What You Need to Know Before Starting

A dryer heater element is a coil of wire that heats the air inside the drum. When it burns out, your dryer will run but produce no heat—clothes will stay damp even after a full cycle. Replacing it yourself takes about an hour and costs $30 to $100 for the part, depending on your dryer model. You do not need special tools beyond a screwdriver and a multimeter to test the old element.

The job is straightforward because the element sits in an accessible housing at the back or bottom of the dryer. The hardest part is usually removing the cabinet panels to reach it. This guide covers the general steps that work for most electric dryers. Gas dryers use a different heating system and are not covered here.

Key Takeaways

  • Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet before you touch any internal parts—this is the single most important safety step.
  • The heater element is a metal coil usually found in a housing bolted to the back or bottom of the dryer cabinet.
  • You will need to remove the front or rear panel to access the element, which requires removing 4 to 8 screws depending on your model.
  • The element pulls straight out of its housing once you disconnect the two wire terminals and remove the mounting bolts.
  • Test the old element with a multimeter set to ohms—a reading of zero or infinity means it has failed and needs replacement.

Gather Your Tools and the Right Replacement Part

Before you start, collect a Phillips or flathead screwdriver (check your dryer manual to see which fits), a socket wrench or adjustable wrench in the size that fits your dryer's bolts (usually 1/4 inch), a multimeter, and a notepad. Take a photo of the wire terminals on the old element before you disconnect them—this prevents mixing up the connections on the new one.

Order the replacement element using your dryer's model number, which is printed on a sticker inside the door frame or on the back panel. Search online for "[your brand] [model number] heater element" to find the exact part. Common brands like Whirlpool, LG, Samsung, and GE all sell replacement elements directly or through appliance parts retailers. The element costs between $30 and $100; do not buy a universal element unless your manual says it will work with your model.

Unplug the Dryer and Remove the Access Panel

Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. Wait 5 minutes for any residual charge to drain from the circuit board. This step is not optional—touching live wires or capacitors inside a dryer can cause serious injury or death.

Locate the access panel. On most dryers, this is the rear panel held by 4 to 8 screws around the edges. Some models require you to remove the front panel instead; your manual will show which. Remove each screw and set them in a small container so you do not lose them. Gently pull the panel away from the cabinet. You may need to disconnect a thermal fuse or other small components clipped to the panel—note where they attach before you pull.

Locate and Test the Heater Element

Once the panel is off, look for the heater element. It is a metal housing, usually rectangular or cylindrical, bolted to the cabinet. Inside the housing is a coil of wire. Two wire terminals stick out from the housing; these carry power to the element. The housing itself is bolted down with 2 to 4 bolts.

Before you remove anything, test the element with a multimeter to confirm it has failed. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting (the symbol that looks like an omega: Ω). Touch one probe to each terminal. A working element reads between 10 and 25 ohms. A failed element reads zero (short circuit) or infinity (open circuit, meaning the wire is broken). If the reading is in the normal range, the element is not the problem—stop here and check other parts like the thermal fuse or thermostat.

Disconnect the Wires and Remove the Old Element

Take a photo of how the wires connect to the terminals before you touch anything. This photo is your reference when you install the new element. Gently pull each wire terminal straight off the element's posts. The terminals should come free with light pressure; do not twist or bend them.

Locate the bolts holding the element housing to the cabinet. Use your wrench to remove each bolt. Keep the bolts in your container with the screws. Slide the element housing straight out toward you. It may be tight—wiggle it gently side to side as you pull, but do not force it. Once it is free, set it aside.

Install the New Heater Element

Slide the new element into the housing opening, aligning it the same way the old one sat. Push it in until the bolt holes line up with the cabinet. Insert the bolts and tighten them firmly with your wrench—they should be snug but not so tight that you strip the threads. Do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the wire terminals to the new element's posts. Use your photo as a guide to match the original connections. Push each terminal straight onto its post until it clicks or sits flush. If the terminals are corroded or damaged, replace them with new ones from the parts supplier.

Reassemble the Dryer and Test

Slide the access panel back into place and align the screw holes. Insert each screw and tighten them by hand first, then snug them with your screwdriver. Do not over-tighten—you can crack the plastic. If you disconnected any components from the panel (like a thermal fuse), reconnect them now.

Plug the dryer back into the outlet. Run a test cycle on high heat with no clothes inside for 5 to 10 minutes. You should feel warm air coming from the vent. If the dryer still produces no heat, unplug it and check that the wire terminals are fully seated on the element posts. If heat returns, run a full cycle with a damp towel to confirm everything works. The dryer should dry the towel completely in 30 to 45 minutes.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common error is forgetting to unplug the dryer before opening the cabinet. A second mistake is reconnecting the wires to the wrong terminals—this is why the photo matters. A third is over-tightening the bolts, which can crack the element housing or strip the threads in the cabinet.

Some people buy a universal element that does not match their dryer model. Universal elements sometimes fit but may not heat to the correct temperature or may not last as long. Always order the element that matches your model number. If you cannot find the exact part, contact the manufacturer's customer service line—they can tell you which elements are compatible.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the heater element is actually broken?

A multimeter test is the only reliable way. Set it to ohms and touch the probes to the element's terminals. A reading of zero or infinity means the element has failed. A reading between 10 and 25 ohms means the element is working. If the reading is normal but the dryer still produces no heat, the problem is elsewhere—check the thermal fuse, thermostat, or power supply.

Can I replace the element without removing the entire panel?

No. The element housing is bolted to the cabinet from the inside, and the wire terminals are only accessible once the panel is off. You must remove the panel to reach the bolts and terminals. The panel removal is usually the longest part of the job.

What if the new element does not fit into the housing?

Stop and check that you ordered the correct part for your model number. A mismatched element will not fit. Contact the parts supplier or manufacturer to confirm you have the right one. Do not force it—forcing can damage the housing or the element.

Is it safe to run the dryer right after I install the new element?

Yes, once you have reassembled the cabinet and plugged it in. Run a short test cycle with no clothes to make sure heat is produced before you dry actual laundry. If the element was the only problem, the dryer should work normally.

How long does a heater element usually last?

Most elements last 5 to 10 years with normal use. They fail sooner if the dryer is used heavily, if lint builds up inside the housing, or if the element is exposed to power surges. Clean the lint trap after every load and have the vent duct cleaned once a year to extend the element's life.