Removing a range hood takes two to four hours and requires turning off power at the breaker, disconnecting the ductwork, and unbolting the unit from the wall or cabinet

Most range hoods bolt to the underside of a cabinet or directly to the wall, sit on top of your stove, and connect to either ductwork that vents outside or a recirculating filter that pulls air back into the kitchen. Before you start, turn off the circuit breaker that powers the hood—usually a 120-volt breaker in your main panel. If you are not sure which one, flip breakers one at a time and have someone watch the hood light until it goes dark. Never work on an energized hood, even if you think it is off.

The actual removal follows the same order every time: kill the power, disconnect the ductwork, remove the filter or grease trap, unbolt the mounting brackets, and slide the unit out. The hardest part is usually the ductwork connection at the top—it is often caulked or taped tight, and you may need a helper to support the hood's weight while you work above your head.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off power at the breaker before touching any part of the hood, and test the light to confirm it is off.
  • Disconnect the ductwork by removing clamps or tape, then gently pull the flex duct or rigid pipe away from the hood outlet.
  • Remove the filter or grease trap first so the hood is lighter and easier to handle during removal.
  • Unbolt the mounting brackets from the cabinet or wall, usually four to six bolts, and have a helper support the hood while you work.
  • Slide the hood straight out and away from the wall—do not tilt it or force it, as the edges may catch on the cabinet frame.

Turn Off Power and Confirm the Hood Is Dead

Locate your home's main electrical panel and find the breaker labeled for the range hood or kitchen exhaust. If the breaker is not labeled, flip breakers one at a time until the hood light goes off. Switch the breaker to the OFF position and leave it there for the entire job.

Test the hood to make sure power is truly off. Flip the hood's light switch or touch the control panel—nothing should happen. If you see a light come on or hear a beep, you turned off the wrong breaker. Go back to the panel and try again. This step takes only a minute but saves you from a serious shock.

Disconnect the Ductwork from the Hood Outlet

Look at the top of the hood where the duct connects. You will see either a flexible aluminum duct (looks like a dryer vent hose) or a rigid metal pipe. The connection is usually held by a metal clamp that tightens with a screw, or by foil tape wrapped around the joint.

If there is a clamp, loosen the screw with a screwdriver until the clamp is loose enough to slide off. If the duct is taped, use a utility knife to cut through the tape carefully—do not cut into the duct itself. Once the clamp is off or the tape is cut, gently pull the duct away from the hood outlet. You may need a helper to hold the hood steady while you do this, especially if the duct is heavy or long. If the duct is caulked to the hood or to the wall, run a utility knife around the joint to break the seal before pulling.

Remove the Filter or Grease Trap

Most range hoods have a removable filter or grease trap that slides out from underneath. This is usually a metal mesh or baffle filter that catches cooking grease. Slide it straight down and out—it should come free with a gentle tug. If it does not move, check for any clips or latches holding it in place and release those first.

Removing the filter now makes the hood lighter and easier to handle when you unbolt it from the wall or cabinet. Set the filter aside in a safe place so you do not lose it if you plan to reinstall the hood later.

Unbolt the Mounting Brackets from the Wall or Cabinet

Look underneath the hood where it connects to the cabinet or wall. You will see four to six bolts or screws holding the mounting brackets in place. These are usually 1/4-inch bolts with nuts on the underside, or wood screws if the hood is mounted to a wooden cabinet.

Use a socket wrench or adjustable wrench to remove the bolts, or a screwdriver for wood screws. Remove all the bolts but leave one or two finger-tight for now—this keeps the hood from falling while you work. Have your helper support the hood from below or from the side so it does not shift or drop. Once all bolts are loose, remove the last two and set them aside in a container so you do not lose them.

Slide the Hood Out and Away from the Wall

With the ductwork disconnected, the filter removed, and all bolts out, the hood is ready to come free. Have your helper support the hood's weight from below or from one side. Slide the hood straight out and away from the wall or cabinet in one smooth motion. Do not tilt it or force it—if it catches, stop and check what is in the way. The edges of the hood may snag on the cabinet frame or wall trim, so go slowly.

Once the hood is clear of the cabinet, lower it carefully onto a sturdy work surface or have your helper help you set it down on the floor. If the hood is heavy (most are 40 to 80 pounds), do not try to carry it alone. Set it down in a safe place where it will not tip or get damaged.

What to Do with the Ductwork After Removal

Once the hood is out, you will have an open duct hole in your cabinet or wall. If you are installing a new hood, leave the ductwork in place—the new hood will connect to it. If you are not replacing the hood, you have two options: cap the duct opening on the outside of your home with a vent cap, or remove the entire duct run and patch the hole in the wall or cabinet.

Capping the duct is the faster choice and takes about 30 minutes. A vent cap screws onto the end of the duct on the outside of your home and prevents rain and pests from entering. If you remove the duct entirely, you will need to patch the hole with drywall, siding, or trim depending on where the duct exits your home. This is a bigger job and may require a contractor if the duct runs through a wall or roof.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a helper to remove a range hood?

A helper makes the job much easier and safer, especially when disconnecting the ductwork and unbolting the hood. The hood's weight (usually 40 to 80 pounds) and the awkward angle of working above your head make it hard to do alone. If you must work alone, use a jack or sturdy stool to support the hood's weight while you unbolt it.

What if the ductwork is stuck and won't come loose?

Ductwork is often caulked or taped very tightly. Use a utility knife to cut through any caulk or tape around the joint, then try pulling again. If the duct is still stuck, explore a penetrating oil like WD-40 around the joint and wait 15 minutes before trying again. Do not force it or you may bend the duct or damage the hood outlet.

Can I remove a range hood without turning off the power?

No. Even if you do not plan to touch any wires, the hood's metal body can conduct electricity if you accidentally touch a live wire or component. Always turn off the breaker and test the hood to confirm power is off before you start work.

What size wrench do I need to remove the mounting bolts?

Most range hood mounting bolts are 1/4-inch, so a 1/4-inch socket or adjustable wrench will fit. If the bolts are wood screws instead, use a Phillips or flathead screwdriver depending on the screw type. Check the bolt head before you start so you have the right tool ready.

Do I have to remove the ductwork, or can I just unbolt the hood and leave it connected?

You must disconnect the ductwork before unbolting the hood. The duct connection is rigid and will not bend or flex enough to let the hood slide out while still attached. Trying to force the hood out with the duct still connected can damage both the hood and the ductwork, and may tear the duct loose from the wall or roof.