What You Need to Know Before Starting a Paver Patio Remodel
A paver patio remodel means removing the old pavers, preparing the base, and laying new ones. The job takes two to four weeks depending on patio size, and costs between $1,500 and $5,000 for a 12-by-12-foot space, though prices vary by region and paver material. You can do this yourself if you have basic tools and patience, or hire a contractor to handle the heavy work.
The most common reason to remodel is settling or shifting pavers that create trip hazards or puddles. Remodeling also lets you change the pattern, upgrade to better-quality pavers, or fix a poorly built base that's causing drainage problems. Before you start, decide whether you'll remove and reset the existing pavers or replace them entirely—resetting costs less but works only if the pavers are still in good condition.
Key Takeaways
- Removing pavers requires a pry bar and a wheelbarrow, and the old sand base usually needs to be scraped out and replaced with compacted gravel and fresh sand.
- The base layer is the most important part of a lasting patio—it should be 4 to 6 inches of compacted gravel topped with 1 inch of sand, sloped slightly for drainage.
- New pavers are laid in rows or patterns, tapped level with a rubber mallet, and then sand is swept into the joints to lock them in place.
- A patio remodel takes longer than the initial install because you must remove the old surface first, which is the most labor-intensive step.
Removing the Old Pavers and Base
Start by clearing the patio of furniture and debris. Use a pry bar to lift each paver—work from one corner and pry up one edge, then slide the bar underneath and lift. Pavers are heavy (4 to 8 pounds each), so work slowly to avoid back strain. Stack them to the side; you can reuse them if they're not cracked or stained.
Once the pavers are up, scrape out the old sand base with a shovel. This layer compacts over time and often contains weeds, roots, and debris that will cause new pavers to settle unevenly. Scrape down to the gravel layer below. If the gravel is compacted and level, you can reuse it; if it's loose, muddy, or uneven, remove it and start fresh. Haul the old material to a dumpster or arrange a bulk pickup.
Building a Solid Base for New Pavers
A poor base is the reason most patios fail. The base should be 4 to 6 inches of compacted gravel (crushed stone or limestone), topped with 1 inch of sand. Spread the gravel in layers and compact each layer with a hand tamper or plate compactor—rent a plate compactor from a tool rental shop for $40 to $60 per day if your patio is larger than 100 square feet.
Check the slope as you build. The patio should slope away from your house at a rate of 1 inch per 8 feet so water drains and doesn't pool. Use a 4-foot level and a tape measure to check this as you go. Once the gravel is compacted and sloped, spread 1 inch of sand on top and level it with a straight board dragged across the surface. Do not compact the sand—pavers should sit on loose sand so they can be adjusted.
Laying New Pavers in a Pattern
Start at one corner and lay pavers in your chosen pattern—running bond (offset rows), herringbone, or basket weave are the most common. Leave a consistent gap between pavers, usually 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Use plastic spacers if you want uniform joints, or eyeball it if you're comfortable with slight variation.
Tap each paver with a rubber mallet to set it into the sand. Check frequently with a level to make sure pavers are even with their neighbors. If a paver sits too high, lift it, remove some sand, and reset it. If it's too low, add sand underneath. Work in sections so you can step on pavers you've already laid without disturbing them.
Filling Joints and Finishing the Patio
Once all pavers are laid and level, sweep polymeric sand (also called polymeric joint sand) into the joints. This sand contains a binder that hardens when wet, locking the pavers together and preventing weeds from growing between them. Sweep it in multiple directions to fill the joints completely, then use a leaf blower to remove excess sand from the surface.
Mist the patio lightly with a garden hose to set up the polymeric sand. Do not soak it—just a light spray. The sand will harden over 24 to 48 hours. Avoid walking on the patio during this time if possible. Once it's cured, you can place furniture back and use the patio normally.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
| Item | Purpose | Rent or Buy |
|---|---|---|
| Pry bar | Lift old pavers | Buy ($15–$30) |
| Shovel | Remove sand and gravel | Buy ($20–$40) |
| Hand tamper or plate compactor | Compact gravel base | Rent ($40–$60/day) or buy hand tamper ($50–$100) |
| 4-foot level | Check slope and paver height | Buy ($20–$50) |
| Rubber mallet | Tap pavers into place | Buy ($15–$30) |
| Straight board (2x4 or 2x6) | Level sand base | Buy or borrow ($10–$20) |
| Polymeric sand | Fill joints between pavers | Buy ($30–$60 per 50-lb bag) |
| Gravel and sand | Build new base | Buy (varies by region; typically $30–$80 per ton) |
When to Hire a Contractor Instead
Removing old pavers and building a proper base is physically demanding. If your patio is larger than 200 square feet, or if you have mobility issues or back problems, hiring a contractor makes sense. A contractor will also have a plate compactor and can finish the job in one to two weeks instead of three to four.
Get three quotes before hiring. Ask each contractor whether they remove and haul the old material, whether they replace the entire base or reuse existing gravel, and what warranty they offer on the work. A good contractor will may provide that pavers won't settle or shift for at least one year.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I lay new pavers over the old ones without removing them?
No. Laying pavers over an old, settled base will cause the new pavers to settle and shift within months. The old base must be removed and rebuilt properly. Skipping this step is the most common reason patio remodels fail.
What's the difference between polymeric sand and regular sand?
Regular sand washes out between pavers when it rains, allowing weeds to grow and pavers to shift. Polymeric sand contains a binder that hardens when wet, locking pavers in place and preventing weeds. It costs more but lasts much longer—typically five to ten years before needing replacement.
How long does a remodeled paver patio last?
A properly built patio with a solid gravel base, correct slope, and polymeric sand joints can last 15 to 20 years. The pavers themselves last longer, but the sand and base may need maintenance or replacement after 10 years depending on climate and foot traffic.
Do I need to seal new pavers?
Sealing is optional and depends on the paver material. Concrete pavers benefit from sealing to resist stains and fading, while natural stone pavers like travertine or slate should be sealed to prevent water damage. Sealing costs $100 to $300 for a 12-by-12-foot patio and lasts two to three years.
What if my patio has low spots that collect water?
Low spots mean the base wasn't sloped correctly or has settled. You'll need to remove pavers in that area, add sand to raise the base, and reset the pavers. If the entire patio has drainage problems, the base may need to be rebuilt with better gravel compaction and a steeper slope away from your house.