What a Motor Mount Does and Why It Fails
A motor mount is a rubber-and-metal bracket that holds your engine in place and absorbs vibration as the engine runs. Most cars have three to four mounts — one on each side of the engine, one at the rear, and sometimes one at the front. When a mount wears out, the rubber cracks or tears, and the engine can rock excessively, causing vibration you feel in the steering wheel, pedals, or cabin.
Motor mounts typically last 5 to 10 years depending on driving conditions and how much engine vibration the rubber endures. A worn mount will make itself obvious: you'll notice shaking when you accelerate, shift into gear, or hit a pothole. Replacing one is a job you can do yourself if you have basic tools and some mechanical confidence, though the difficulty varies by which mount you're replacing and your vehicle's layout.
Key Takeaways
- Motor mounts are rubber-and-metal brackets that hold the engine in place; a worn mount causes visible engine rocking and cabin vibration during acceleration or gear shifts.
- You'll need a jack, jack stands, basic hand tools, and a replacement mount specific to your vehicle's year, make, and model — order the correct part before you start.
- The job involves lifting the vehicle safely, removing the old mount's bolts, supporting the engine weight, and installing the new mount in reverse order.
- Front and side mounts are usually accessible from under the hood or wheel well; rear mounts often require removing the subframe or transmission crossmember and take longer.
- If the engine sags or won't sit level after installation, the new mount may be faulty, or you may have missed a bolt or installed it backward.
Gather the Right Tools and Parts
Before you lift the vehicle, order a replacement motor mount designed for your specific year, make, model, and engine size. Motor mounts are not universal — a mount for a 2015 Honda Civic will not fit a 2015 Accord, and an engine mount for a 2.0L engine will not work on a 3.0L version of the same car. Check your owner's manual or call a parts supplier with your vehicle identification number (VIN) to confirm the correct part.
Gather these tools: a floor jack, two jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight, a socket set and wrenches, a breaker bar (for stubborn bolts), a rubber mallet, and possibly a motor mount removal tool if the mount is wedged tight. You may also need a transmission jack or engine support bar if you're removing a mount that requires the engine to be lifted slightly. Have a helper on hand — some mounts require one person to support the engine while another removes bolts.
Lift the Vehicle and Locate the Mount
Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel closest to the mount you're replacing (usually the front driver's side for a front mount, or the rear for a rear mount). Raise the vehicle with the floor jack under a solid frame point — never under the oil pan or plastic trim — and find it with jack stands placed under the frame on both sides. Lower the vehicle onto the stands and remove the wheel if needed for access.
Locate the motor mount by following the engine block to the bracket bolted to the frame. Most mounts have a large bolt running through the rubber center and smaller bolts securing the bracket to the frame or engine. Take a photo of the mount's position and bolt arrangement before you remove anything — this photo will guide reassembly. If the mount is difficult to see, consult your vehicle's service manual for the exact location and bolt pattern.
Remove the Old Mount
If the mount requires the engine to be lifted slightly to remove it, install an engine support bar across the top of the engine bay, or position a transmission jack under the oil pan with a block of wood to distribute pressure. Raise the support just enough to take weight off the mount — do not lift the engine high, as this can strain hoses and wiring. Some mounts come free with just the bolts removed; others are wedged and require gentle prying with a rubber mallet or a motor mount removal tool.
Remove all bolts securing the mount to the frame and engine block. Keep bolts organized by size and location — take a photo or lay them out in order. Once the bolts are out, the old mount should slide free. If it's stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet or explore penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes. Do not force it or you risk damaging the frame or engine block. Once the old mount is out, inspect the bolt holes for damage and clean away any dirt or corrosion.
Install the New Mount
Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one — the rubber should face the same direction, and any brackets should align with the bolt holes. If your vehicle required engine support, keep it in place until the new mount is fully bolted down. Insert the bolts by hand first to may support they thread smoothly and the mount sits level. Tighten bolts in a cross pattern (like tightening a wheel) to may support even pressure on the rubber.
Tighten to the torque specification listed in your service manual — this is usually between 35 and 65 foot-pounds depending on the mount and vehicle. Do not over-tighten, as this can crack the rubber or strip the bolts. Once all bolts are tight, remove the engine support bar or transmission jack slowly, allowing the engine to settle onto the new mount. The engine should sit level and not rock excessively when you gently rock the vehicle side to side.
Reinstall the Wheel and Test
Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the torque specification in your owner's manual (usually 80 to 100 foot-pounds for most cars). Raise the vehicle with the jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it fully to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts a final time once the vehicle is on the ground and bearing its full weight.
Start the engine and listen for any unusual noise or vibration. Gently accelerate and shift between Drive and Reverse a few times — the engine should move minimally and smoothly. If the engine rocks excessively, shakes, or makes noise, stop and check that all bolts are tight and the mount is installed correctly. If vibration persists after confirming all bolts are tight, the new mount may be faulty or you may have installed it backward — remove it and inspect the orientation against your photo.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
If the engine sags to one side after installation, you likely missed a bolt or installed the mount backward. Remove the wheel and inspect the mount from underneath — all bolts should be present and tight. If a bolt is missing, install it and tighten to spec. If the mount is backward, the rubber will be on the wrong side or the bracket won't align properly; remove it, flip it, and reinstall.
If you hear a clunking noise when shifting gears, the engine may be moving too much because the mount is faulty or a bolt came loose during the test drive. Tighten all bolts again and test. If the noise persists, the new mount may be defective — contact the supplier for a replacement. If the old mount was severely deteriorated, other mounts may also be worn; inspect the remaining mounts for cracks in the rubber and replace any that show damage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I drive the car when ready after replacing a motor mount?
Yes, once you've confirmed all bolts are tight and the engine sits level, the vehicle is safe to drive. Take a short test drive at low speed to verify the vibration is gone before driving normally. If you notice any unusual noise or movement, pull over and check the bolts.
How much does a motor mount cost?
A replacement motor mount typically costs between $50 and $300 depending on the vehicle and which mount you're replacing. Rear mounts and mounts on luxury or imported vehicles tend to be more expensive. Labor at a shop usually adds $200 to $500 depending on how accessible the mount is.
What happens if I drive with a broken motor mount?
A broken mount causes excessive engine vibration and movement, which can strain other engine components, damage hoses and wiring, and make the vehicle uncomfortable to drive. It won't cause when ready failure, but it should be replaced soon to prevent secondary damage.
Do all motor mounts wear out at the same time?
Not always. Mounts wear at different rates depending on engine vibration, driving conditions, and the quality of the original part. If one mount is severely worn, inspect the others for cracks or soft rubber — you may need to replace multiple mounts if they're all aging.
What's the difference between an OEM and aftermarket motor mount?
OEM (original equipment manufacturer) mounts are made by the vehicle's manufacturer and are usually more expensive but designed to exact specifications. Aftermarket mounts are made by third-party suppliers and cost less but vary in quality. Both types work, though OEM mounts often last longer.