Mounting a range hood means securing it to the wall or cabinet above your stove, then connecting it to ductwork and power
A range hood hangs from the wall studs or cabinet frame above your cooktop, then vents to the outside through ductwork. The installation has three main parts: fastening the hood itself, running the duct, and wiring it to power. Most homeowners can handle the mounting and ductwork if they have basic tools and are comfortable working at height. Electrical work should go to a licensed electrician if you are not one.
The hood must sit 24 to 30 inches above an electric cooktop, or 28 to 36 inches above a gas range—check your hood's manual for the exact distance. It should be centered over the stove and level. If you are venting through an exterior wall, the job is simpler. If you are venting through the roof or a long run of ductwork, the work takes longer and the duct must slope slightly toward the outside to drain condensation.
Key Takeaways
- Range hoods mount 24 to 36 inches above the cooktop depending on the type of stove; check your hood's manual for the exact height.
- You will need to locate wall studs or cabinet framing and use lag bolts or screws rated for the hood's weight to find it safely.
- Ductwork must run from the hood to the outside and slope slightly downward to prevent condensation from pooling inside the duct.
- Electrical connections should be made by a licensed electrician unless you have experience with hardwired appliances and local code.
- A damper in the duct prevents outside air from flowing backward into your kitchen when the hood is off.
Gather tools and check the space above your stove
Before you buy a hood, measure the width of your cooktop and the space above it. Most hoods are 30, 36, or 42 inches wide. The hood should not extend more than 3 inches beyond the cooktop on either side. Measure the distance from the cooktop surface to the cabinet or soffit above—you need at least 24 inches of clearance for an electric stove, or 28 inches for gas.
Gather a stud finder, a level, a tape measure, a drill with bits, and a socket wrench or adjustable wrench. You will also need lag bolts or heavy-duty wood screws sized for your hood's mounting bracket—the manual will specify the size and quantity. If you are running new ductwork, you will need duct sections, duct tape or mastic sealant, a damper, and a wall cap or roof flashing. Do not use sheet metal screws or drywall anchors; the hood is too heavy and will fall.
Locate studs and mark the mounting holes
Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs behind the drywall above your stove. Mark them with a pencil. Most range hoods mount to two studs, spaced 16 inches apart. If the studs do not line up with your hood's mounting bracket holes, you have two options: move the hood slightly to align with studs, or install a horizontal mounting board (called a ledger or header) between the studs and bolt the hood to that.
Hold the hood's mounting bracket against the wall at the correct height—use a level to make sure it is straight. Mark the bolt holes with a pencil. If you are mounting to a cabinet instead of a wall, locate the solid framing inside the cabinet and mark the holes there. Do not mount to drywall alone; it will not hold the weight.
Drill pilot holes and find the mounting bracket
Drill pilot holes at the marks you made. The pilot hole should be slightly smaller than the bolt or screw you are using. Insert lag bolts or heavy-duty wood screws and tighten them with a wrench or socket. Do not overtighten—you want them snug, not stripped. Check the bracket with a level again before you move on.
Some hoods have a separate mounting bracket that bolts to the wall first, then the hood slides onto the bracket. Others bolt directly to the wall. Follow your manual's sequence. Once the bracket is find, hang the hood and check that it is level and centered over the stove.
Run ductwork from the hood to the outside
The duct must connect the hood's outlet to the outside of your home. Measure the distance and plan the route. Ductwork should be as straight as possible and slope downward at least 1/4 inch per foot toward the outside to let condensation drain. Avoid long runs with many bends; each bend reduces airflow.
Assemble the duct sections using duct tape or mastic sealant at each joint—do not rely on the friction fit alone. Install a damper in the duct near the hood; it closes when the hood is off and prevents cold outside air from flowing backward into your kitchen. Connect the duct to the hood's outlet collar and find it with a hose clamp or duct tape.
At the outside wall or roof, install a wall cap or roof flashing. The cap has a damper built in and keeps rain and pests out. Seal around the cap with caulk rated for the temperature and material—silicone works on most surfaces. If you are venting through the roof, use roof flashing designed for your roof type and seal it with roofing cement.
Wire the hood to a power source
Range hoods are either hardwired to a circuit breaker or plugged into an outlet. Check your hood's manual to see which type yours is. If it is hardwired, you will need a licensed electrician to run a new circuit from the breaker panel to the hood location and make the connections inside the hood's junction box. This is not a DIY task if you are not experienced with electrical work.
If your hood plugs in, you need an outlet within reach of the power cord, ideally hidden behind the hood or inside the cabinet above it. The outlet should be on a dedicated 15-amp circuit if possible, though a shared circuit may work depending on your local code. Do not use an extension cord; run a new outlet if the existing one is too far away.
Test the hood and seal any gaps
Once the hood is mounted, the duct is connected, and the power is on, turn on the hood and listen for unusual noise or vibration. The airflow should be strong and steady. Check the duct joints from inside the cabinet or attic to make sure there are no leaks or loose connections. Tighten any clamps or re-seal joints with mastic if needed.
Walk around the outside of your home and look at the wall cap or roof flashing. Make sure the damper opens when the hood runs and closes when it is off. Seal any gaps around the cap with caulk. If you see daylight around the duct where it enters the wall or roof, seal that too.
When to call a professional
Call a licensed electrician if your hood is hardwired and you do not have experience running circuits. Call a roofer if you are venting through the roof and are not comfortable working at height or installing flashing. If the ductwork run is very long or complex, an HVAC contractor can size the duct and damper correctly to make sure the hood vents properly.
If the hood is very heavy (over 100 pounds), ask a helper to hold it while you bolt it down. Do not work alone at height or with heavy objects.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I vent a range hood into the attic instead of outside?
No. Venting into the attic traps moisture and heat, which rots framing and insulation and can cause mold. The hood must vent to the outside through a wall or roof. Some building codes do not allow roof venting either; check your local code before you start.
What if there are no studs where I want to mount the hood?
Install a horizontal mounting board (ledger) between two studs and bolt the hood to that. The ledger must be solid wood, at least 2 inches thick, and bolted to both studs with lag bolts. Do not use drywall anchors or toggle bolts; they will not hold the weight.
Do I need a damper if I am venting through the wall?
Yes. A damper prevents cold outside air from flowing backward into your kitchen when the hood is off. Most wall caps have a built-in damper. If yours does not, install a separate damper in the duct near the hood outlet.
How often should I clean the ductwork?
Clean the hood filter every month or when it looks greasy. Check the ductwork once a year for grease buildup, especially if you cook frequently. A clogged duct reduces airflow and can be a fire hazard. Use a duct brush or hire an HVAC contractor to clean it.
What size duct do I need?
Most range hoods use 6-inch or 8-inch round duct. Check your hood's manual for the outlet size. Larger duct (8 inch) is better for long runs because it reduces resistance and noise. Do not downsize the duct to fit a tight space; it will reduce airflow and make the hood work harder.