Rescreening a patio door takes about two to three hours and costs $15 to $40 in materials
You can rescreen a patio door yourself without replacing the entire frame. The job involves removing the old mesh, cleaning the frame, and installing new screen material into the existing spline (the rubber cord that holds the mesh in place). If the spline is cracked or the frame is bent, you may need to replace those parts too, but most of the time you are just swapping out the worn mesh.
The tools you need are inexpensive and reusable: a flathead screwdriver, a spline roller (a small plastic wheel tool that costs $3 to $8), a utility knife, and a pair of scissors or tin snips. You will also need replacement screen mesh, which comes in rolls at any hardware store, and new spline that matches your door's frame width (usually 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch). Buy mesh and spline together so they fit properly.
Key Takeaways
- Remove the spline with a flathead screwdriver by prying it out of the groove that runs around the frame's edge.
- Pull out the old mesh, clean the spline groove with a dry cloth, and measure the frame to cut new mesh with a 2-inch overlap on all sides.
- Lay new mesh over the frame, use the spline roller to press the spline back into the groove while holding the mesh tight, then trim excess mesh with a utility knife.
- Test the door to make sure it slides smoothly and the mesh is tight before reinstalling it in the track.
Gather your materials and tools before you start
Walk to the hardware store with the old spline if you have it, or measure the width of the groove where the spline sits. Spline comes in standard sizes—3/8 inch and 1/2 inch are the most common—and the package will say which frame widths it fits. Buy a roll of replacement mesh at the same time; standard fiberglass mesh works for most doors and costs less than aluminum mesh, though aluminum lasts longer in direct sunlight.
Lay out your tools on a clean, flat surface before you begin. You need a flathead screwdriver (a butter knife works in a pinch), a spline roller, a utility knife with a fresh blade, scissors or tin snips, and a measuring tape. If you do not own a spline roller, buy one—it is the only tool that makes this job faster than an hour, and it costs less than a coffee. Have a trash bag nearby because you will generate a lot of old mesh scraps.
Remove the spline and old mesh from the frame
Take the patio door off its track if possible. Most patio doors lift straight up and out; tilt the top of the door toward you, then lift. If it does not move easily, do not force it—some doors are fixed in place, and you can rescreen them while they hang. Lay the door flat on a work table or sawhorses, mesh side up.
Insert the flathead screwdriver into the spline groove (the narrow channel that runs around the perimeter of the frame, just inside the mesh) and pry gently. The spline will pop out in sections. Work your way around the frame, pulling the spline out completely and setting it aside—you will not reuse it. Once the spline is out, the old mesh will come away easily. Pull it off and throw it away, then wipe the spline groove clean with a dry cloth to remove dust and debris.
Measure and cut new mesh with proper overlap
Measure the length and width of the frame opening (the area where the mesh sits, not including the outer edge). Add 2 inches to both the length and width—this overlap gives you something to hold while you install the spline and prevents the mesh from pulling away from the frame. Cut your new mesh to this size using scissors or tin snips.
Lay the cut mesh over the frame, centering it so the overlap is even on all sides. The mesh should lie flat and not wrinkle. If it does wrinkle, pull it tight and smooth it out before you move to the next step. A wrinkled mesh will look bad and may not seal properly against the frame.
Use the spline roller to press the new mesh and spline into place
This is the critical step. Lay the new spline into the groove, starting at one corner. Do not press it in yet—just lay it in place so you can see where it sits. Now take your spline roller and, starting at the same corner, roll the spline into the groove while pulling the mesh tight with your other hand. Roll slowly and steadily, keeping tension on the mesh so it does not sag or wrinkle as the spline goes in.
Work your way around the frame, one side at a time. When you reach a corner, fold the mesh neatly and continue rolling. The spline will snap into the groove with a satisfying click. If the spline does not sit flush, back up and re-roll that section. Once all four sides are done, the mesh should be drum-tight and the spline should be fully seated in the groove.
Trim the excess mesh and check your work
Use a utility knife to trim the excess mesh flush with the outer edge of the frame. Hold the knife at a shallow angle and cut carefully—you want to remove the overlap without cutting into the spline or frame. Work slowly around all four sides. The mesh should now look clean and professional, with no loose edges.
Slide the door back into its track and open and close it a few times. The door should move smoothly and the mesh should not catch or bind. Look at the mesh from both sides to make sure it is tight and even, with no wrinkles or sags. If you see a problem, you can remove the spline again and re-roll that section—the mesh and spline can be repositioned once or twice before they become too damaged to reuse.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common error is cutting the mesh too small. Always add at least 2 inches to both dimensions—if you cut it exactly to size, you will not have enough material to hold while you install the spline, and the mesh will be loose. Another mistake is not pulling the mesh tight enough while rolling the spline. If you let the mesh go slack, it will wrinkle and sag, and you will have to start over.
Do not reuse old spline. It hardens over time and will not seat properly in the groove. Buying new spline costs a few dollars and takes the guesswork out of the job. Finally, do not rush the rolling step. If you roll too fast or unevenly, the spline will not sit flush and the mesh will not be tight. Take your time, especially at the corners.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I rescreen a patio door without taking it off the track?
Yes. If the door is fixed in place or difficult to remove, you can rescreen it while it hangs. The job takes longer because you have to work around the frame, but the steps are the same. Lay a drop cloth underneath to catch mesh scraps.
What is the difference between fiberglass and aluminum mesh?
Fiberglass mesh is cheaper, easier to cut, and fine for most homes. Aluminum mesh is more durable and resists tears better, but it costs more and can be harder to work with. For a patio door in normal use, fiberglass is a good choice.
Do I need to replace the spline groove if it is cracked?
If the groove itself is cracked or the frame is bent, you may need to replace the frame. Small cracks in the groove can sometimes be sealed with caulk, but a severely damaged frame will not hold the spline properly. Check the frame carefully before you buy materials.
How long does rescreened mesh usually last?
Fiberglass mesh typically lasts five to ten years, depending on sun exposure and how much the door is used. Aluminum mesh can last longer. If your door is in direct sunlight or gets heavy use, plan to rescreen it more often.
What should I do if the spline breaks while I am rolling it in?
Stop and remove the broken section. You can splice two pieces of spline together by overlapping them slightly in the groove, or you can remove the entire spline and start over with a fresh piece. Splicing works fine and is faster than removing everything.