Remove the burlap before planting, or your tree will struggle to grow

Yes, you should remove burlap before planting. Burlap is a temporary wrapping meant to hold soil around the root ball during transport and storage — not to stay in the ground. If you leave it on, roots cannot spread into the surrounding soil, water drains poorly around the root ball, and the burlap itself can eventually girdle the trunk as the tree grows. Even burlap labeled "biodegradable" takes months or years to break down, and by then the damage is often done.

The only exception is if the burlap is synthetic (plastic-coated or plastic mesh). Synthetic burlap will not break down at all and must come off. Real burlap, made from jute fibers, will eventually rot, but waiting for that to happen puts your tree at a disadvantage during its first and most critical years in the ground.

Key Takeaways

  • Remove all burlap, twine, and wire baskets before planting — they prevent roots from spreading and water from draining properly around the root ball.
  • Synthetic burlap (plastic-coated or mesh) will never break down and must be removed; real jute burlap rots slowly and should not be left on.
  • Cut burlap away from the top of the root ball first, then gently peel it back as you lower the tree into the hole.
  • If burlap is stuck to the root ball, soak it with water to loosen it rather than tearing roots trying to pull it free.

How to remove burlap safely during planting

Start by cutting the burlap away from the top of the root ball with a utility knife or pruning shears. Cut in a circle around the top, removing at least the upper third of the wrapping. This exposes the soil and the base of the trunk.

Once the top is exposed, place the tree in the planting hole at the correct depth — the soil line on the trunk should be level with the ground. Then gently pull the burlap down and away from the sides of the root ball as you backfill. You do not have to remove every scrap from underneath; the bottom portion will be buried and will rot in place over time. What matters is that the top and sides are exposed so roots can grow outward and water can soak in.

If burlap is stuck tight to the root ball and tearing it risks damaging roots, soak the entire root ball with water for 10 to 15 minutes before planting. Wet burlap loosens and peels away much more easily. Take your time — a torn root is harder to recover from than a few extra minutes spent unwrapping.

Why wire baskets and twine must also come off

Trees often arrive wrapped not just in burlap but also in wire baskets and secured with twine or plastic straps. These must come off too. Wire baskets do not break down and will eventually cut into the trunk and roots as the tree grows. Twine and straps have the same effect — they girdle the tree, cutting off the flow of water and nutrients.

Remove the wire basket by cutting it away with bolt cutters or a reciprocating saw. Cut the twine and straps with a knife. Check the entire root ball, including the bottom, because nurseries sometimes wrap these materials underneath where they are straightforward to miss. A tree that looks fine at planting time can die years later because a wire basket or strap was left on and slowly strangled it.

The difference between real burlap and synthetic burlap

Real burlap is made from jute fibers and will eventually decompose in the soil. It is tan or brown, rough to the touch, and tears fairly easily. Synthetic burlap is plastic-coated or made entirely of plastic mesh. It is often darker, smoother, and does not tear by hand.

If you are unsure which you have, try tearing a small corner. Real burlap tears and frays; synthetic burlap resists tearing or tears in a clean line without fraying. Synthetic burlap must be removed completely — leaving it on is the same as planting the tree in a plastic bag. Real burlap can technically stay on, but removing it gives your tree a much better start.

What happens if you leave burlap on

In the first year, burlap left on the root ball slows water penetration and restricts root growth. The tree may appear healthy because it is living on the water and nutrients stored in the root ball, but it is not establishing new roots in the surrounding soil. This becomes a serious problem in the second and third years when the tree needs to draw water from a larger area.

As the tree grows, the trunk expands. If burlap or twine is still present, it can cut into the bark and wood, creating a girdle that blocks the movement of water and sugars up and down the trunk. By the time you notice the problem — usually when the tree stops growing or the top starts to die back — the damage may be irreversible.

Burlap also traps moisture against the trunk, which can encourage rot and fungal growth. In wet climates or after heavy rain, this risk is higher. Removing the burlap eliminates this problem entirely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I leave burlap on if I'm planting in winter?

No. Winter is actually when leaving burlap on is most risky, because water drains poorly and moisture sits against the trunk. Cold, wet, and wrapped is the worst combination for a newly planted tree. Remove the burlap regardless of season.

What if the burlap is biodegradable?

Biodegradable burlap still takes several months to a year to break down, depending on soil moisture and temperature. Your tree cannot wait that long to establish roots. Remove it at planting time. The label "biodegradable" means it will eventually rot, not that it is safe to leave on.

Do I need to remove burlap if the tree is already planted?

If you discover burlap still on a tree that has been in the ground for a few weeks or months, remove it as soon as you can. Carefully dig around the root ball to expose the burlap, then cut and peel it away. The sooner you do this, the better the tree's chances of recovering and establishing normal root growth.

What should I do with the burlap after I remove it?

Real burlap can be composted or left to decompose in a garden bed — it will break down naturally. Synthetic burlap should go in the trash. Do not leave it lying around the planting site where it might blow into the tree or tangle roots later.