gravel patio | Shovel, wheelbarrow, rake, level | Gravel, edge material (wood or metal) |
Common mistakes to avoid
Skipping the base layer is the most common mistake. A patio without a solid, compacted gravel base will settle unevenly, crack, and shift. The base is invisible once your patio is done, so it is straightforward to rush, but it is the most important part of the job.
Ignoring slope and drainage causes water to pool on your patio and seep toward your house. Even a small slope matters — check it with a level before you pour concrete or lay pavers. If your yard naturally slopes toward your house, you may need to build your patio higher or install drainage.
Pouring concrete in cold weather or rain causes it to cure poorly and crack. Concrete should be poured when the temperature is between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and rain is not expected for at least 24 hours. If you are in a cold climate, wait until spring or early fall.
When to hire a contractor
A small gravel or paver patio on level ground is a realistic DIY project for someone with basic tools and a weekend or two. A concrete patio larger than 200 square feet is harder to do alone — concrete is heavy, and you need to work fast before it hardens. Sloped yards, complex shapes, or drainage problems are best left to a contractor who has the equipment and experience to handle them.
Get quotes from at least two contractors. Ask what is included in the price — site preparation, permits, base layer, surface material, and cleanup — and whether they may provide their work. A contractor should be able to show you photos of past patios and give you references.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a patio cost?
A gravel patio costs $1 to $3 per square foot. Pavers run $8 to $20 per square foot installed. Concrete is $6 to $15 per square foot. Costs vary by region, material quality, and whether you do the work yourself or hire a contractor. A 200-square-foot patio might cost $200 to $400 for gravel, $1,600 to $4,000 for pavers, or $1,200 to $3,000 for concrete.
Can I build a patio on a slope?
Yes, but it requires more work. You will need to level the ground, which may mean removing soil from the high side and adding it to the low side. For steep slopes, you might build a retaining wall or create a tiered patio with steps. A contractor can assess whether your slope is manageable or if you need special drainage.
How long does concrete take to cure?
Concrete is hard enough to walk on after three days, but it continues to harden for up to 28 days. Do not park a car on it or put heavy furniture on it for at least a week. In cold weather, curing takes longer.
What is the best material for a patio?
Concrete is fastest and cheapest. Pavers last longer and are easier to repair. Gravel is the cheapest upfront but needs maintenance. Choose based on your budget, how long you want the patio to last, and how much upkeep you are willing to do.
Do I need a permit?
It depends on your location and the size of your patio. Call your local building department to ask. Many areas do not require a permit for patios under a certain size, but some do. Getting a permit takes time but protects you if there are problems later.