Pulling a submersible pump requires the right equipment and a methodical approach
Pulling a submersible well pump means removing it from the well casing so you can repair it, replace it, or inspect the well itself. The pump sits at the bottom of the well, connected to a power cable and a discharge pipe that runs to your house. To pull it, you need to disconnect those lines, find the pump to a lifting device, and raise it slowly to the surface — a job that usually takes two to four hours depending on well depth and how stuck the pump is.
Most homeowners hire a well contractor for this work because the equipment is specialized and the risks are real: dropping a pump down the well, damaging the casing, or injuring yourself with the weight. If you decide to do it yourself, you need a tripod or A-frame rated for the pump's weight, a come-along or electric winch, and help from at least one other person. The pump itself typically weighs 50 to 150 pounds, but the water inside the discharge pipe adds another 20 to 40 pounds depending on depth.
Key Takeaways
- Turn off power to the pump at the breaker before you touch any electrical connections, and leave it off until the pump is fully removed from the well.
- You need a lifting frame rated for at least 1.5 times the pump weight, a come-along or winch, and a second person to help guide the pump and watch for snags.
- The discharge pipe and power cable must be disconnected and secured separately before you attach the pump to the lifting device.
- Raise the pump slowly and steadily, stopping every few feet to check for binding or damage to the casing, and never jerk or force it if it sticks.
- Once the pump clears the well, lay it on a clean surface and cap the well opening when ready to prevent contamination or accidental falls.
Turn off power and gather your equipment
Before you touch anything, switch off the breaker that controls the pump. Most submersible pumps run on 240 volts and can deliver a serious shock even when the pump is not running. Leave the breaker in the off position throughout the entire pull and do not turn it back on until the pump is completely out of the well and you have confirmed the new pump (or repaired pump) is ready to install.
Assemble your lifting equipment on level ground next to the well. You need a tripod or A-frame with a capacity rating at least 1.5 times the pump weight — if the pump weighs 100 pounds, your frame should handle 150 pounds or more. Attach a come-along (hand-operated winch) or electric winch to the frame. Lay out rope or cable rated for the load, a bucket for small parts, a wrench set, a flathead screwdriver, and a clean cloth. Have your helper stand by; pulling a pump alone is dangerous and often impossible.
Disconnect the discharge pipe and power cable
The discharge pipe carries water from the pump to your house. It is usually connected to the pump with a threaded fitting or a union (a two-piece connector that unscrews). Locate the fitting at the top of the well casing or just below ground level. Use two wrenches — one to hold the fitting on the pump side and one to turn the nut on the pipe side — and turn slowly to avoid cracking the fitting. Once loose, unscrew by hand and set the pipe aside. If water drains out, that is normal; have a bucket ready.
Next, locate the electrical connection. Most submersible pumps have a waterproof connector at the top of the well casing or a few feet below ground. The connector is usually a large plastic or metal cap that screws or clips onto the power cable. Unscrew or unclip it carefully and separate the two halves. Do not let the connector fall into the well. Coil the power cable loosely and find it to the well casing with tape or a cable tie so it does not tangle or get pulled into the well during the lift.
Attach the pump to the lifting cable
The pump has an eye bolt or lifting lug welded to the top of the motor housing. This is where you attach the cable or rope. Inspect the eye bolt for cracks or damage; if it looks compromised, do not use it — call a contractor instead. Thread a cable or heavy rope through the eye bolt and attach it securely to the come-along or winch using a shackle or a knot rated for the load. Double-check that the attachment is tight and that the cable is not twisted.
Before you begin lifting, have your helper position themselves at the well opening to watch the pump as it rises. They should watch for the cable catching on the casing, the pump tilting, or the discharge pipe snagging. Communicate clearly: agree on hand signals or a straightforward system like "up," "stop," and "down" so your helper can alert you if something goes wrong.
Raise the pump slowly and watch for binding
Begin winching or pulling at a steady, even pace. Do not jerk or rush. Raise the pump a few feet and pause. Have your helper check that the pump is coming up straight and that nothing is snagging. If the pump tilts or the cable angles sharply, stop when ready and lower it back down slightly to free whatever is catching. Binding usually means the pump is touching the casing wall or the discharge pipe is caught on something inside the well.
