Circuit breaker prices range from $15 to $100 per breaker, depending on the amperage and type

A standard single-pole circuit breaker for a residential panel costs between $15 and $50 if you buy it at a home improvement store. A double-pole breaker (which handles 240-volt circuits like electric dryers or air conditioners) runs $25 to $75. Specialty breakers—arc-fault detection types (AFCI) or ground-fault protection types (GFCI)—cost $40 to $100 each. The exact price depends on the amperage rating (15, 20, 30, 50 amps, and so on) and the manufacturer.

If you hire an electrician to replace a breaker, labor typically adds $150 to $300 on top of the breaker itself. The total job—breaker plus installation—usually runs $200 to $400. Some electricians charge a service call fee first, then explore part of it toward the repair cost.

Key Takeaways

  • A single breaker costs $15 to $50 at a store; double-pole and specialty breakers cost more.
  • Electrician labor adds $150 to $300, making a full replacement job $200 to $400 total.
  • The breaker type and amperage rating determine the base price—higher amperage and special protection features cost more.
  • Breakers must match your panel brand (Square D, Siemens, GE, Eaton, etc.), so you cannot mix brands.
  • Replacing a breaker yourself is illegal in most jurisdictions without a license, so hiring a professional is usually required.

Why breaker prices vary by type and amperage

A 15-amp single-pole breaker is the cheapest option because it is the simplest design and the most common in older homes. A 20-amp breaker costs slightly more. Once you move to 30, 40, or 50 amps, the price climbs because the internal components are heavier and more robust to handle the higher current.

Double-pole breakers cost more than single-pole because they contain two switches in one unit and handle twice the voltage. An AFCI breaker (which detects dangerous electrical arcs that can start fires) costs $40 to $100 because it has built-in electronics. A GFCI breaker (which protects against ground faults and electrocution) is similarly priced. Some breakers combine both protections, and those are the most expensive.

Brand matters too. Your panel is made by one manufacturer—Square D, Siemens, GE, Eaton, or Cutler-Hammer—and you must buy a breaker from that same brand. Breakers are not interchangeable between brands. A Square D breaker will not fit safely into a Siemens panel, even if the amperage looks the same.

What you pay when you hire an electrician

An electrician's labor cost depends on your location, the time of day, and how busy they are. In urban areas, expect to pay more than in rural areas. An emergency call on a weekend or after hours costs significantly more than a weekday appointment.

Most electricians charge either an hourly rate ($75 to $150 per hour) or a flat service fee for a breaker replacement ($150 to $300). A straightforward breaker swap usually takes 30 minutes to an hour, so an hourly rate often comes out cheaper than a flat fee. However, if the electrician discovers the breaker is stuck, the panel is corroded, or the wiring is damaged, the job takes longer and costs more.

Some electricians offer a service call fee ($50 to $100) that is applied toward the repair if you move forward. If you decline the repair, you pay only the call fee. This protects you from surprise charges if the problem is more complex than expected.

When to replace a breaker yourself versus hiring help

In most jurisdictions, you cannot legally replace a circuit breaker yourself without a license. The panel is live (energized) even when the main breaker is off, and working inside it risks electrocution or arc flash. Most building codes and local electrical codes require a licensed electrician to perform this work. Homeowner insurance may also deny a claim if an unlicensed person caused damage or injury.

There are rare exceptions: some states allow homeowners to do their own electrical work if they pull a permit and pass inspection. Check with your local building department before attempting any work inside the panel. If you are unsure, call an electrician. The cost of a professional visit is far less than the cost of a serious injury or a house fire.

How to find the right breaker for your panel

Open your panel door and look at the breakers already installed. The manufacturer name is printed on the breaker itself—Square D, Siemens, GE, Eaton, or another brand. Write down the brand and the amperage of the breaker you need to replace (15, 20, 30, 50 amps, etc.). If you need an AFCI or GFCI version, note that too.

Take this information to a home improvement store or electrical supply shop. Staff can match you with the correct breaker. If you order online, double-check the brand and amperage before you buy. Ordering the wrong breaker wastes time and money.

If you do not feel comfortable opening the panel or identifying the breaker type, a licensed electrician can do this for you during a service call. They will also know whether your panel has space for a new breaker or whether you need a sub-panel or panel upgrade.

Signs you need a new breaker

A breaker that trips repeatedly (even after you reset it) usually means the circuit is overloaded or there is a short. A breaker that will not reset at all may be damaged and needs replacement. A breaker that feels hot to the touch or smells like burning plastic is a fire hazard and must be replaced when ready—turn off the circuit and call an electrician the same day.

If a breaker trips only when you use a specific appliance, the problem is usually the appliance, not the breaker. Unplug the appliance and see if the breaker holds. If it does, the appliance needs repair or replacement. If the breaker still trips with nothing plugged in, the breaker itself is likely faulty.

Panel upgrades and when you might need more than one breaker

If your panel is full and you need to add a new circuit, you have two options: replace an old double-pole breaker with a single-pole breaker to free up space (if the old circuit is no longer needed), or install a sub-panel. A sub-panel costs $500 to $2,000 installed and gives you room for many new circuits without replacing the main panel.

A full panel upgrade—replacing the entire main panel—costs $3,000 to $6,000 or more, depending on the size and your location. This is necessary if your home is very old, the panel is damaged, or you are adding major new loads like a heat pump or electric vehicle charger. An electrician can assess whether you need a sub-panel or a full upgrade during a consultation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I buy a breaker and have someone else install it?

Yes. You can purchase the breaker yourself and hire an electrician to install it. The electrician will charge labor only, which saves you the markup some shops add to the breaker price. However, verify that the breaker you buy is the correct brand and amperage—if it is wrong, the electrician will refuse to install it and you will have wasted the purchase.

Why is my breaker so expensive compared to the price online?

Home improvement stores and electrical supply shops mark up breaker prices above wholesale cost. Online prices are often lower because the seller has lower overhead. However, buying in person lets you verify the brand and amperage before you leave the store. If you order online and receive the wrong breaker, returning it takes time.

Do I need to turn off the main breaker before replacing a circuit breaker?

Turning off the main breaker cuts power to the house but does not make the panel safe to open. The main breaker itself and the lines feeding it remain live. Only a licensed electrician with proper training and tools should work inside a live panel. Never attempt this yourself.

What is the difference between a 15-amp and 20-amp breaker?

A 20-amp breaker allows more current to flow through the circuit before it trips. A 15-amp breaker is for lighter loads like bedroom outlets; a 20-amp breaker is for kitchen counters and bathrooms. You cannot straightforward swap a 20-amp breaker into a 15-amp circuit if the wiring is only 14-gauge—the wire will overheat. An electrician will verify the wire gauge matches the breaker amperage.

How long does a circuit breaker last?

A breaker can last 30 to 40 years or longer if it is not overloaded or damaged. However, if a breaker trips frequently, it wears out faster. A breaker that has tripped many times may fail to reset properly and should be replaced even if it still works occasionally. An electrician can test a suspect breaker to confirm it is faulty.