Yes, you can increase water pressure in most homes, but the method depends on what's causing the low pressure

Low water pressure usually comes from one of three sources: a problem with your home's plumbing, a regulator that's set too low, or an issue outside your home with the municipal supply. You can fix the first two yourself. The third requires your water company. Start by checking whether the problem is everywhere in your house or just one fixture—that tells you where to look.

If low pressure is affecting your whole house, the culprit is usually a pressure regulator (a brass valve on the main water line where it enters your home) that's been set too low, or sediment clogging your main shutoff valve or meter. If it's only one faucet or shower, the problem is almost always a clogged aerator or showerhead. Both are fixable in minutes without calling a plumber.

Key Takeaways

  • A clogged aerator on a single faucet is the most common cause of low pressure and takes two minutes to clean by unscrewing it and rinsing it under running water.
  • If low pressure affects your whole house, check your pressure regulator (the brass valve on your main water line) and adjust it upward, or have it replaced if it's faulty.
  • Sediment buildup in your main shutoff valve or meter can block flow; turning the valve on and off several times may dislodge it, or you may need a plumber to flush the line.
  • If pressure is low only at certain times of day, the problem is likely with your municipal water supply, and you should contact your water company.
  • Water pressure above 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can damage fixtures and appliances, so increasing pressure beyond that point will cost you money in repairs.

Clean the aerator on a single faucet or showerhead

An aerator is the small screen at the tip of your faucet that mixes air into the water stream. Sediment, mineral deposits, and debris collect inside it and block flow. This is the easiest fix and works about half the time for single-fixture low pressure.

Unscrew the aerator by hand (turn it counterclockwise). If it's stuck, wrap a cloth around it and use pliers—do not use excessive force or you'll strip the threads. Rinse the aerator under hot running water and use an old toothbrush to scrub away any white or brown buildup. If the screen is heavily corroded, soak it in white vinegar for 30 minutes, then scrub again. Screw it back on and test the pressure. If you have a showerhead with low pressure, unscrew it the same way and clean it.

Adjust or replace your pressure regulator

Your pressure regulator is a brass or plastic valve, usually bell-shaped, located on the main water line where it enters your home (typically in the basement, crawl space, or under the kitchen sink). It controls how much pressure enters your house. If it's set too low, your whole house will have weak pressure.

Look for an adjustment screw or bolt on top of the regulator. Turn it clockwise to increase pressure. Make a quarter-turn, then go to a faucet and test the pressure. Repeat in small increments until you reach the pressure you want. Do not exceed 80 psi—higher pressure damages water heaters, washing machines, and dishwashers and causes leaks. If you do not see an adjustment screw, or if adjusting it does not help, the regulator is faulty and needs replacement. This is a job for a licensed plumber.

If you do not have a regulator (some older homes do not), you cannot adjust pressure yourself. Your water company controls it from the street, and you would need to contact them to discuss options.

Flush sediment from your main shutoff valve

Sediment can accumulate inside your main shutoff valve (the valve where the water line enters your home) or inside your water meter, blocking flow. This usually causes low pressure throughout the house and may happen suddenly after your water company does work on the street.

Locate your main shutoff valve and turn it on and off rapidly—about 10 to 15 times in quick succession. This can dislodge sediment. Then turn it fully on and let water run from an outdoor faucet or basement drain for a few minutes. If pressure improves, you are done. If not, the meter itself may be clogged, which requires a plumber or your water company to flush the line from the street side.

Check whether the problem is with your municipal water supply

If pressure is low only at certain times of day (usually morning or evening), or if it dropped suddenly and affects your whole neighborhood, the issue is with your municipal water supply, not your home. Contact your water company and report the problem. They can tell you whether there is a main break, maintenance work, or high demand in your area.

You cannot fix this yourself. Your water company may install a booster pump at your meter if low pressure is chronic in your area, though this is uncommon and usually only done for commercial customers. Ask whether this option is available to you.

Install a booster pump if pressure remains low after other fixes

If you have adjusted your regulator, cleaned your aerators, flushed sediment, and pressure is still low throughout your house, a booster pump may be the answer. This is a small electric pump installed on your main water line that increases pressure. Booster pumps cost between $300 and $800 installed and require a licensed plumber.

Before installing a pump, confirm that your municipal pressure is at least 20 psi—a booster pump cannot create pressure from nothing, only increase what is already there. Ask your water company what pressure they deliver to your meter. If it is below 20 psi, a booster pump will not solve the problem, and you need to work with your water company on a different solution.

Know the limits of safe water pressure

Water pressure is measured in pounds per square inch (psi). Most homes receive 40 to 60 psi from the municipal supply. This is adequate for showers, faucets, and appliances. Pressure above 80 psi is considered high and will shorten the life of your water heater, washing machine, and dishwasher, and will cause leaks in pipes and fixtures.

If you increase pressure and then notice leaks appearing in your home, or if your water heater starts making noise, reduce the pressure when ready. Aim for 50 to 70 psi as a comfortable target. You can measure your pressure with an inexpensive gauge (about $10) that screws onto an outdoor faucet.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my pressure regulator is broken?

A broken regulator will not respond to adjustment—turning the screw does not change pressure—or pressure will drop suddenly for no reason. If adjusting the screw does not work, or if pressure fluctuates wildly, the regulator needs replacement. This requires a plumber.

Can low water pressure damage my appliances?

Low pressure does not damage appliances, but it makes them work poorly. Washing machines and dishwashers need at least 20 psi to function properly. If pressure is below that, they will run slowly or incompletely. High pressure (above 80 psi) is what damages appliances by straining seals and connections.

Why is my water pressure low only in the morning?

Morning low pressure usually means your neighborhood is using a lot of water at the same time, and the municipal system cannot keep up. This is a supply-side issue you cannot fix. It typically resolves by mid-morning. If it happens every single day, contact your water company to report chronic low pressure.

Should I install a booster pump or adjust my regulator first?

Always adjust your regulator first—it is free and takes five minutes. Only install a booster pump if the regulator is already at maximum or is broken. A booster pump is expensive and unnecessary if your regulator can do the job.

What is the difference between a pressure regulator and a booster pump?

A regulator reduces incoming pressure to a safe level for your home. A booster pump increases pressure that is already in your system. You need a regulator to protect your home; you need a booster pump only if pressure is too low even after the regulator is adjusted.