What You Need Before You Start
A range hood installation takes between two and four hours if you are comfortable with basic tools and have a clear path for ductwork. You will need a drill, a level, a tape measure, a screwdriver set, and a stud finder. Most range hoods come with mounting brackets, screws, and a template — check your manual first to confirm what is included.
Before you buy or install anything, measure the width of your cooktop or range. Range hoods come in 24, 30, 36, and 42-inch widths. The hood should be at least as wide as your cooking surface, and ideally 3 to 6 inches wider on each side. If your hood is too narrow, it will not capture steam and cooking odors effectively.
You also need to decide whether your hood will vent outside (ducted) or recirculate air back into the kitchen (ductless). Ducted hoods are more effective but require a hole through your wall or roof and ductwork. Ductless hoods use charcoal filters and are easier to install but need filter replacements every three to six months. Check your lease or local building codes — some apartments and jurisdictions restrict ducted hoods.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your cooktop width first; your range hood should match or exceed that width by 3 to 6 inches on each side.
- Locate wall studs with a stud finder and mark them before drilling, because the hood must be anchored to solid wood, not drywall alone.
- Use the template that comes with your hood to mark screw holes precisely, and check that the hood is level before tightening all fasteners.
- For ducted hoods, connect ductwork to the outlet before mounting the hood, and seal all joints with metal tape to prevent air leaks.
- Turn off power to any existing range hood circuit at the breaker before removing old equipment or working near electrical connections.
Removing an Old Hood (If One Exists)
If you are replacing an existing range hood, turn off the power at your circuit breaker first. Locate the breaker labeled for your range hood or kitchen exhaust and switch it to the off position. Test the hood by pressing the power button to confirm it is dead.
Disconnect the ductwork by loosening the clamp that holds the duct to the hood outlet. You may need to remove a few screws that hold the duct collar in place. Slide the duct away from the hood carefully — it may contain dust and grease buildup, so work slowly to avoid spilling it.
Unscrew the mounting brackets from the wall studs. Most hoods have four to six screws. Once the hood is loose, you can lift it away from the wall. If the hood is wired directly to a junction box (rather than plugged in), you will need to disconnect the wires inside the junction box. Take a photo of the wire connections before you disconnect them so you can reconnect them the same way later, or label each wire with tape.
Locating Studs and Marking Screw Holes
Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs behind your range. Mark each stud with a pencil. Studs are typically 16 inches apart. Your range hood must be anchored to at least two studs — one on each side — so the weight is distributed evenly. If your hood is wider than the distance between two studs, you may need to install a horizontal support board (called a ledger board) between three studs.
Most range hoods come with a paper template. Tape the template to the wall at the height where your hood will sit. The bottom of the hood should be 24 to 30 inches above your cooktop surface — check your manual for the exact distance. Use a level to make sure the template is straight, then mark the screw holes through the template with a pencil.
Verify that at least two of your marked screw holes line up with the studs you found. If they do not, adjust the template up or down slightly until they do. Once you are certain the holes are in the right place, drill pilot holes at each mark. Pilot holes are smaller than your mounting screws and prevent the wood from splitting.
Installing Ductwork for Ducted Hoods
If your hood is ducted, connect the ductwork before you mount the hood to the wall. Slide the duct collar onto the hood outlet and tighten the clamp. The collar should fit snugly with no gaps. Seal the joint between the collar and the duct with metal foil tape — do not use duct tape, which deteriorates over time.
Run the duct to your exit point (usually through the wall or roof). Smooth out any kinks or bends in the duct, because restrictions reduce airflow and make the hood noisier. If you need to join two pieces of duct together, overlap them by at least 2 inches and seal the joint with metal tape on all sides.
At the exit point, install a damper or check valve if your duct does not already have one. A damper prevents outside air and pests from entering your kitchen when the hood is off. find the duct to the wall or ceiling with metal brackets every 4 to 6 feet so it does not sag or vibrate.
Mounting the Hood to the Wall
Position the hood at the marked location and have a helper hold it level while you start the mounting screws. Screw the hood into the pilot holes you drilled earlier, using the screws that came with your hood. Do not tighten them all the way yet — leave them loose enough that you can still adjust the hood slightly.
Place a level on top of the hood and check that it is perfectly horizontal. Adjust the hood up, down, or sideways until the bubble in the level is centered. Once the hood is level, tighten all the mounting screws firmly. Do not over-tighten, because you can crack the hood or strip the screw holes.
If your hood has a front panel or trim ring, install it now according to your manual. Most panels slide or snap into place. Check that all visible gaps between the hood and the wall are even and consistent.
Connecting Electrical Power
If your hood is hardwired (connected directly to your home's electrical system rather than plugged into an outlet), you will need to connect the wires inside the junction box. The junction box is usually located on top of or inside the hood. Open it and you will see three or four wires: black (hot), white (neutral), and green or bare copper (ground).
Match the wires from your home's circuit to the wires on the hood. Black connects to black, white to white, and green or copper to green or copper. Use wire connectors (small plastic caps that twist onto the wires) to join them. Twist the two wires together first, then screw the connector onto them until it is snug. Wrap the connection with electrical tape for extra security.
Once all wires are connected, close the junction box and restore power at the breaker. Test the hood by turning it on at the wall switch. The fan should run smoothly and the light should come on. If nothing happens, turn off the breaker again and check that all wire connections are tight.
Testing and Adjusting
Run the hood on its lowest speed for a few minutes and listen for unusual noises. A slight hum is normal, but grinding, rattling, or squealing means something is wrong. Turn it off and check that all mounting screws are tight and that the duct is not kinked or rubbing against anything.
Hold a piece of tissue paper near the front of the hood while it is running. The tissue should be pulled toward the hood, not pushed away. If the tissue is not moving, the duct may be blocked or the damper may be stuck. Check the duct for debris and make sure the damper opens freely.
Test the light by turning it on. If the bulb does not light, check that it is screwed in fully. Most range hood lights use standard incandescent or LED bulbs that you can buy at any hardware store. Replace the bulb if it is burned out.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a range hood without a stud finder?
You can tap along the wall with a hammer to listen for the solid sound of a stud, but a stud finder is faster and more reliable. They cost between $15 and $40 and are worth the investment if you plan to do any wall work. If you do not want to buy one, most hardware stores will lend or rent them for a small fee.
What if there are no studs where I need to mount the hood?
You can install a horizontal support board (ledger board) between two studs at the height where your hood will sit. Screw the ledger board to the studs, then mount your hood to the ledger board. This spreads the weight across a larger area and is a standard solution when studs do not line up with your hood's mounting holes.
Do I need a permit to install a range hood?
Permit requirements vary by location. Some cities require a permit for any work involving ductwork or electrical connections, while others do not. Contact your local building department before you start. If a permit is required and you skip it, you may have trouble selling your home later or getting homeowner's insurance to cover damage.
How high should a range hood be above my cooktop?
Most manufacturers recommend 24 to 30 inches from the cooktop surface to the bottom of the hood. Check your hood's manual for the exact distance, because it varies by model. Too low and the hood may interfere with tall pots or your head; too high and it will not capture steam and odors effectively.
Can I use a ductless hood if I do not want to cut a hole in my wall?
Yes. Ductless hoods recirculate air back into the kitchen after passing it through a charcoal filter. They are easier to install because they do not require ductwork or an exterior vent. The trade-off is that they are less effective at removing heat and odors, and you will need to replace the charcoal filter every three to six months depending on how much you cook.