Lay a level base before you set any brick

A brick patio lasts longer and stays flat when the ground underneath is compacted and level. Start by marking out the area with string and stakes, then dig down 4 to 6 inches. Remove grass, roots, and rocks as you go. The depth matters because you need room for a gravel base layer and sand underneath the bricks themselves.

Compact the soil with a hand tamper or plate compactor — you can rent a plate compactor from most tool rental shops for around $40 to $60 a day. Tamp in layers: dig, tamp, check level with a long straightedge, then tamp again. This prevents the patio from sinking unevenly later. Slope the finished surface very slightly (about 1/8 inch per foot) away from your house so water drains off instead of pooling.

Key Takeaways

  • Dig 4 to 6 inches deep, compact the soil, and slope the surface slightly away from your house so water runs off.
  • Lay 2 to 3 inches of gravel, then 1 inch of sand, and tamp each layer before setting bricks.
  • Lay bricks in a running bond or herringbone pattern, leaving 1/4 inch gaps between them for sand to fill.
  • Sweep polymeric sand into the gaps, mist with water, and let it cure for 24 hours before walking on the patio.
  • A small patio (8 by 10 feet) takes a weekend; larger ones take longer and may need two people.

Add gravel and sand layers for drainage and stability

Once the soil is level and compacted, spread 2 to 3 inches of gravel over the entire area. Crushed limestone or pea gravel both work. Tamp this layer down firmly — it creates a drainage base so water doesn't pool under the bricks and cause frost heave in winter. Tamp until the gravel stops moving when you step on it.

On top of the gravel, spread 1 inch of coarse sand. This is the bed where the bricks actually sit. Screed the sand flat by dragging a long board (a 2-by-4 works well) across the surface, using the edges of your frame or border as guides. The sand should be level and smooth, with no high spots or dips. This step determines whether your finished patio will be flat or wavy.

Lay bricks in a pattern that locks them together

The two most common patterns are running bond (bricks laid in offset rows, like a brick wall) and herringbone (bricks laid at 45-degree angles in a V pattern). Running bond is faster for a first-timer. Herringbone looks more finished but uses more bricks and takes longer to lay.

Start at one corner and lay bricks in your chosen pattern, leaving 1/4 inch gaps between each brick. You can use plastic spacers to keep gaps even, or just eyeball it — the gaps don't have to be perfect because sand will fill them. Tap each brick down gently with a rubber mallet so it sits firmly in the sand. Check your level frequently with a straightedge across several bricks. If a brick is too high, tap it down; if it's too low, lift it, add a pinch of sand underneath, and reset it.

As you lay bricks, you will need to cut some to fit the edges. A wet saw with a masonry blade cuts brick cleanly and quickly — rent one for $30 to $50 a day if you don't own one. Measure twice, mark the cut line with a pencil, and let the saw do the work. Wear a dust mask and eye protection.

Fill gaps with polymeric sand to lock everything in place

Once all bricks are laid and level, sweep polymeric sand into the gaps. This is not regular sand — it contains a binder that hardens when wet, locking the bricks together so they don't shift. Sweep it in several directions so it fills the gaps completely. Brush off excess sand from the brick surface.

Mist the entire patio lightly with a garden hose. The water activates the binder in the polymeric sand. Do not soak it — you want the sand damp, not muddy. Let it cure for 24 hours before walking on it. Some products require 48 hours, so check the bag. During this time, keep the patio dry if possible. If rain is forecast, cover it with a tarp.

Tools and materials you will need

For a 100-square-foot patio (roughly 10 by 10 feet), you will need about 500 bricks, 2 cubic yards of gravel, and 1 cubic yard of sand. Bricks cost $0.50 to $2 each depending on quality and color. Gravel and sand are usually sold by the cubic yard and cost $30 to $50 per yard delivered, though prices vary by region.

Essential tools include a shovel, a hand tamper or rented plate compactor, a long straightedge (a 2-by-4 board works), a rubber mallet, a level, a measuring tape, and a broom. If you are cutting bricks, rent a wet saw. Wear work gloves, a dust mask, and eye protection throughout the job.

Common mistakes that cause problems later

Skipping the compaction step is the most common error. Uncompacted soil settles unevenly, and your patio will develop low spots and puddles within a year. Tamp every layer — soil, gravel, and sand. Do not rush this part.

Laying bricks on sand that is too wet or too dry also causes trouble. Sand that is too wet shifts under the brick weight; sand that is too dry doesn't hold the brick steady. The sand should feel slightly damp, like the texture of a wrung-out sponge. If you are laying on a hot day, mist the sand lightly before you start.

Forgetting to slope the surface means water pools on the patio instead of running off. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is barely noticeable to walk on but enough to shed water. Use your level to check this as you go.

When to hire help instead of doing it yourself

A small patio (8 by 10 feet) is a manageable weekend project for one person. Anything larger — 12 by 16 feet or more — goes faster and easier with two people, especially during the brick-laying stage. One person can hold bricks in place while the other taps and levels.

If your yard slopes steeply or has poor drainage, or if you are not confident with the leveling work, hiring a patio contractor may save you from having to tear it out and redo it. Get three quotes and ask each contractor how they handle drainage and what warranty they offer on settling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I lay a brick patio directly on soil without gravel?

No. Gravel provides drainage and prevents frost heave in winter, when water under the patio freezes and pushes the bricks up. Without it, your patio will develop low spots and cracks within a few years. The gravel base is not optional.

What is the difference between polymeric sand and regular sand?

Regular sand washes out of the gaps when it rains, and bricks shift over time. Polymeric sand contains a binder that hardens when wet, locking the bricks in place. It costs more but lasts much longer and keeps the patio stable.

How long does a brick patio last?

A well-built brick patio lasts 25 to 50 years. The bricks themselves outlast most other materials, but the sand and gravel base can settle or wash away if not properly compacted or drained. Maintenance — resealing polymeric sand every few years — extends the life.

Do I need to seal the bricks?

Sealing is optional and depends on the brick type and your climate. Sealer protects against stains and weathering but requires reapplication every 2 to 3 years. If you use it, explore it after the polymeric sand has fully cured.

What if my patio settles unevenly after I finish?

Uneven settling usually means the soil or gravel base was not compacted enough. Small dips (less than 1/4 inch) are normal and usually not a problem. Larger ones may require lifting bricks, adding sand underneath, and resetting them. This is why compaction during the build is so important.