Continue raising in short increments, pausing every 5 to 10 feet to check alignment and listen for grinding or scraping sounds. If the pump feels stuck and will not move after a gentle pull, do not force it. Lower it back down, wait a few minutes, and try again — sometimes the pump settles and will come free. If it remains stuck after two or three attempts, stop and call a contractor; forcing a stuck pump can damage the casing or break the lifting equipment.
Clear the pump from the well and find the opening
Once the pump breaks the surface, continue raising it until it is completely clear of the well casing and suspended above the ground. Lower it gently onto a clean, flat surface — a piece of plywood or a tarp works well. Do not drop it or set it down hard; the motor housing can crack. Disconnect the cable from the eye bolt and move the lifting frame away from the well.
when ready cap or cover the well opening with a board, plywood, or a well cap. An open well is a hazard: someone or an animal can fall in, and debris or contamination can enter the water. If the well will be open for more than a few hours, find the cover so it cannot be moved or removed accidentally. If you are waiting for a replacement pump or repairs, keep the well capped until you are ready to install the new pump.
Common problems and how to avoid them
The most frequent issue is the pump sticking partway up. This usually happens because mineral deposits or sediment inside the casing have built up around the pump housing. Prevent this by not letting the pump sit idle in the well for years; if the pump fails, pull it within a few weeks. If it does stick, lower it gently and wait 10 to 15 minutes before trying again — sometimes the weight of the pump itself will help it settle and free up.
Another common problem is the discharge pipe catching on the casing or the pump itself. This happens most often in older wells where the casing has corroded or dented. To avoid it, make sure the discharge pipe is not kinked or bent before you start pulling. If it does catch, lower the pump slightly, rotate it gently if possible, and try raising it at a slightly different angle. Never pull hard enough to bend the pipe or damage the casing.
Electrical hazards are the third major risk. Even with the breaker off, a wet power cable can carry a charge if the pump is damaged. Wear rubber gloves when handling the electrical connector and never touch the cable with wet hands. If you see corrosion, water inside the connector, or any sign of damage, do not attempt to disconnect it yourself — call a licensed electrician or well contractor.
When to call a professional instead
If the pump is more than 100 feet deep, hire a contractor. The weight of the water column in the discharge pipe becomes significant, and the equipment needed is more specialized. If the pump is stuck and will not budge after a gentle attempt, stop and call for help; forcing it risks serious damage to the well.
If you are not confident using the lifting equipment or working at heights, or if you have any doubt about the electrical connections, hire a professional — the cost of a service call is far less than the cost of a damaged well or a serious injury. A contractor has the right tools, insurance, and experience to handle complications that can arise during the pull.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to drain the discharge pipe before I pull the pump?
You do not have to, but it is easier if you do. Before disconnecting the pipe, open a faucet in your house to relieve pressure and let some water drain out. This reduces the weight you are lifting and prevents a sudden gush of water when you disconnect the fitting. Have a bucket ready regardless.
What if the pump is too heavy for my equipment to lift?
Do not attempt it. Overloading a come-along or tripod can cause the equipment to fail suddenly, dropping the pump and injuring someone. If your equipment is rated for less than 1.5 times the pump weight, rent heavier equipment or hire a contractor with the right tools.
Can I pull the pump in winter if the well is frozen?
Avoid it if possible. Ice around the casing can bind the pump and make it much harder to pull. If you must pull in winter, pour warm (not boiling) water around the casing a few hours before you start to help loosen any ice. Work during the warmest part of the day.
How long does it take to pull a submersible pump?
For a shallow well (under 50 feet) with a cooperative pump, expect two to three hours. Deeper wells or a stuck pump can take four to six hours or more. Plan for the full day and do not rush; hurrying is when accidents happen.
What should I do with the pump after I pull it?
If it is being repaired, wrap it in a clean cloth and store it in a dry place until the repair shop is ready. If it is being replaced, you can dispose of it through an appliance recycling program or a scrap metal dealer — do not throw it in the trash. Keep the old pump until the new one is installed and working, in case you need to refer to its specifications.