What causes low pressure and how to fix it

Low water pressure on a well system usually comes from one of four places: a clogged intake screen, a waterlogged pressure tank, a failing pump, or sediment in your pipes. The fix depends on which one is the culprit. Start by checking whether the problem is everywhere in the house or only at certain fixtures — if it's only the kitchen sink, you likely have a clogged aerator, not a well problem. If pressure is low throughout the house, move to the pressure tank.

The pressure tank is the most common cause and the easiest to fix yourself. Over time, the air bladder inside the tank loses its charge, and the tank fills with water instead of maintaining the air cushion that pushes water into your lines. You can recharge it in about 20 minutes with an air compressor and a tire gauge. If that doesn't work, the tank itself may have failed and will need replacement.

Key Takeaways

  • A waterlogged pressure tank is the most common reason for low pressure and can be recharged with an air compressor if the air valve still holds charge.
  • Check your pressure switch settings — they typically range from 30/50 to 40/60 psi, and raising them increases pressure throughout the house.
  • A clogged intake screen at the well or sediment buildup in pipes reduces flow and may require professional cleaning or replacement.
  • If your pump is more than 10 years old and pressure remains low after tank and switch checks, the pump itself may be failing and need replacement.

How to recharge a pressure tank

Turn off power to the pump at the breaker before you start. Locate the air valve on top of the pressure tank — it looks like a tire valve. Use a tire gauge to check the current air pressure inside the tank. It should be about 2 psi below your pump's cut-in pressure (the lower number on your pressure switch). If it reads zero or very low, the bladder has failed.

If the gauge shows some pressure but it's low, use an air compressor to add air until you reach the correct psi. Most residential wells run at 30/50 or 40/60 psi — check the label on your pressure switch to know your numbers. Add air slowly and recheck with the gauge. Once you reach the target, turn the pump back on and test your pressure at a faucet. If pressure improves, the tank was the problem. If it stays low, move to the pressure switch.

Adjusting your pressure switch

The pressure switch tells the pump when to turn on and off. It has two settings: the cut-in pressure (when the pump starts) and the cut-out pressure (when it stops). These are usually set at the factory — 30 psi cut-in and 50 psi cut-out is common for older systems, while 40/60 is standard on newer ones. Raising both numbers increases the pressure throughout your house.

To adjust the switch, turn off power at the breaker and locate the switch near the pressure tank. It has two nuts on top, usually under a plastic cover. Loosen the larger nut (cut-out) or smaller nut (cut-in) by a quarter turn, then restore power and test pressure at a faucet. Increase in small increments — a quarter turn at a time — until you reach the pressure you want. Do not exceed 60 psi cut-out on a residential system, as this stresses pipes and fixtures. If you cannot reach adequate pressure even at 60 psi, the pump or intake is the problem, not the switch.

Cleaning or replacing the intake screen

The intake screen sits at the bottom of your well pipe and filters out sediment and debris before water enters the pump. Over years, it clogs with sand, silt, or mineral buildup and restricts flow. If your pressure is low but your tank and switch are fine, the intake screen is likely the cause.

Cleaning the screen requires pulling the pump and pipe assembly out of the well — a job most homeowners hire a well contractor for, since it involves disconnecting electrical lines and managing a heavy assembly. The cost typically ranges from $300 to $800 depending on well depth and local rates. If the screen is cracked or severely corroded, replacement costs more. A contractor can also check for sediment in the well itself, which may require shock chlorination or other treatment.

When the pump itself is failing

If your pressure tank is charged, your switch is set correctly, and your intake screen is clean, the pump may be wearing out. Submersible pumps typically last 8 to 15 years depending on water quality and how often the system cycles. As a pump ages, it loses the ability to build pressure even when running continuously.

You can test this by turning off the pressure switch (so the pump runs without stopping) and checking whether pressure continues to climb. If it plateaus below your target, the pump impeller is worn. Replacement usually costs $1,500 to $3,000 installed, depending on well depth and pump size. This is a job for a licensed well contractor, as it involves electrical work and precise pump sizing.

Dealing with sediment in your pipes

Sediment buildup inside your home's pipes reduces flow over time, especially in older systems. You may notice reduced pressure at specific fixtures — usually the highest points in the house or the farthest from the tank. If sediment is the problem, you'll see discolored water (brown or tan) when you first turn on a faucet after the pump has been off.

Flushing a single fixture is straightforward: remove the aerator from the faucet and run water through it for a minute. For whole-house sediment, you can install a sediment filter on the line between the tank and your home, or hire a contractor to flush the entire system. A whole-house filter costs $200 to $500 installed and needs cartridge changes every 6 to 12 months depending on sediment load. If sediment is recurring, the problem is usually at the well intake, not in your pipes — a contractor can advise whether cleaning the intake or installing a filter makes more sense for your situation.

When to call a well contractor

Handle pressure tank recharging and pressure switch adjustment yourself if you are comfortable with basic tools and electrical safety. Everything else — intake screen cleaning, pump replacement, sediment treatment, or shock chlorination — requires a licensed well contractor. Most charge $100 to $200 for a service call that includes pressure testing and diagnosis.

Before you call, write down your current pressure readings (use a gauge at an outdoor faucet), note when the problem started, and describe whether pressure is low everywhere or only in certain areas. This information helps the contractor narrow down the cause and give you an accurate estimate. Many contractors offer flat-rate service calls, so you know the cost before they arrive.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my pressure tank is waterlogged?

A waterlogged tank feels heavy and full of water when you tap it, and the air valve reads zero or very low psi on a tire gauge. The pump will also cycle on and off more frequently than normal — sometimes every few minutes — because there is no air cushion to maintain pressure between cycles. Recharging with an air compressor is the first step; if pressure does not improve, the bladder has failed and the tank needs replacement.

Can I raise my pressure switch above 60 psi?

No. Residential plumbing code limits pressure to 80 psi maximum, but most systems are designed for 40 to 60 psi. Going above 60 psi stresses pipes, fixtures, and water heaters and can cause leaks or premature failure. If you need more pressure than 60 psi provides, the pump itself is undersized or failing, and a contractor should evaluate it.

What does it mean if pressure drops suddenly?

Sudden pressure loss usually means a pipe has cracked or a fitting has loosened somewhere between the tank and your house. Check for water pooling in the basement or crawlspace, or listen for running water when no faucets are on. If you find a leak, turn off the pump and call a plumber. If you find no visible leak but pressure stays low, the problem is likely underground or inside a wall, and you may need a leak detection service.

How often should I check my pressure tank air charge?

Check it once a year, ideally in fall before winter stress on the system. If you notice pressure dropping over weeks or months, check it sooner. A tank that loses air charge repeatedly may have a failed bladder and should be replaced rather than recharged repeatedly.

Will increasing pressure reduce my water bill?

No. Pressure and flow are different — pressure is the force behind the water, while flow is the volume delivered. Raising pressure does not increase flow and will not reduce your bill. It may actually increase usage slightly because higher pressure makes water come out faster, so people may use more without noticing.