Why Your Well Pressure Drops and What You Can Do About It

Low pressure from a well usually comes from one of three places: the pump itself is failing, sediment has clogged the system, or the pressure tank has lost its air charge. You can often fix this without calling a technician, though some problems do require professional help. Start by checking your pressure gauge—most household wells should read between 40 and 60 pounds per square inch (PSI) when the system is working normally.

The fastest way to know what's wrong is to look at your pressure tank and check whether the pump is cycling on and off too often. If it's running constantly or kicking on every few seconds, your tank has likely lost its air cushion. If pressure is straightforward low across all fixtures, the problem is usually sediment buildup or a weakening pump. If only one fixture has low pressure, the issue is local to that line.

Key Takeaways

  • A pressure tank that cycles too often has lost its air charge and needs to be drained and refilled—a 15-minute job you can do yourself with a bicycle pump.
  • Sediment in the well line clogs screens and reduces flow; flushing the system or replacing the well screen can restore pressure without replacing the pump.
  • A failing pump loses pressure gradually over months or years and eventually needs replacement, which requires a licensed well contractor.
  • Check your pressure gauge reading and listen to how often the pump runs before you call for help, because this tells a technician exactly what to expect.

Recharge Your Pressure Tank If It's Cycling Too Often

A pressure tank stores water under air pressure so the pump doesn't have to run every time you turn on a faucet. Over time, the air cushion inside the tank dissolves into the water, and the tank becomes waterlogged. When this happens, the pump turns on and off constantly—sometimes every 30 seconds or less—even when you're not using water. This is called "short cycling" and it wears out the pump fast.

To recharge the tank, first turn off the pump at the breaker or switch. Open a faucet somewhere in the house to release pressure, then locate the air valve on top of the tank—it looks like a tire valve on a car. Use a bicycle pump to add air until the gauge reads about 2 PSI below your pump's cut-in pressure (usually 38 PSI if your system is set to 40–60). Close the valve, turn the pump back on, and listen. The pump should run for a minute or two, then stop and stay off for several minutes. If it still cycles every few seconds, the tank itself may be failing and will need replacement.

Flush Sediment From the Well Line

Sand, silt, and mineral deposits accumulate in well lines over years of use. This sediment clogs the screen at the bottom of the well and reduces how much water the pump can pull up. You'll notice pressure dropping slowly over weeks or months, and the water may look slightly cloudy or rust-colored. Flushing the line can often restore pressure without any parts replacement.

To flush the system, locate the lowest faucet in your house—usually a basement or outdoor spigot—and turn it on fully for 5 to 10 minutes. Let the water run until it runs clear. Do this once a week for a month if sediment is heavy. If pressure doesn't improve after flushing, the well screen itself may be clogged and will need to be pulled and cleaned by a licensed contractor, which is a bigger job but still cheaper than a new pump.

Check and Replace the Well Screen

The well screen sits at the bottom of the well casing and filters out sand and sediment before water enters the pump. A clogged screen acts like a dam—water can't flow through, so pressure drops even though the pump is working hard. You can't clean the screen yourself without pulling the entire pump assembly, which requires a licensed well contractor and specialized equipment.

Signs that the screen is the problem include pressure that drops suddenly rather than gradually, water that looks sandy or discolored, or pressure that doesn't improve after flushing. A contractor will pull the pump, inspect the screen, clean it or replace it if it's damaged, and reinstall everything. This usually costs between $300 and $800 depending on how deep your well is and how badly the screen is clogged. It's worth doing before replacing the pump, because a new pump won't help if the screen is still blocked.

Test Your Pump's Output With a Flow Test

A pump that's straightforward wearing out will show steady pressure loss over months or years. The system may still work, but pressure gradually falls from 55 PSI to 50 to 45, and you notice weaker showers or slower filling. This is different from sudden pressure loss, which usually points to sediment or a tank problem.

To check whether your pump is failing, turn on your highest faucet (usually an outdoor spigot or shower) and watch the pressure gauge. If pressure drops more than 10 PSI when water is running, the pump is losing its ability to maintain flow. A licensed contractor can do a formal flow test—measuring how many gallons per minute the pump delivers—to confirm the pump is failing. Once a pump starts to weaken, it will continue to decline, and replacement is usually the only real fix. A new well pump typically costs $1,500 to $3,000 installed, depending on well depth and pump size.

When to Call a Licensed Well Contractor

Some pressure problems you can solve yourself—recharging the tank, flushing sediment, or checking the gauge. Others require a licensed contractor because they involve pulling the pump, working at depth, or handling pressurized equipment. Call a contractor if pressure doesn't improve after you've recharged the tank and flushed the line, if the pump is cycling constantly even after recharging, or if you hear unusual noises from the pump.

Before you call, write down your pressure gauge reading, how often the pump is cycling, and when you first noticed the pressure drop. Tell the contractor whether pressure is low everywhere or just at certain fixtures. This information helps them diagnose the problem over the phone and arrive with the right equipment. Many contractors charge a service call fee of $75 to $150 just to come out and look, so having this information ready can save you money if they can walk you through a fix by phone first.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I increase pressure by adjusting the pressure switch?

You can adjust the switch to raise the cut-in and cut-out pressures—for example, from 40–60 PSI to 50–70 PSI—but this only works if the pump is actually capable of delivering that pressure. If the pump is weak or the tank is waterlogged, raising the switch will just make the pump run longer without improving actual water flow. Adjust the switch only after you've ruled out tank and sediment problems.

How do I know if my pressure tank is waterlogged?

Tap the tank with your knuckles near the bottom. A healthy tank sounds hollow and metallic. A waterlogged tank sounds dull and solid, like tapping a bucket of water. You can also turn off the pump and open a faucet—if water comes out for more than a few seconds before pressure drops to zero, the tank has lost its air cushion and needs recharging or replacement.

Will a bigger pump fix low pressure?

Not if the problem is sediment, a clogged screen, or a waterlogged tank. A bigger pump will just run harder against the same blockage and wear out faster. Always diagnose the real cause—tank, sediment, or screen—before considering a pump upgrade. A properly sized pump matched to your well's recovery rate is more efficient than an oversized one.

How often should I recharge my pressure tank?

A healthy tank may need recharging every 3 to 5 years, depending on water chemistry and how hard the system works. If you're recharging more than once a year, the tank is probably failing and should be replaced. Frequent recharging means the air is dissolving faster than normal, which usually signals a leak or internal damage in the tank.

What's the difference between low pressure and low flow?

Low pressure means the gauge reads below 40 PSI. Low flow means water comes out slowly even though pressure is normal. Low flow usually points to a clogged screen or sediment in the line. Low pressure usually points to a tank, pump, or pressure switch problem. Both can happen at the same time if sediment is severe.