What you need to know before you start

A dryer heating element burns out when the coil inside it breaks, and the dryer will no longer heat clothes — they'll come out damp or cold. Replacing it means removing the front or back panel of your dryer, unbolting the old element from its housing, disconnecting the wires, and installing a new one in reverse order. The whole job takes 30 to 60 minutes if you have the right part and basic tools.

The heating element is not a repair you should attempt while the dryer is plugged in. You'll need to disconnect power at the breaker or unplug the unit before you touch anything inside. If you're uncomfortable working inside appliances or if your dryer is still under warranty, calling a service technician is the safer choice — they charge $150 to $300 for the part and labor combined, depending on your location and dryer brand.

Key Takeaways

  • You must disconnect power at the breaker or unplug the dryer completely before opening the cabinet or touching any internal parts.
  • The heating element is located inside the dryer drum housing and is held in place by a bolt or clip; you'll need to remove the front or rear panel to reach it.
  • Order the correct replacement element for your exact dryer model — the part number is on your dryer's nameplate, usually inside the door frame or on the back.
  • The element has two wire terminals that push onto spade connectors; take a photo before disconnecting so you can reconnect them the same way.
  • If you're not confident working inside appliances, a service technician can do this job safely and will warranty the work.

Locate your dryer model number and order the correct part

The heating element is specific to your dryer's make and model. Find the nameplate on your dryer — it's usually a sticker inside the door frame, on the back panel, or on the side wall. Write down the full model number. Then search online for "[your brand] [model number] heating element" or go directly to the manufacturer's website or a parts retailer like AppliancePartsPros or PartSelect.

The part costs $30 to $80 depending on the brand. Order it before you start the repair so you have it on hand. Some retailers ship within two days; others take longer. While you wait, gather your tools: a Phillips screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, a socket wrench or nut driver (usually 10mm or 15mm), needle-nose pliers, and a flashlight. You may also want a multimeter to test the old element and confirm it's actually burned out, though this is optional.

Disconnect power and remove the dryer cabinet panel

Unplug the dryer from the outlet or switch off the breaker that controls it. Wait 5 to 10 minutes for any residual heat to dissipate. Most dryers have either a front panel or a rear panel that gives access to the heating element. Check your dryer's manual or search online for "[your brand] [model] heating element location" to find out which one you need to remove.

For front-loading dryers, you'll usually remove the front panel by unbolting it from the sides and bottom. For rear-access dryers, you'll remove the back panel. Take a photo of the panel before you remove it so you remember where the bolts go. Carefully set the panel aside — it's often large and awkward. You should now see the drum and the heating element housing below or behind it.

Remove the old heating element

The heating element sits in a metal housing and is held in place by a single bolt or clip. Locate it and unbolt it using your socket wrench or nut driver. The element will slide out of the housing once the bolt is removed. Before you disconnect the wires, take a clear photo of how they're attached to the spade connectors on the element — this matters because reconnecting them wrong will prevent the dryer from heating.

Using needle-nose pliers, gently pull the wire terminals straight off the spade connectors. Do not yank or twist them; they should slide off with steady, even pressure. Set the old element aside. If the element looks intact and not visibly burned or cracked, you can test it with a multimeter set to ohms to confirm it's actually dead, but most of the time a dryer that won't heat has a failed element.

Install the new heating element

Slide the new element into the housing, aligning the bolt holes. Insert the bolt and tighten it firmly with your socket wrench — it should be snug but not over-tightened, which can crack the element. Now reconnect the wire terminals to the spade connectors, using your photo as a guide. Push each terminal straight onto its connector until you feel it seat firmly. The connections should be tight enough that you can't pull them off by hand without using pliers.

Double-check that both wires are fully seated and that no bare wire is exposed. If the wires look frayed or damaged, do not use them — contact a technician instead. Once you're confident the connections are correct, you're ready to reassemble the dryer.

Reassemble the dryer and test it

Carefully slide the cabinet panel back into place and bolt it down, using your photo to make sure every bolt goes back where it came from. Tighten all bolts firmly but don't over-tighten, which can crack the plastic or metal. Plug the dryer back in or switch the breaker back on. Run the dryer on a high-heat cycle for 10 to 15 minutes with no clothes inside and listen for the heating element to kick on — you should hear a faint hum or click as the element energizes.

Feel the outside of the dryer drum after a few minutes; it should be warm to hot. If it stays cold, the element may not be connected correctly, or the new part may be defective. Unplug the dryer, remove the panel again, and check that both wire terminals are fully seated on the spade connectors. If they are and the dryer still won't heat, the new element may be faulty — contact the parts retailer for a replacement.

When to call a professional instead

If you're uncomfortable working inside appliances, if your dryer is still under warranty, or if you don't have the right tools, a service technician is the better choice. They can diagnose whether the element is actually the problem — sometimes a dryer won't heat because of a failed thermal fuse, a broken door latch, or a bad thermostat instead. A technician will test the dryer before and after the repair and warranty their work, which gives you peace of mind.

You should also call a professional if you notice any of these signs: the heating element looks visibly cracked or melted, the wire terminals are corroded or damaged, the new element doesn't fit the housing, or the dryer still won't heat after you've reinstalled the element correctly. Trying to force a repair that isn't working can damage other parts of the dryer and make the job more expensive.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the heating element is actually broken?

The dryer runs but clothes come out damp or cold, and the drum gets warm but the air inside stays cool. You can test the old element with a multimeter set to ohms — a working element reads between 10 and 25 ohms, while a burned-out element reads infinite or zero. If you don't have a multimeter, a service technician can test it for you.

Can I use a universal heating element or does it have to match my exact model?

It has to match your exact model. Heating elements are designed for specific dryer cabinets and electrical systems. Using the wrong part can cause the dryer to overheat, fail to heat at all, or create a fire hazard. Always order the part number that matches your model number.

What if the heating element is stuck and won't slide out of the housing?

Mineral buildup or corrosion can cause this. Spray the bolt and housing with penetrating oil like WD-40, wait 15 minutes, and try again. If it's still stuck, tap the housing gently with a rubber mallet to loosen it. If it won't budge after that, stop and call a technician — forcing it can break the housing.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse when I replace the heating element?

Not necessarily, but many technicians replace both at the same time because the thermal fuse is inexpensive and often fails around the same time as the element. If you're already inside the dryer, it's worth asking yourself whether the fuse looks discolored or cracked. If it does, replace it too — it costs $10 to $20.

How long does a new heating element usually last?

A heating element typically lasts 5 to 10 years with normal use. It fails faster if the dryer is used heavily, if the vent is clogged (which makes the dryer work harder), or if the dryer is old and other parts are wearing out. Keeping the vent clean and not overloading the dryer extends the element's life.