What You Need to Know Before Starting

A dryer heating element is a coil of wire that gets hot when electricity passes through it. When your dryer stops heating but still tumbles, the element has burned out and needs to be replaced. You can do this yourself in about an hour with basic tools—no special skills required, though you do need to be comfortable working inside an appliance and handling electrical parts safely.

The element itself costs between $30 and $100 depending on your dryer model. You will need a screwdriver (usually Phillips), possibly a socket wrench, and a multimeter to test whether the element is actually dead before you buy a replacement. Most importantly, you must unplug the dryer from the wall outlet before you touch anything inside—this is not optional.

Key Takeaways

  • Unplug your dryer completely from the wall outlet before opening it; do not rely on turning it off.
  • The heating element is located inside the dryer drum and looks like a coiled wire; you access it by removing the front or rear panel depending on your model.
  • Test the element with a multimeter set to ohms before buying a replacement to confirm it is actually burned out.
  • The element slides out of its housing and connects with two wire terminals that straightforward pull off—no soldering or special tools needed.
  • After installation, run the dryer empty for 10 minutes to make sure it heats before drying clothes.

Locate Your Dryer Model Number and Find the Element

Your dryer model number is printed on a sticker inside the door frame or on the back of the unit. Write it down. Go to the manufacturer's website (Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, GE, Maytag, Electrolux) and search for your model number plus "heating element" or "thermal fuse assembly." You will find a parts diagram that shows exactly where the element sits and how to access it.

Most electric dryers have the element in one of two places: behind the front panel (more common in newer models) or behind the rear panel (more common in older models). The diagram will tell you which. Gas dryers do not have a heating element—they have an igniter and burner instead, so this repair does not explore to them.

Unplug the Dryer and Remove the Access Panel

Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. Wait five minutes. This allows any residual charge in the capacitor to drain safely. Do not skip this step.

If the element is behind the front panel, you will need to remove the lint trap, then unscrew the front panel (usually four to six screws along the bottom edge). Slide the panel toward you and lift it away. If the element is behind the rear panel, move the dryer away from the wall, unscrew the rear panel, and slide it off.

Once the panel is off, you will see the drum and the heating element mounted in a metal housing below or behind it. The element looks like a coiled wire about the size of your fist. Two wire terminals stick out from the housing—these are where the element connects to the dryer's electrical circuit.

Test the Element Before You Buy a Replacement

Set a multimeter to the ohms setting (the symbol that looks like an omega: Ω). Disconnect the two wire terminals from the element by gently pulling them straight out—they should come off easily. Touch one multimeter probe to each terminal on the element itself (not the wires).

A working element will show a reading between 10 and 25 ohms. A burned-out element will show "OL" (open loop) or infinity, meaning no electrical path exists through the coil. If you see a normal ohms reading, the element is not the problem—the issue is likely the thermal fuse, thermostat, or power supply, and you should stop here and call a technician.

Remove the Old Element and Install the New One

Once you have confirmed the element is dead, order the exact replacement for your model number. When it arrives, you are ready to swap it out. The element is held in place by a metal bracket or clip. Look for a screw or bolt holding the bracket to the dryer housing. Remove it with your screwdriver or socket wrench, then slide the old element straight out toward you.

Slide the new element into the same position, making sure it sits fully in the housing. Reinstall the bracket screw. Now reconnect the two wire terminals by pushing them firmly onto the terminals on the new element until they click or seat fully. The terminals should not come off if you tug gently on the wire.

Reassemble and Test

Slide the access panel back into place and screw it down. If you removed the front panel, make sure the lint trap is back in its slot before you close it. Plug the dryer back into the wall outlet.

Run the dryer on high heat with no clothes inside for 10 minutes. You should feel warm air coming out of the vent. If the dryer is still cold, unplug it when ready and check that the wire terminals are seated fully on the element. If they are and the dryer is still cold, the problem is elsewhere and you should call a technician. If the dryer heats, you can now dry clothes normally.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake is not unplugging the dryer before starting. Even though the heating element itself is not powered when the dryer is off, the capacitor inside holds an electrical charge that can shock you. Unplug it and wait five minutes every time.

The second mistake is pulling the wire terminals off too hard or at an angle, which can bend or break the terminal pins. Pull straight out, gently and slowly. If a terminal breaks, you will need to replace the entire terminal block, which is more work than replacing the element alone.

The third mistake is not testing the element before buying a replacement. If the element actually works, you have wasted money and time. Use the multimeter first.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my dryer has a thermal fuse instead of a heating element?

Some dryers have a thermal fuse that blows when the dryer overheats, cutting power to the heating element. If your dryer does not heat and the element tests good with a multimeter, the thermal fuse is likely the culprit. It is cheaper (usually $15 to $30) and easier to replace, but you must also find out why it blew—usually a clogged vent or lint trap—or it will blow again.

Can I use a universal heating element or do I need the exact model?

You need the exact element for your dryer model. Heating elements vary in wattage, terminal configuration, and mounting bracket. Using the wrong one can damage the dryer or create a fire hazard. Order by your model number, not by guessing.

How long does a heating element usually last?

Most heating elements last 5 to 10 years with normal use. They fail faster if the dryer vent is clogged (because the dryer runs hotter and longer) or if the dryer is used very frequently. Keeping the lint trap clean and the vent clear extends element life.

Do I need to replace the thermal fuse when I replace the element?

Not necessarily. The thermal fuse is a separate part that blows only if the dryer overheats. If it has not blown, you do not need to replace it. However, if it has blown, replace it at the same time you replace the element, because they are both straightforward to access once the panel is off.

What should I do if I cannot get the old element out?

If the element is stuck, do not force it—you can crack the ceramic insulation inside the housing. Spray a small amount of penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the edges where the element meets the housing, wait 15 minutes, and try again. If it is still stuck, stop and call a technician rather than risk breaking the housing.