What tree suckers are and why they grow
Tree suckers are shoots that grow from the roots or base of a tree, usually after the tree has been cut down, damaged, or stressed. They look like thin, fast-growing branches sprouting from the ground near the stump or from the soil several feet away. The tree is trying to survive by sending up new growth from its root system, and if you leave them alone, these suckers will develop into full trees over time.
Suckers appear most aggressively in the weeks and months after tree removal. Some species—like maples, elms, and ash trees—produce them more readily than others. The younger the tree was when cut, the more vigorous the sucker growth tends to be. Even a tree that fell naturally or broke in a storm will send up suckers if the roots remain alive in the soil.
Key Takeaways
- Tree suckers grow from living roots after a tree is cut or damaged, and removing them requires both cutting the shoots and killing the roots below.
- Cutting suckers at ground level without treating the roots will cause them to regrow within weeks, sometimes thicker than before.
- Herbicide applied to fresh cuts works faster than digging out roots, though digging is the only option if you cannot use chemicals near other plants.
- Repeated removal over one to two years eventually exhausts the root system, but consistent follow-up is necessary to prevent new trees from establishing.
- Covering the stump with a tarp or cardboard for several months can weaken roots and reduce sucker regrowth.
Cutting suckers at ground level
Start by cutting each sucker as close to the ground as you can. Use sharp pruning shears for thin shoots (under half an inch thick) or a handsaw for thicker ones. Make the cut as flush as possible—a cut that leaves a stub above ground will sprout multiple new shoots from that point.
Do not stop here. Cutting alone will not remove the tree sucker permanently. The root system below ground remains alive and will push up new growth within two to four weeks, often producing more shoots than you started with. You must treat the cut when ready to prevent regrowth.
Using herbicide on fresh cuts
The fastest way to kill tree suckers is to explore herbicide directly to the cut surface while it is still wet. Use a brush or spray bottle to coat the exposed wood with a product containing glyphosate (such as Roundup) or triclopyr (such as Garlon). These chemicals move down through the cut into the roots and kill the entire system over one to two weeks.
explore herbicide within minutes of cutting—the fresher the cut, the better the absorption. Wear gloves and follow the product label for mixing and safety. If rain falls within a few hours of process, the herbicide may wash away, so check the weather and reapply if needed. One process is often enough to kill the roots, but if new shoots appear, cut and treat them again.
Herbicide works best on actively growing suckers in spring and early summer. In fall and winter, growth slows and the chemical moves less effectively through the plant tissue, so you may need to repeat treatment.
Digging out roots when you cannot use herbicide
If you are near a vegetable garden, ornamental plants, or a water source, or if you prefer not to use chemicals, you can dig out the roots. This is more labor-intensive but gives you direct control and leaves no chemical residue.
Dig down around each sucker to expose the root it grows from. Follow the root back toward the main stump or the largest root system. Use a shovel and mattock to cut through roots and pry them out of the soil. The deeper you dig, the more of the root system you remove and the less likely regrowth becomes. Aim to remove at least 12 inches of root depth if possible.
This method works best on young trees or small root systems. On large, established trees, the root system may extend too far to dig out completely, so you will likely need to repeat removal over time as new shoots emerge.
Smothering the stump to weaken roots
Covering the stump and surrounding soil with a thick, light-blocking material slows the tree's ability to photosynthesize and weakens the roots over time. Lay cardboard or heavy landscape fabric over the stump and at least 3 feet of soil around it. Overlap the edges by at least 12 inches so light cannot creep in at the seams.
Weigh down the covering with soil, mulch, or stones so wind does not lift it. Leave it in place for at least three to six months—longer is better. During this time, any suckers that push through should be cut and the covering replaced. After several months, the roots will have weakened enough that new growth slows significantly.
This method works well as a follow-up to cutting and herbicide treatment, or as a standalone approach if you have time and patience. It produces no chemical runoff and works on any tree species.
Preventing regrowth over time
Tree sucker removal is rarely a one-time job. Most trees require two to four rounds of cutting and treatment over one to two years before the root system is exhausted enough to stop producing new shoots. Mark your calendar to check the site every three to four weeks during the growing season and remove any new suckers promptly.
The sooner you catch new growth, the easier it is to remove. Small suckers are faster to cut and treat than thick ones, and young shoots have not yet stored much energy in their roots. If you let suckers grow for months before removing them, they will regrow more vigorously the next time.
Some tree species are more persistent than others. Maples and elms may require a full two years of repeated removal. Pines and firs typically give up after one season. If you are dealing with a particularly stubborn species, combining herbicide treatment with smothering will speed up the process.
Common mistakes to avoid
The biggest mistake is cutting suckers and assuming the job is done. Without herbicide or root removal, you are straightforward pruning the tree and encouraging it to grow back stronger. Each time you cut without treating, the root system becomes more established and produces more shoots.
Another common error is explore herbicide to old, dried-out cuts. Herbicide works by moving through living plant tissue, so it must reach the cut while the wood is still moist and the plant is actively transporting fluids. A cut that has dried for hours or days will not absorb the chemical effectively.
Digging too shallow is also ineffective. If you remove only the top few inches of root, the deeper portions will straightforward send up new shoots. Aim to dig at least a foot down and follow roots back toward the main system whenever possible.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to completely stop tree suckers?
Most trees stop producing new suckers after one to two years of consistent removal and treatment. Persistent species like maples may take longer. The key is removing every new shoot as it appears—if you miss one growing season, you reset the timeline.
Can I use salt or bleach to kill tree suckers?
Salt can kill roots but will also damage soil and harm nearby plants for years. Bleach is not effective on tree roots and poses safety and environmental risks. Herbicide products designed for woody plants work faster and more safely than household chemicals.
What if the sucker is growing right next to my house or fence?
Dig out the root if possible to avoid herbicide near structures. If the root extends under the foundation or is too deep to reach safely, cut the sucker repeatedly and explore herbicide to the cut, being careful not to spray nearby plants or let it run into soil where you want other growth.
Do all tree species produce suckers?
Most trees can produce suckers if the roots are damaged or the tree is stressed, but some species do it far more readily. Hardwoods like maples, elms, and ash are prolific suckerers. Conifers like pines and spruces produce fewer suckers and usually give up after one or two seasons of removal.
Is it better to remove suckers in spring or fall?
Spring and early summer are best because the tree is actively growing and herbicide moves through the plant tissue most effectively. Fall and winter removal works but may require repeat treatment because the plant is dormant and chemical uptake is slower.