Removing an InSinkErator disposal is a job you can do yourself if you're comfortable working under the sink, but it requires disconnecting plumbing and electrical lines in the right order

An InSinkErator disposal comes out in stages: you disconnect the drain lines, unbolt the mounting ring from underneath the sink, and then disconnect the electrical cord. The whole process takes 30 to 45 minutes if you've done it before, or an hour to 90 minutes if you're working slowly and carefully. You'll need a bucket, a flashlight, a wrench or socket set, and a screwdriver. The hardest part is usually breaking loose the mounting ring—it's tight by design—but it's not a job that requires special tools.

If you're removing the disposal because it's broken or clogged beyond repair, you may want to have a new one on hand before you start, because you'll have an open drain hole under your sink once the old unit comes out. If you're just taking it out and not replacing it, you'll need to cap the drain opening with a proper sink drain plug or have a plumber install a standard drain basket.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the disposal at the wall switch and unplug it from the outlet before you touch anything under the sink.
  • Disconnect the drain lines by loosening the slip nuts with a wrench—have a bucket ready because water will spill out.
  • The mounting ring holds the disposal to the sink from underneath; loosen the three bolts that run around it to release the unit.
  • Once the disposal is free, disconnect the electrical cord, which is usually plugged into an outlet under the sink or hardwired into the wall.
  • After removal, you'll need to cap the drain hole with a sink drain plug or have a plumber install a standard drain basket.

Turn off power before you start

The first and most important step is to make sure the disposal cannot turn on while you're working. Go to the wall switch above the counter and turn it off. Then go under the sink and unplug the electrical cord from the outlet. If the disposal is hardwired directly into the wall (no plug), you'll need to turn off the circuit breaker that controls it. If you're not sure which breaker it is, turn off the main breaker to be safe—you're only working for an hour.

Never rely on the wall switch alone. Switches fail, and someone upstairs could flip it back on without knowing you're under the sink. Unplugging the unit or killing the breaker is the only way to be certain.

Disconnect the drain lines

Look under the sink at the disposal. You'll see two drain connections: one coming from the sink itself (the inlet) and one going to the main drain line (the outlet). Both are held on with slip nuts—large hexagonal nuts that you can usually loosen by hand or with a wrench.

Place a bucket underneath before you loosen anything. Even if the disposal hasn't been used in hours, there's standing water in the lines. Loosen the slip nut on the inlet line first (the one coming from the sink), then the outlet line. Once both nuts are loose enough, you can unscrew them by hand and pull the rubber or metal connectors away from the disposal. Let any remaining water drain into the bucket.

If a slip nut is stuck, spray it with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 10 minutes before trying again. Don't force it—you can crack the fitting. If it still won't budge, you may need to call a plumber, because forcing it risks damaging the drain lines themselves.

Remove the mounting ring and bolts

The disposal hangs from a mounting ring that's bolted to the underside of the sink. You'll see three bolts arranged in a triangle around the ring. These bolts are tight—they're designed to hold the weight of the unit and the force of grinding. Use a wrench or socket set to loosen all three bolts. You don't have to remove them completely; just loosen them enough that you can turn them by hand.

Once all three bolts are loose, the disposal will start to drop. Support it with one hand while you finish unscrewing the bolts with the other, or have someone hold it steady. The unit is heavy (usually 8 to 12 pounds), so don't let it fall on your head or hands. Once the bolts are out, the mounting ring will separate from the sink, and the disposal will come free.

Disconnect the electrical cord

With the disposal out of the mounting ring, look for the electrical cord. In most cases, it's plugged into an outlet under the sink—just unplug it. If it's hardwired (connected directly to the wall with wire nuts), you'll need to unscrew the wire nuts to separate the disposal wires from the house wiring. If you're not comfortable doing this, stop here and call an electrician to finish the job.

Once the cord is disconnected, the disposal is completely free. Set it aside or take it to a recycling center. Many scrap metal facilities will take old appliances, and some will pay you a small amount for the metal.

Cap or replace the drain opening

With the disposal out, you now have an open hole under your sink where the drain used to connect. You have two options: cap it temporarily or install a new drain basket.

A temporary cap is a rubber or plastic plug that fits into the drain hole. You can buy one at any hardware store for $5 to $15. It's not a permanent solution—it can dry out and crack—but it works for a few weeks if you're deciding whether to replace the disposal.

A permanent solution is to install a standard sink drain basket, which is what you'd have if you'd never had a disposal. This requires removing the old mounting ring from the sink (which is bolted from underneath) and installing a new drain basket with its own mounting hardware. If you're not comfortable doing this, a plumber can install it in 30 minutes for a service call fee.

When to call a plumber instead

You can handle this job yourself if the drain lines come loose easily and the electrical cord is straightforward plugged in. Call a plumber if any of these are true: the slip nuts won't loosen even after soaking with penetrating oil, the disposal is hardwired and you're not comfortable disconnecting house wiring, or you want the new drain basket installed and don't want to tackle the mounting ring yourself.

A plumber can remove the old disposal and install a new one (or cap the drain) in about an hour. The cost varies by region and by whether you're replacing the unit, but expect to pay $150 to $300 for labor alone.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I remove the disposal myself if I've never done plumbing before?

Yes, if the drain lines come loose easily and the cord is plugged in. The job is mostly about loosening bolts and nuts in the right order. The main risk is water spilling when you disconnect the drain lines—that's why you use a bucket. If anything is stuck or you're uncomfortable working with the electrical cord, call a plumber.

What do I do with the old disposal after I remove it?

Take it to a scrap metal recycling center or an appliance recycling facility. Many will take it for free; some pay a small amount for the metal. Don't put it in the trash—it's too heavy and takes up space in the landfill.

Do I have to replace the disposal, or can I just leave the hole open?

You need to cap the hole with either a temporary rubber plug or a permanent drain basket. An open hole will let sewer gas come back up into your kitchen and allows debris to fall into the drain line. A cap costs $5 to $15; a new drain basket costs $20 to $50 plus installation.

What if water keeps dripping from the drain lines after I disconnect them?

That's normal. Have your bucket ready and let it drain completely before you move the lines. If water keeps coming after a few minutes, there may be a clog in the line above the disposal—that's a separate issue you can address once the disposal is out.

Is it cheaper to remove the disposal myself or hire a plumber?

Removing it yourself costs nothing but your time. Hiring a plumber costs $150 to $300 for labor. If you're comfortable under a sink and the job looks straightforward, do it yourself. If anything is stuck or you're unsure about the electrical work, the plumber fee is worth the peace of mind.