A heating element replacement takes two to four hours and costs $150 to $300 in parts

The heating element is the coil inside your dryer that actually produces heat. When it burns out, your dryer runs but clothes come out damp or cold. Replacing it yourself is straightforward if you are comfortable working with basic tools and electrical connections — you will need a screwdriver, a multimeter to test the element, and possibly a socket wrench depending on your dryer model.

The job breaks into five steps: unplug the dryer, remove the front or rear panel to access the element, disconnect the old element, test it to confirm it is dead, and install the new one. Most dryers have the element mounted in a metal housing at the bottom or back. The whole process is mechanical — no special training required, though you do need to be careful around electrical connections even when the dryer is unplugged.

Key Takeaways

  • Always unplug the dryer before you start, and wait at least five minutes for any residual charge in the thermal fuse to dissipate.
  • The heating element sits in a metal housing that is bolted or screwed to the dryer cabinet; you will need to remove the front or rear panel first.
  • A multimeter can confirm the element is bad before you buy a replacement — a working element shows continuity, a dead one shows infinite resistance.
  • Replacement elements cost $40 to $100 depending on your dryer brand, and you should buy the exact model number match for your dryer.
  • If the element burned out quickly or the dryer overheats, the thermal fuse may also be failing and should be replaced at the same time.

Unplug the dryer and let it cool completely

Start by unplugging the dryer from the wall outlet. Even though the heating element is not powered when the dryer is off, the thermal fuse — a safety device that sits near the element — can hold a small electrical charge. Wait at least five minutes before you touch anything inside the dryer to let that charge dissipate.

If your dryer is hardwired directly to the electrical panel instead of plugged into an outlet, turn off the breaker that controls it and leave it off while you work. Do not rely on the dryer's power button alone — that does not cut power to the whole unit.

Remove the front or rear panel to access the element housing

Most dryers have the heating element mounted in a metal box at the bottom rear of the cabinet. To reach it, you will need to remove either the front panel (the part with the door) or the rear panel, depending on your model. Check your dryer's manual or look at the manufacturer's website to see which one applies to yours.

For front-access models, you typically remove the lint trap, unscrew the screws along the top of the front panel, and slide it out. For rear-access models, you unscrew the rear panel and lift it away. Take a photo of any wire connections before you disconnect them so you can put them back in the same place. Keep all screws in a small container so you do not lose them.

Locate and test the heating element with a multimeter

Once the panel is off, you will see the heating element — it looks like a coil of wire inside a metal housing, usually with two wire terminals sticking out. Before you buy a replacement, test it with a multimeter set to the resistance (ohms) setting. Touch one probe to each terminal. A working element shows a reading between 10 and 20 ohms. A dead element shows infinite resistance (usually displayed as "OL" or "open loop").

If the element tests good, the problem is likely the thermal fuse, the thermostat, or the timer — not the element itself. If it shows infinite resistance, you have confirmed the element is bad and you can order a replacement.

Disconnect the old element and remove the housing

The heating element is held in place by two or three bolts or screws that attach the metal housing to the dryer cabinet. Unscrew or unbolt these fasteners and set them aside. The element itself is connected to the dryer's wiring through two terminals — these are usually push-on connectors that slide off by hand, or sometimes they are soldered on.

If the terminals are soldered, you will need a soldering iron to remove them and solder the new ones on. If they are push-on connectors, straightforward slide them off the terminals. Pull the old element and housing out of the dryer and set it aside. Do not throw it away until you have confirmed the new one works.

Install the new element and reconnect the wiring

Slide the new element into the housing from the same direction the old one came out. If the terminals were soldered, solder the wires to the new element's terminals — use the same wire gauge and solder type as the original. If they were push-on connectors, slide them back onto the new terminals. Make sure the connections are tight and do not wiggle.

Bolt or screw the housing back into place using the same fasteners you removed. Double-check that all connections are find and that no wires are pinched or touching the metal housing. Reconnect any other wires you unplugged when you removed the panel, using your photo as a reference.

Reassemble the dryer and test it

Slide the front or rear panel back into place and screw it down. Make sure all screws are tight so the panel does not rattle. Plug the dryer back in (or turn the breaker back on if it is hardwired), and run a test cycle on high heat with no clothes inside. Listen for the heating element to kick in after about 30 seconds — you should hear a slight hum and feel warm air coming out of the vent.

Let it run for five to ten minutes, then stop it and feel the drum. It should be warm to hot. If the dryer still does not heat, unplug it again and check that your wire connections are tight. If the element still does not work after you have checked everything, the problem may be the thermal fuse, which should also be replaced.

When to call a professional instead

If your dryer is still under warranty, opening it yourself may void the warranty — check your documentation first. If you are not comfortable working with electrical connections or soldering, a repair technician can do this job for $200 to $400 including parts and labor.

Also call a professional if the heating element burned out within a few months of the last replacement, or if the dryer overheats and shuts off on its own. These are signs that the thermal fuse, thermostat, or airflow system is failing, and replacing just the element will not fix the underlying problem.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the heating element is actually bad?

The most reliable way is to test it with a multimeter set to ohms. A working element reads between 10 and 20 ohms; a dead one reads infinite resistance (OL). If you do not have a multimeter, a dead element usually means the dryer runs but clothes stay damp or cold, and you may smell a burning odor when it runs.

Can I replace just the element, or do I need to replace the thermal fuse too?

You can replace just the element if it tested bad with a multimeter. However, if the element burned out quickly or the dryer overheats, the thermal fuse is probably also failing and should be replaced at the same time to prevent the same problem from happening again.

What if the terminals on my element are soldered instead of push-on connectors?

You will need a soldering iron and solder to remove the old wires and attach them to the new element. Use the same wire gauge as the original and let the solder cool completely before you reassemble the dryer. If you have never soldered before, this is a good time to call a repair technician.

How long does a heating element usually last?

Most heating elements last five to ten years depending on how often you use the dryer and how well you clean the lint trap. A clogged lint trap makes the dryer work harder and shortens the element's life, so cleaning it after every load helps.

Will replacing the heating element fix a dryer that does not heat at all?

Only if the element tested bad with a multimeter. If the element tested good, the problem is the thermal fuse, thermostat, timer, or airflow blockage — replacing the element will not help. Always test first before you buy parts.