The Most Common Fixes for Low Well Water Pressure

Low water pressure from a well usually comes from one of three places: a clogged intake screen, a waterlogged pressure tank, or a pump that has lost prime. Start by checking whether the problem is everywhere in your house or only at certain fixtures. If only one faucet is weak, the blockage is in that line or fixture, not your well system. If pressure is low throughout the house, the issue is in your main line or pressure tank.

The fastest fix is often the simplest: check your pressure tank. A tank that has lost its air charge will not push water with force, even if the pump is working. You can test this by tapping the tank with a wrench—a hollow sound means it needs air, a solid thud means it still has charge. If the tank is waterlogged, the pump will cycle on and off constantly, and pressure will drop as soon as you open a faucet.

Key Takeaways

  • A waterlogged pressure tank is the most common cause of low well pressure and can be fixed by draining and recharging it with a bicycle pump or air compressor.
  • A clogged intake screen or sediment filter will reduce pressure throughout your house and requires cleaning or replacement, a job you can do yourself if you have basic tools.
  • If your pump has lost prime (air has entered the line), you will see no water at all or only a trickle, and you must refill the pump casing before it will work again.
  • Pressure should read between 40 and 60 pounds per square inch when the pump is at rest; if it reads lower, the tank air charge or pump settings need adjustment.
  • If pressure remains low after checking the tank and filter, the pump itself may be failing or the well may be running low, and you will need a well contractor to diagnose further.

How to Recharge a Waterlogged Pressure Tank

A pressure tank holds both water and air. The air acts as a cushion that pushes water out when you open a faucet. Over time, the air charge leaks out or gets absorbed into the water, leaving the tank full of water with no air to push it. When this happens, the pump runs constantly and pressure drops quickly.

To recharge the tank, first turn off the pump at the breaker. Locate the air valve on top of the tank—it looks like a bicycle tire valve. Attach a tire pressure gauge and check the reading. It should be about 2 pounds per square inch below your pump's cut-in pressure (usually 38 to 40 psi). If the gauge reads zero or very low, the tank needs air.

Drain the tank completely by opening the lowest faucet in your house and letting water run until nothing comes out. Once empty, use a bicycle pump or air compressor to add air to the valve until the gauge reads the correct pressure. Close the valve, turn the pump back on, and let the tank refill. Pressure should now hold steady when you turn off the pump.

Cleaning or Replacing Your Intake Screen and Sediment Filter

Your well has a screen at the bottom of the intake pipe that keeps sand and sediment out of the pump. Over years, this screen clogs with fine particles and reduces flow. If you have a sediment filter on your pressure tank or in your house line, it can clog the same way. Both are common causes of gradual pressure loss.

If you have a sediment filter cartridge (usually a white cylinder screwed onto the tank or mounted on the wall), unscrew it and hold it up to a light. If you cannot see light through it, replace it with a new one of the same micron rating—usually 5 or 20 microns for well water. This takes five minutes and costs $15 to $40.

Cleaning the intake screen is more involved and usually requires a well contractor, because the pump must be pulled from the well. However, if you have a shallow well (less than 25 feet deep) and basic mechanical skill, you can do this yourself with a pipe wrench and a bucket. Loosen the pump discharge line, pull the pump casing up slowly, and rinse the screen under clean running water. Reinstall and test pressure.

Restoring Prime to Your Pump

If your pump has lost prime, water will not flow at all, or only a few drops will come out. This happens when air enters the intake line, usually after the well level drops below the intake or after you have drained the system for repairs. The pump cannot pull water up through an air-filled line—it can only push.

To restore prime, locate the priming plug on top of the pump casing. It is usually a small bolt or plug on the highest point of the pump. Turn off the pump, unscrew the plug, and pour clean water into the hole until water overflows. Screw the plug back in tightly, turn the pump on, and listen. You should hear the pump working harder for a few seconds as it pulls water up the intake line. Once water flows steadily, prime is restored.

If you cannot find the priming plug or water does not flow after priming, the intake line may have a leak or the pump may be damaged. This is the point to call a well contractor, because diagnosing a failed pump requires pressure gauges and sometimes pulling the pump from the well.

Checking and Adjusting Your Pressure Switch

Your pump has a pressure switch that turns it on when pressure drops below a set point (usually 40 psi) and turns it off when pressure reaches a higher point (usually 60 psi). If this switch is set too low, pressure will never build high enough to feel strong at your faucets. If it is stuck or failing, pressure will fluctuate wildly.

The switch is a small box bolted to the pressure tank, usually with two wires running to it. You can see the cut-in and cut-out pressures written on a label on the box. If the numbers are lower than 40/60, the switch may have been adjusted down. Do not adjust it yourself unless you are comfortable working with electrical connections—a mistake can damage the pump or create a safety hazard.

If the switch is clicking on and off rapidly (more than once per minute), it is likely failing and needs replacement. A new pressure switch costs $30 to $80 and takes 15 minutes to install if you turn off power first. If you are not confident, a well contractor can do this in under an hour.

When Your Well Itself May Be the Problem

If you have recharged the tank, cleaned the filter, restored prime, and checked the switch, but pressure is still low, the well may be running low or the pump may be failing. A well that has dropped below the intake pipe cannot deliver water no matter how good the pump is. This is common in drought years or in wells that were never very deep.

A failing pump will deliver water but at lower and lower pressure over weeks or months. Pump failure is gradual—you will notice pressure dropping slowly, not suddenly. If this is happening, the pump has likely worn out its internal seals or impeller and needs replacement. A new pump costs $800 to $2,000 installed, depending on well depth and pump size.

To know whether the well is low or the pump is failing, a well contractor can pull the pump and measure the water level in the well. If water is present at the intake depth, the pump is the problem. If the water level is below the intake, you need to either deepen the well or install a new intake at a lower depth. Both are expensive, but a contractor can tell you which option makes sense for your situation.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my pressure tank is waterlogged?

Tap the tank with a wrench. A hollow, empty sound means it has air and is working. A solid, heavy thud means it is full of water and waterlogged. You can also watch the pump—if it turns on and off every few seconds when you are not using water, the tank is likely waterlogged and cannot hold pressure.

Can I increase pressure by adjusting the pressure switch myself?

You can, but only if you are comfortable with electrical work. The switch has two adjustment nuts that control cut-in and cut-out pressure. Turning them clockwise raises pressure. Never raise cut-in pressure above 60 psi or cut-out above 80 psi, as this can damage the pump. If you are unsure, have a contractor do it—the cost is usually under $100.

What pressure should my well pump be set to?

Standard settings are 40 psi cut-in and 60 psi cut-out. This means the pump turns on when pressure drops to 40 and turns off when it reaches 60. Some older systems run at 30/50. Check your pressure switch label to see what yours is set to. You can measure actual pressure with a tire gauge on the air valve of your pressure tank.

How often should I recharge my pressure tank?

A healthy tank should hold its air charge for years. If you are recharging it more than once a year, the tank likely has a leak in its internal bladder or diaphragm and needs replacement. A new tank costs $300 to $800 depending on size. If recharging fixes pressure for months at a time, the tank is aging but still usable.

Will a bigger pump give me more pressure?

No. Pressure comes from the pressure tank and switch settings, not pump size. A larger pump delivers more water volume (gallons per minute), not higher pressure. If you want more pressure, you need to adjust the switch or replace a failing tank. If you want more water available at once, a larger pump or a bigger tank may help.