Start with licensed contractors in your state
Your first filter is state licensing. Every state requires plumbers who work on sewer lines to hold a current license—usually a master plumber or journeyman plumber license. Before you call anyone, check your state's plumbing board website (search "[your state] plumbing license verification" or "[your state] contractor license board"). You can look up a contractor's license number there and confirm it is active and in good standing.
Licensing matters because it means the contractor has passed exams on code, safety, and technique. It also means there is a complaint process if something goes wrong. A contractor working without a license may be cheaper, but you have no recourse if the repair fails or causes damage to your property.
Ask every contractor you contact for their license number before you schedule anything. If they hesitate or cannot provide it, move on.
Key Takeaways
- Verify that any contractor holds a current, active plumbing license through your state's licensing board before you call them back.
- Get written estimates from at least three contractors that include the repair method, materials, timeline, and total cost—not just a price.
- Ask whether the contractor will inspect your line with a camera first; this shows what is actually broken and prevents unnecessary digging.
- Check references from recent sewer line jobs, not just general plumbing work, and ask specifically whether the repair held up and whether the contractor cleaned up afterward.
- Confirm that the contractor carries liability insurance and workers' compensation insurance before they set foot on your property.
Get written estimates that spell out the method and materials
A sewer line repair can happen three ways: excavation and replacement (dig up the old line and install new pipe), trenchless repair (insert a new pipe inside the old one without digging), or spot repair (fix only the damaged section). Each costs differently and takes different time. A contractor who quotes you a price without saying which method they will use is not giving you enough information to decide.
Call at least three licensed contractors and ask each one to come look at your property. Most do this for free or charge a small fee (usually $75 to $150). During the visit, ask them to explain which repair method they recommend and why. A good contractor will tell you what they saw, what is broken, and what your options are.
Once they have looked, ask for a written estimate. It should include: the repair method, the type of pipe they will use, the depth and length of the repair, the timeline (how many days the work will take), the total cost, and what is included (cleanup, permits, inspection fees). If an estimate is vague—just a number with no details—ask for clarification before you compare prices. The cheapest estimate is often the one missing information.
Ask whether they will camera-inspect the line first
A sewer camera inspection is a small waterproof camera on a cable that goes down your cleanout and films the inside of your pipe. It shows exactly where the break, root intrusion, or blockage is. This costs $300 to $600 but saves money because the contractor knows what they are fixing before they dig.
Some contractors include a camera inspection in their estimate; others charge for it separately. Either way, a contractor who will not do one is guessing. Ask directly: "Will you camera-inspect the line before you give me a final estimate?" If they say no, ask why. A legitimate reason might be that the cleanout is blocked and needs clearing first. A bad reason is "I can tell what is wrong just by looking at your yard."
If the contractor offers to do the inspection, ask whether they will give you a copy of the video or a written report. You want to see what they saw.
Check references from recent sewer work, not general plumbing
Ask the contractor for the names and phone numbers of three people they have done sewer line repairs for in the past two years. This is different from asking for general plumbing references. Sewer work is specialized, and a contractor who is good at fixing faucets may be poor at sewer repair.
When you call a reference, ask: "Did the repair hold up, or did you have problems after?" and "Did they clean up the yard when they were done?" and "How long did the work actually take?" Sewer repairs often involve digging, and a contractor who leaves your yard torn up or takes twice as long as promised is a problem even if the pipe itself is fixed correctly.
If a contractor cannot or will not give you references, that is a red flag. References take five minutes to collect and provide, so refusal suggests they do not have satisfied customers to call.
Confirm insurance before work begins
Ask the contractor to show you proof of two types of insurance: liability insurance (covers damage to your property or a neighbor's) and workers' compensation insurance (covers their employees if someone is injured on the job). They should be able to email you a certificate of insurance or show you a current policy document.
If they do not have workers' compensation insurance and an employee is injured digging in your yard, you could be liable. If they do not have liability insurance and they hit a water line or damage your foundation, you are paying for it. This is not negotiable.
Do not start work until you have seen proof. A one-minute phone call to their insurance company can confirm the policy is real and active.
Compare the full cost, not just the price
Sewer line repair estimates vary widely because the job itself varies. A spot repair on a shallow line costs far less than replacing 100 feet of deep pipe. When you compare estimates, make sure you are comparing the same scope of work.
Ask each contractor whether their estimate includes: permits (your city may require them), inspection fees (the city may need to inspect the finished work), cleanup and debris removal, and any temporary repairs if the line cannot be fully fixed in one day. Some contractors bundle these in; others bill them separately. A low estimate that does not include permits might become expensive once the city gets involved.
Also ask about the warranty or may provide on the repair. Some contractors may provide their work for one year; others for five. A longer warranty suggests confidence in the repair.
Watch for red flags during the conversation
Avoid contractors who pressure you to decide quickly, quote a price without seeing your property, or promise results they cannot may provide. Sewer repair is not an emergency in most cases—you have time to get multiple estimates and think it through.
Be cautious of contractors who recommend the most expensive option (full replacement) without explaining why a cheaper repair would not work. Ask them to justify the recommendation. A good contractor can explain the trade-offs: "Trenchless repair is faster and less disruptive, but it costs more and may not work if the pipe is severely collapsed. Excavation is cheaper but takes longer and tears up your yard."
Also note how they communicate. Do they answer your questions clearly, or do they use jargon and avoid explaining things? Do they return calls and emails promptly? The contractor you choose will be in your yard for days, so pick someone you can actually talk to.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I need sewer line repair or just a plumber to clear a clog?
If your drains are slow or backing up, call a plumber to snake or camera the line first. This costs $200 to $400 and tells you whether the problem is a clog (which a plumber can clear) or a broken pipe (which needs a sewer contractor). Do not assume you need a repair until someone has looked inside the pipe.
Should I get a permit for sewer line repair?
Most cities require a permit for sewer work. The contractor should know this and handle it, but ask directly: "Will you pull the permit, or do I need to?" If they say you need to, that is unusual and worth questioning. The permit cost is typically $50 to $200 and is usually included in the estimate.
What is the difference between trenchless repair and excavation?
Trenchless repair (pipe bursting or pipe lining) does not require digging up your yard—a new pipe is inserted inside the old one. It costs more but is faster and less disruptive. Excavation means digging up the old pipe and replacing it, which is cheaper but tears up your landscape. A camera inspection will show which method is possible for your situation.
Can I do sewer line repair myself?
No. Sewer lines are deep, often under your foundation or driveway, and require specialized equipment and permits. Digging in the wrong place can hit gas lines, water lines, or electrical lines. This is a job for a licensed contractor.
How long does sewer line repair usually take?
A spot repair or trenchless repair typically takes one to three days. Full excavation and replacement can take a week or more depending on the length of the line and how deep it is. The contractor's estimate should include a timeline.