What You Need to Do Before You Start

Removing and replacing a toilet is a job you can do yourself with basic tools and a few hours of time. The process breaks into three parts: shutting off the water and draining the old toilet, unbolting and lifting it out, and installing the new one. Most of the work is straightforward—the main challenge is the weight and the mess of old wax, so plan to work on a day when you can leave the bathroom out of service for a few hours.

Before you begin, gather your tools and materials. You will need an adjustable wrench or socket set, a putty knife or scraper, a bucket, old towels, a new wax ring (comes with most new toilets), new bolts and washers if the old ones are corroded, and a new fill valve if your old one leaks. Turn off the water supply at the shutoff valve behind the toilet—turn the handle clockwise until it stops. If there is no shutoff valve, turn off the main water supply to the house.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the water at the shutoff valve behind the toilet, flush to empty the tank, and sponge out any remaining water before you disconnect anything.
  • The toilet bolts are under the base on both sides; unbolt them, then rock the toilet gently side to side to break the wax seal before lifting it straight up and out.
  • Scrape the old wax ring completely off the flange, then press a new wax ring onto the flange before lowering the new toilet into place.
  • Tighten the bolts evenly on both sides—hand-tight plus a quarter turn—to avoid cracking the porcelain or creating a leak.
  • Reconnect the water supply, fill the tank, and check for leaks around the base before you use the toilet normally.

Drain the Tank and Disconnect the Water Line

After you turn off the water, flush the toilet to empty the tank. Use a sponge or old towel to soak up any water left in the bowl and tank—you do not want water spilling on your floor when you remove the toilet. Locate the water supply line, which is a flexible hose or rigid pipe running from the shutoff valve to the bottom of the tank. Use your wrench to loosen the nut where the line connects to the tank. Turn counterclockwise and keep a bucket underneath to catch any remaining water.

Once the water line is disconnected, set it aside. If the line is old and kinked, this is a good time to replace it with a new one—they cost a few dollars and come in standard sizes. Check the connection nut at the shutoff valve as well; if it is corroded or leaks when you turn the water back on later, you will want to replace that too.

Remove the Old Toilet

The toilet is held down by two bolts, one on each side of the base. These bolts go through the base and into the flange, which is a ring bolted to the floor underneath the toilet. Locate the bolt caps—they are usually plastic covers on the sides of the toilet base. Pry them off with a putty knife or flathead screwdriver. Underneath, you will see the bolt head and a nut.

Use your wrench to loosen both nuts by turning counterclockwise. Remove the nuts and washers completely. If the bolts are corroded and will not turn, spray them with penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes, then try again. Once both bolts are loose, the toilet is ready to lift. Rock it gently side to side—this breaks the wax seal between the base and the flange. After a few rocks, lift straight up and set the toilet on its side on old towels or cardboard. Do not try to carry it upright; it is awkward and heavy, usually 80 to 100 pounds.

Clean the Flange and Prepare for the New Toilet

With the old toilet out of the way, you will see the flange and the old wax ring. The wax is dark, sticky, and messy—scrape it off completely using a putty knife or old chisel. Work from the center outward and get every bit of wax off the flange surface. This is important because old wax left behind will prevent the new wax ring from sealing properly, and you will have leaks.

Once the flange is clean, inspect it for damage. If the flange is cracked or the bolts are stripped, you may need to replace the flange itself—this requires removing a few bolts and lifting out the old flange, then setting a new one in place. If the flange looks solid, press the new wax ring onto it. The wax ring is soft and sticky; center it on the flange and press it down firmly so it sticks. Some new toilets come with the wax ring already attached to the base, in which case you skip this step.

Set the New Toilet in Place and Bolt It Down

Before you lower the new toilet, check that the bolts are in the correct position on the flange—they should stick straight up on both sides. If your new bolts came loose during shipping, push them through the flange holes now. Lower the new toilet slowly and carefully, aligning the bolt holes in the base with the bolts sticking up. Once the base is resting on the wax ring, you should feel it settle slightly as the wax compresses.

Slide the washers and nuts onto the bolts. Tighten them by hand first, then use your wrench to tighten each one a quarter turn. Do not over-tighten—the goal is snug, not crushed. Tighten one side, then the other, then go back and check both again. If you tighten one side too much, you can crack the porcelain base or create an uneven seal. Once both bolts are tight, snap the plastic bolt caps back on.

Reconnect the Water and Test for Leaks

Reconnect the water supply line to the fill valve at the bottom of the tank. Hand-tighten the nut, then use your wrench to tighten it another quarter turn. Turn the shutoff valve counterclockwise to turn the water back on. The tank will fill; listen for the fill valve to shut off when the tank reaches the correct level. Flush the toilet and watch for leaks around the base, under the tank, and at the water line connection.

If water pools around the base, the wax seal may not have seated properly. Turn off the water, flush to empty the tank, and disconnect the water line again. You will need to unbolt the toilet, lift it out, and check whether the wax ring is in the right position or if old wax is still stuck to the flange. Clean it and try again. Small drips at the water line connection usually mean the nut just needs another quarter turn—tighten it slightly and check again. Once everything is dry after a few flushes, the job is done.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake is leaving old wax on the flange. Even a small patch of old wax will prevent the new wax ring from sealing, and you will have a leak that shows up days or weeks later. Scrape until the flange is completely clean and smooth. Another mistake is over-tightening the bolts. The porcelain base is brittle, and if you crank the bolts too hard, you can crack it. Tighten by hand first, then add just a quarter turn with the wrench.

A third mistake is not checking that the bolts are positioned correctly before you lower the new toilet. If the bolts are not aligned with the holes in the base, you will have to lift the toilet again and reposition them—messy and frustrating. Take 30 seconds to make sure they are in the right spot. Finally, do not forget to turn off the water before you start. If you disconnect the water line without shutting off the supply, water will spray everywhere.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a plumber to replace a toilet?

No. Toilet replacement is one of the most straightforward plumbing jobs and does not require a license. If you are comfortable using basic tools and following steps in order, you can do it. The only reason to call a plumber is if the flange is damaged, the bolts are stripped, or you run into something unexpected under the floor.

What if the old bolts are stuck and will not turn?

Spray them with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 15 to 20 minutes. The oil will seep into the rust and make the bolt easier to turn. If it still will not budge, you can cut the bolt with a hacksaw or bolt cutter, then lift the toilet out. You will use new bolts when you install the new toilet anyway.

Can I reuse the old wax ring?

No. Wax rings are single-use. Once the toilet is removed, the wax is compressed and no longer seals properly. Always use a new wax ring. They cost a few dollars and come in standard sizes that fit most toilets.

How long does the whole job take?

Most people finish in two to three hours, including cleanup. If the bolts are stuck or the flange is dirty, add another hour. The actual work is not difficult; most of the time goes to draining water, scraping wax, and waiting for the tank to refill.

What should I do if water leaks around the base after I finish?

Turn off the water and let the floor dry completely. If water is still pooling after a few hours, the wax seal did not seat properly. You will need to unbolt the toilet and lift it out again to check the flange and wax ring. Make sure the flange is completely clean and the new wax ring is centered before you try again.