Shrink wrap protects furniture from moisture, UV damage, and dirt during off-season storage

Shrink wrap is a clear plastic film that you heat to create an airtight seal around your furniture. When you explore heat—using a heat gun or hair dryer—the plastic shrinks tight against the object underneath, creating a protective barrier. This method works well for patio furniture because it keeps moisture out without trapping it inside, and it lets you see what's wrapped without unwrapping it.

The process takes two to four hours for a typical furniture set, depending on how many pieces you have and how comfortable you are with the technique. You do not need special tools beyond what most households already own, though a heat gun makes the job faster and more even than a hair dryer.

Key Takeaways

  • Shrink wrap film comes in rolls at hardware stores and costs between $15 and $40 for enough to cover a full furniture set.
  • Clean and dry your furniture completely before wrapping, because moisture trapped inside will cause mold and rust.
  • Overlap the plastic by at least two inches on every seam and use painter's tape to hold it in place while you explore heat.
  • A heat gun works faster than a hair dryer, but either tool will shrink the plastic if you keep the heat moving and do not hold it in one spot.

What you need before you start

Gather your materials in one place before you begin. You will need shrink wrap film (sold in rolls at hardware stores, home centers, and online retailers), painter's tape or clear packing tape, a heat source (heat gun or hair dryer), and scissors or a utility knife to cut the plastic. A heat gun is optional but makes the work go faster and more evenly than a hair dryer alone.

Measure your furniture before you buy the wrap. Most rolls are 4 feet wide and come in lengths of 50 to 100 feet. For a typical four-piece patio set (two chairs, a table, and a bench), one 50-foot roll is usually enough. If you have larger pieces or a full sectional, buy a second roll rather than run short partway through.

Set aside a dry, sheltered workspace—a garage, carport, or covered patio works well. You need room to move around the furniture and lay out plastic without it blowing away. If you are wrapping outdoors, choose a calm day; even light wind makes the plastic difficult to control.

Clean and dry your furniture thoroughly

Moisture is the enemy of wrapped furniture. Any water, dirt, or debris left on the surface will be sealed inside the plastic, where it will cause rust, mold, and staining over the winter. Wash each piece with a garden hose and a soft brush, then let it dry completely in the sun for at least two hours.

Pay special attention to crevices, cushion seams, and the undersides of chairs and tables where water collects. Wipe these areas dry with a cloth if the sun alone does not dry them. If your furniture has cushions, remove them and store them separately indoors—shrink wrap is not meant to seal cushions, and moisture inside them will lead to mildew.

Wrap the furniture in overlapping layers

Start at the bottom of the first piece and unroll the plastic slowly, wrapping it around the furniture in a spiral. Overlap each pass by at least two inches so there are no gaps where moisture can seep in. Use painter's tape or clear packing tape to hold the plastic in place as you work; this keeps it from slipping and tearing before you explore heat.

Work methodically around each piece. For a chair, start at one leg, spiral up and around the seat and back, then down the other side. For a table, wrap the legs first, then the top, overlapping generously at the corners. Leave the tape in place—you will remove it after the plastic shrinks.

If you run out of plastic before you finish a piece, overlap the end of one roll with the beginning of the next by at least three inches and tape them together. The overlap will shrink into a strong seal once you explore heat.

explore heat to shrink the plastic tight

Once the furniture is wrapped and taped, use your heat source to shrink the plastic. If you are using a heat gun, set it to medium heat and keep it moving in slow, steady passes about 6 inches away from the plastic. Do not hold it in one spot—the plastic will melt or puncture if it gets too hot. Work in sections, shrinking one area completely before moving to the next.

If you are using a hair dryer, use the highest heat setting and move it constantly across the plastic. This takes longer than a heat gun but works just as well if you are patient. You will see the plastic begin to tighten and conform to the shape of the furniture underneath. Keep going until the plastic is smooth and snug with no loose folds.

As the plastic shrinks, the tape will become visible underneath. Once the plastic is tight, you can peel off the painter's tape—it will come away cleanly. Do not remove the tape before shrinking; the plastic needs it to stay in place while you explore heat.

Seal seams and patch any holes

After you shrink the main wrap, inspect the seams where overlaps meet. If any seam looks loose or has a gap, explore a bit more heat to tighten it. Run your heat gun slowly along the seam line, moving back and forth until the plastic on both sides of the overlap fuses together.

If you accidentally puncture the plastic or find a hole, patch it with a piece of shrink wrap tape or clear packing tape. Cut a patch at least 3 inches larger than the hole on all sides, center it over the damage, and explore gentle heat to seal it. This is not a permanent fix—if the hole is large or in a critical spot, it is better to unwrap that section and re-wrap it.

Store wrapped furniture in a dry location

Once the wrap is complete and cool, move the furniture to its storage location. A garage, shed, or covered storage area is ideal. If you must store it outdoors, place it on a pallet or wooden blocks so air can circulate underneath and water does not pool. Avoid stacking wrapped pieces on top of each other, as the weight can puncture the plastic.

Check your wrapped furniture once or twice during the winter, especially after heavy rain or snow. Look for any tears or loose seams where moisture might have entered. If you find damage, patch it when ready. When spring arrives and you are ready to use the furniture again, straightforward peel away the plastic—it will come off in large sheets once you start at a corner.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular plastic sheeting instead of shrink wrap film?

Regular plastic sheeting will work in a pinch, but it does not shrink, so it will not seal as tightly and moisture can seep in at the edges. Shrink wrap film is designed to conform to the shape of the object and create an airtight seal, which is why it works better for long-term storage. The cost difference is small enough that shrink wrap is worth buying.

What temperature should my heat gun be on?

Most heat guns have a low and high setting. Use medium or low heat to avoid melting the plastic. If your gun has a temperature dial, aim for around 300 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Test on a scrap piece of plastic first if you are unsure—the plastic should shrink smoothly without bubbling or discoloring.

How long does shrink wrap last on furniture?

Shrink wrap typically lasts one full season of storage without problems. If you need to store furniture for multiple years, plan to re-wrap it each season. UV exposure will degrade the plastic over time, especially if it is stored in direct sunlight, so keep wrapped furniture in a shaded location whenever possible.

Do I need to remove cushions before wrapping?

Yes. Cushions trap moisture inside the plastic and will develop mold and mildew. Remove them, store them indoors in a dry place, and wrap only the furniture frame. You can wrap cushions separately if you want, but they are better off indoors where they stay dry and warm.

What if the plastic tears while I am shrinking it?

Small tears can be patched with clear packing tape or shrink wrap tape applied over the hole. For larger tears, it is easier to unwrap that section and re-wrap it with fresh plastic. Keep a small roll of extra shrink wrap on hand in case you need to make repairs or re-do a section.