Why your well pressure drops and what you can do about it

Low water pressure from a well usually comes from one of three places: a clogged intake screen at the bottom of the well, sediment buildup inside the pressure tank, or a failing pressure switch that no longer signals the pump to turn on. You can often fix the first two yourself. The third requires a plumber or well service technician.

The good news is that well pressure problems develop slowly—you'll notice the shower weakening over weeks or months, not overnight. That gives you time to work through the most common fixes before calling someone out.

Key Takeaways

  • A clogged intake screen at the well bottom is the most common cause and can sometimes be cleared by running the pump in reverse or having a well service company perform a backflush.
  • Sediment inside the pressure tank reduces the air space that builds pressure, and draining the tank completely often restores normal flow.
  • A pressure switch that no longer closes properly will prevent the pump from running, and this part typically costs $100 to $300 to replace.
  • If pressure is low everywhere in the house at once, the problem is in the well or tank; if it's low in only one fixture, the problem is in that fixture's line or aerator.

Check whether the problem is in the well or in your house

Before you touch anything, figure out where the pressure is actually lost. Turn on the cold water at your kitchen sink and feel the flow. Then turn on the shower, the outdoor hose, and a bathroom sink. If all of them are weak, the problem is in your well system. If only one or two fixtures are weak, the problem is in those individual lines or aerators, not in the well itself.

For a single weak fixture, unscrew the aerator—the screen at the tip of the faucet—and rinse it under running water to clear sediment. Screw it back on. If that doesn't work, the supply line to that fixture may be kinked or blocked, which is a separate plumbing issue. If all fixtures are weak, continue with the steps below.

Drain and refill the pressure tank

The pressure tank holds both water and compressed air. Over time, sediment settles at the bottom and takes up space that should be air. This reduces the pressure the tank can build. Draining it completely often fixes the problem.

Locate your pressure tank—it's usually a metal cylinder in the basement, crawlspace, or pump house. Turn off the pump at its switch or breaker. Open the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and let all the water run out into a bucket or floor drain. This takes a few minutes. Once it stops dripping, close the drain valve.

Turn the pump back on. It will run and refill the tank. You should hear it cycle off once pressure builds. If pressure returns to normal, you're done. If it's still low, move to the next step.

Check the pressure switch and gauge

The pressure switch tells the pump when to turn on and off. It sits on top of or near the pressure tank and has two wires running to it. A pressure gauge is usually mounted nearby and shows the current pressure in pounds per square inch (PSI).

Look at the gauge while someone turns on a faucet. The pressure should drop as water flows out, then the pump should kick on and pressure should climb back up. If the pump doesn't turn on when pressure drops, the switch is likely bad and needs replacement. This is a job for a well service technician or plumber—the switch costs $100 to $300 plus labor, and the wiring must be done correctly.

If the pump does turn on but pressure climbs very slowly or stops at a low number, the problem is likely a clogged intake screen or a failing pump, not the switch.

Clear a clogged intake screen

At the bottom of your well, a screen prevents sand and sediment from entering the pump. Over years, this screen clogs with fine particles and restricts water flow. A well service company can clear it by running the pump in reverse—a process called backflushing—which forces water back down the well and dislodges the sediment.

This is not a DIY job. Call a local well service company and describe the symptom: pressure has dropped gradually over months, and draining the tank didn't help. They will come out, connect a backflush kit to your system, and run it for 15 to 30 minutes. The cost is typically $200 to $400. If backflushing doesn't work, the screen may need to be replaced, which costs more and requires pulling the pump out of the well.

Before you call, ask whether they offer a pressure test as part of the visit. A good technician will measure pressure at the tank before and after backflushing so you both know whether it worked.

Know when to call a professional

Call a well service company if draining the tank didn't restore pressure, or if the pressure switch isn't turning the pump on. These are the two most common problems that require professional help. Also call if you hear the pump running constantly without building pressure—that usually means the pump itself is failing and needs replacement, which is expensive ($1,500 to $3,000) but necessary.

A plumber can handle pressure switch replacement and basic tank work. A well service company is better equipped for pump problems, backflushing, and screen replacement. Ask for references and get a quote before work begins.

Prevent future pressure drops

Have your well inspected every three to five years, especially if you live in an area with sandy or silty soil. An inspection includes checking the intake screen, the pump condition, and the pressure tank for sediment. Regular inspection catches problems early, before pressure drops noticeably.

If you have a sediment filter on your well line, replace the cartridge according to the manufacturer's schedule—usually every six to twelve months, depending on how much sediment is in your water. A clogged filter reduces pressure just as much as a clogged intake screen.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know what pressure my well should have?

Most residential wells are set to cycle between 30 and 50 PSI, with the pump turning on at 30 and off at 50. You can see this range on the pressure gauge. If your gauge reads below 30 when the pump is off, or if pressure climbs very slowly, something is restricting flow.

Can low water pressure damage my pump?

Yes. If the intake screen is severely clogged, the pump works harder to pull water and can overheat or burn out. If you notice pressure dropping over weeks, address it before the pump fails. Pump replacement costs far more than clearing a screen.

Will a water softener help with low pressure?

No. A softener removes minerals but doesn't increase pressure. If anything, it adds a small amount of resistance to flow. Low pressure is a pump or tank problem, not a water quality problem.

What if pressure is fine in winter but drops in summer?

Higher water use in summer can expose a marginal intake screen or a pump that's losing capacity. The screen may be partially clogged but only noticeable when demand is high. Have it backflushed before next summer.

Is it safe to increase the pressure switch setting to get more pressure?

No. The switch is set to a safe range for your tank and plumbing. Raising it can damage the tank, burst pipes, or cause the pump to fail. If you need more pressure, the pump or tank may be undersized for your household—a well service technician can advise whether upgrading is necessary.