Connect the hose to the dryer outlet, then run it to the outside wall or roof
The exhaust hose attaches to a metal outlet on the back of your dryer. Slide the hose over that outlet until it sits flush, then find it with a hose clamp — the metal band that tightens with a screw. The other end of the hose runs outside through your wall or roof to release hot, moist air. The whole job takes 15 to 30 minutes and requires only a screwdriver, a hose clamp (usually included with the dryer), and the hose itself.
Most people make one of two mistakes: they use a hose that is too long or kinked, which traps lint and reduces airflow, or they vent into the attic or crawlspace instead of outside, which damages the structure. A properly connected hose is straight or gently sloped downward, runs the shortest distance possible, and exhausts completely outside.
Key Takeaways
- Slide the exhaust hose over the metal outlet on the back of your dryer and tighten a hose clamp with a screwdriver to hold it in place.
- Run the hose to an exterior wall or roof vent, keeping it as short and straight as possible to prevent lint buildup.
- Use a rigid or semi-rigid metal hose rather than flexible plastic or foil, which can sag, kink, and trap lint.
- Check that the vent damper on the outside flap opens when the dryer runs and closes when it stops.
- Clean the hose and vent opening at least once a year to prevent fire hazard and restore drying speed.
What type of hose to use
Rigid aluminum or galvanized steel is the best choice. These hoses do not sag or kink, they shed lint more easily, and they last 10 to 15 years. They are slightly harder to install around corners but worth the effort.
Semi-rigid metal hose (also called accordion hose) is a middle ground. It bends more easily than rigid pipe but still holds its shape and resists kinking. It works well in tight spaces and costs less than rigid pipe.
Avoid flexible plastic or foil hoses. They sag over time, trap lint inside the folds, and can melt if the dryer runs hot. Many building codes now ban them. If your dryer came with a foil hose, replace it with metal before you use the dryer.
Step-by-step connection at the dryer
First, unplug the dryer or turn off its circuit breaker. Move the dryer away from the wall so you can reach the back easily.
Locate the exhaust outlet on the back of the dryer — it is a round metal port, usually 4 inches in diameter. Slide the end of your hose over this outlet until it covers the port completely. The hose should sit snug; if it is loose, the connection will leak air and lint.
Slide a hose clamp over the hose where it meets the dryer outlet. Position the clamp so the screw faces downward or to the side (not upward, where it can catch lint). Tighten the screw with a screwdriver until the clamp is snug — firm enough that the hose does not move, but not so tight that you crush the hose. If you are using rigid pipe, the clamp holds less critical; if you are using semi-rigid hose, tighten it firmly.
Repeat this process at the other end of the hose where it connects to your exterior vent. Some exterior vents have a threaded collar; others require a clamp. Check your vent's instructions.
Running the hose to the outside
The shortest path is always the best. Measure the distance from your dryer to the nearest exterior wall or roof. If that distance is more than 25 feet, your dryer will work harder and dry clothes more slowly — consider moving the dryer closer to an exterior wall if possible.
Avoid running the hose through walls, attics, or crawlspaces. Hot, moist air that vents into these areas causes mold, rot, and structural damage. The hose must exit completely to the outside air.
If the hose must turn a corner, use a 90-degree elbow fitting (metal, not plastic). Minimize the number of turns — each turn slows airflow and traps lint. Slope the hose slightly downward as it runs toward the exit so condensation drains back toward the dryer rather than pooling inside the hose.
At the exterior wall or roof, install a vent hood with a damper — a hinged flap that opens when the dryer runs and closes when it stops. This prevents cold air and pests from entering the house. Most vent hoods come with a collar that slides into the wall opening; find it with caulk or weatherstripping to seal gaps.
Checking airflow and sealing leaks
Once the hose is connected, plug the dryer back in and run it on high heat for 5 to 10 minutes. Feel the air coming out of the exterior vent — it should be hot and moist. If the air is weak or cool, the hose is kinked, too long, or clogged with lint.
Check the damper flap on the exterior vent. It should open fully when the dryer is running and close completely when the dryer stops. If it sticks or does not close, replace the vent hood.
Inspect the hose connection at the dryer and at the exterior vent for gaps or loose clamps. If you see daylight or feel air leaking, tighten the clamp or reposition the hose. Seal any gaps between the vent hood and the wall with caulk rated for high heat.
Maintenance to keep the hose clear
Lint accumulates inside the hose even when you clean the lint trap after every load. Once a year, disconnect the hose at both ends and use a dryer vent brush — a long, flexible brush designed for this job — to scrub the inside. You can buy these brushes at any hardware store for $15 to $30.
While the hose is disconnected, also clean the exterior vent opening. Use a brush or cloth to remove lint from the damper flap and the vent hood. If lint is packed tightly, use a shop vacuum to pull it out.
If your dryer is taking longer than usual to dry a full load, or if the exterior vent is not releasing hot air, the hose is likely clogged. Disconnect and clean it when ready. A clogged hose forces the dryer to work harder, shortens its lifespan, and creates a fire hazard.
Common problems and fixes
The hose is kinked or crushed. This usually happens when the dryer is pushed too far back against the wall. Pull the dryer forward, straighten the hose, and reposition the dryer so there is at least 1 inch of clearance behind it. If the hose is permanently damaged, replace it.
The exterior damper does not open. The damper may be stuck with lint or ice (in cold climates). Disconnect the hose from the exterior vent and clean the damper flap by hand. If it still does not move freely, replace the vent hood.
Condensation is pooling inside the hose. This happens when the hose is not sloped downward or when the dryer is in a cold space like a garage. Adjust the slope so the hose runs slightly downward toward the exterior. In very cold climates, insulate the hose with foam pipe wrap to reduce condensation.
The hose is leaking air at the connection. The clamp is either too loose or the hose is not fully seated on the outlet. Loosen the clamp, push the hose all the way onto the outlet, and retighten the clamp firmly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a flexible plastic hose instead of metal?
Flexible plastic and foil hoses are not recommended and are banned by code in many areas. They sag, trap lint, and can melt. Use rigid or semi-rigid metal hose instead. If your dryer came with plastic hose, replace it before using the dryer.
How long can the exhaust hose be?
The hose should be as short as possible, ideally under 25 feet. Each additional foot of hose and each turn reduces airflow and increases lint buildup. If your dryer is far from an exterior wall, consider moving the dryer closer or installing a second vent opening.
What if I cannot vent outside because I live in an apartment?
Check your lease and local building code first — many apartments and codes prohibit venting into walls or common spaces. If exterior venting is not possible, a condensing dryer (which collects moisture in a tank you empty) or a heat pump dryer (which recycles hot air) are the only safe alternatives.
Do I need to use a hose clamp, or can I just push the hose on?
A hose clamp is essential. Without it, the hose can slip off the outlet during operation, releasing hot air and lint into the wall or crawlspace. Use a clamp at both ends of the hose.
How often should I clean the exhaust hose?
Clean the hose at least once a year, or sooner if drying time increases or the exterior vent releases weak airflow. Use a dryer vent brush to scrub the inside, and clean the exterior damper and vent opening at the same time.