Check Your Pressure Tank and Pump First

Low water pressure from a well usually comes from one of three places: the pressure tank has lost its air charge, the pump is failing, or sediment is clogging the system. Before you call a well contractor, you can test the tank yourself in about ten minutes.

Turn off power to the pump at the breaker. Locate your pressure tank — it's the metal cylinder, usually 20 to 80 gallons, mounted near the pump or in the basement. Tap it with your knuckles from top to bottom. The top half should sound hollow (air-filled), and the bottom half should sound solid (water-filled). If the whole tank sounds solid, the air bladder has failed and the tank cannot store pressure between pump cycles.

Check the air valve on top of the tank — it looks like a tire valve. Use a tire pressure gauge to measure the air pressure inside. It should read about 2 pounds per square inch (PSI) below your pump's cut-in pressure. If your pump turns on at 30 PSI, the tank air should be around 28 PSI. If the gauge reads zero or very low, air has leaked out.

Key Takeaways

  • A pressure tank that sounds full of water instead of air has lost its air charge and needs to be re-pressurized or replaced.
  • You can measure tank air pressure with a tire gauge on the valve at the top, and it should be 2 PSI below your pump's cut-in pressure.
  • Sediment buildup in the tank or pipes reduces pressure and can be flushed out by opening the drain valve at the tank bottom.
  • If pressure is low everywhere in the house, the pump itself may be failing and will need professional inspection or replacement.
  • If pressure is low only at certain fixtures, the problem is usually a clogged aerator or a closed isolation valve, not the well system.

Re-Pressurize the Tank Air Bladder

If the air pressure in your tank is low, you can refill it yourself using a bicycle or electric air pump. Turn off the pump at the breaker and drain the tank completely by opening the drain valve at the bottom — let water run into a bucket until nothing comes out. This prevents you from pumping air into water.

Attach your pump to the air valve on top of the tank and pump until the gauge reads the target pressure. For a 30/50 PSI system (pump turns on at 30, shuts off at 50), pump to 28 PSI. For a 40/60 system, pump to 38 PSI. Do not exceed the target — over-pressurizing wastes pump cycles and wears the tank faster.

Close the drain valve, turn the pump back on at the breaker, and let it run until it shuts off on its own. Check your water pressure at a sink faucet. If pressure is now normal, the tank was your problem. If pressure is still low, move to the next step.

Flush Sediment from the Tank and Lines

Sand, silt, and mineral buildup inside the pressure tank or in the well lines will reduce pressure throughout the house. You can flush this sediment out without calling a contractor.

Turn off the pump at the breaker. Open the drain valve at the bottom of the pressure tank and let water run into a bucket or floor drain. Watch the water color — it should start brown or cloudy and gradually clear. Once it runs clear for at least 30 seconds, close the drain valve. Turn the pump back on and run water at a sink for two to three minutes to flush the lines.

If the water is still discolored after flushing, sediment is deeper in the well or pump. At this point, a well contractor can perform a more thorough flush using specialized equipment. But if flushing clears the water and pressure improves, you have solved the problem at no cost.

Inspect the Pump and Motor for Wear

If the tank air pressure is correct, the tank sounds right, and you have flushed sediment but pressure is still low, the pump itself may be wearing out. A submersible pump typically lasts 8 to 15 years depending on water quality and how often it runs.

Listen to the pump while it is running. A healthy pump makes a steady hum. A pump that cycles on and off every few seconds, makes grinding noises, or sounds like it is struggling is likely failing. Check whether the pump is running at all — if you hear nothing and no water is flowing, the motor may have burned out.

At this stage, you need a well contractor to pull the pump and inspect it. They can tell you whether it can be repaired or needs replacement. Do not attempt to pull a submersible pump yourself — they are heavy, the electrical connections are dangerous, and the well casing can be damaged if done incorrectly.

Check for Leaks in the Pressure Tank

A slow leak in the tank itself will cause pressure to drop between pump cycles, making the pump run more often and reducing the pressure available at your faucets. Look for water pooling under or around the tank, or rust stains running down the sides.

If you see active dripping, the tank has a pinhole leak or a failed weld. Small leaks sometimes stop on their own as mineral deposits seal the hole, but they usually get worse. A leaking tank must be replaced — patching or epoxy will not hold under pressure.

If the tank is dry but pressure still drops quickly after the pump shuts off, the leak may be in the check valve (a one-way valve that prevents backflow). A failed check valve allows water to drain back into the well when the pump is off. A well contractor can replace this valve without removing the entire tank.

Verify Isolation Valves Are Fully Open

Some well systems have isolation valves on the main water line between the tank and the house. These valves look like a lever or a round knob on the pipe. If one is partially closed, it will restrict pressure to part or all of the house.

Locate any valves on the main line coming from the pressure tank. The lever-style valves should point in the same direction as the pipe (parallel = open, perpendicular = closed). The round knob valves should turn counterclockwise until they stop — do not force them. If you find a closed or partially closed valve, open it fully and check your pressure again.

Also check for isolation valves under individual sinks or behind toilets. If pressure is low only at one fixture, the isolation valve for that fixture may be closed. Open it by turning counterclockwise until it stops.

Clean or Replace Aerators and Screens

If pressure is low at only one or two faucets but normal everywhere else, the problem is not your well system — it is a clogged aerator or screen at that fixture. The aerator is the small mesh screen at the tip of the faucet.

Unscrew the aerator by turning it counterclockwise by hand. Rinse it under running water and use an old toothbrush to scrub away mineral buildup. If it is heavily clogged, soak it in white vinegar for one hour, then scrub again. Screw it back on and test the pressure.

If the aerator is cracked or the screen is torn, replace it with a new one from a hardware store — they cost a few dollars and take 30 seconds to install. This is the cheapest and easiest fix for low pressure at a single fixture.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my pressure tank air bladder is bad?

Tap the tank from top to bottom with your knuckles. The top half should sound hollow and the bottom half solid. If the whole tank sounds solid, the air bladder has failed. You can also use a tire pressure gauge on the air valve at the top — if it reads zero, air has leaked out and the tank needs to be re-pressurized or replaced.

What is normal water pressure for a well system?

Most well systems are set to 30/50 PSI or 40/60 PSI, meaning the pump turns on when pressure drops to 30 or 40 PSI and shuts off when it reaches 50 or 60 PSI. You can check your pressure with a gauge screwed onto a hose bib. Pressure below 30 PSI feels weak at the faucet; above 80 PSI can damage fixtures and seals.

Can I increase water pressure by adjusting the pump?

Yes, but only slightly and only if you know what you are doing. The pump has an adjustment screw that controls cut-in and cut-off pressure. Turning it clockwise increases pressure, but raising it too high wears out the pump and tank faster. Most homeowners should not adjust this themselves — a well contractor can do it safely and verify the change with a gauge.

How often should I check my pressure tank air pressure?

Check it once a year, ideally in the fall before winter. Air pressure naturally leaks out slowly over time, and cold weather can lower it further. If you find it low, re-pressurize it when ready — running the pump with low tank air pressure causes it to cycle too often and wears it out faster.

What should I do if pressure is low only in the winter?

Cold water is denser than warm water and flows more slowly through pipes, which can feel like lower pressure. This is normal. If pressure drops noticeably in winter, the tank air pressure may have fallen due to cold — check it with a gauge and re-pressurize if needed. If the problem is only at one fixture, the aerator may be frozen or clogged with mineral deposits.