What happens when you replace a pool liner
Replacing a pool liner means draining your pool, removing the old vinyl, and installing a new one in its place. The job takes two to three days for an average residential pool, though the actual labor spreads across that time with drying and setup periods in between. You can do this yourself if you have basic tools and patience, or hire a pool contractor to handle it—the choice depends on your comfort level and the condition of the pool structure underneath.
The liner itself is custom-fitted to your pool's shape and depth. When you order a replacement, you provide your pool's dimensions, and the manufacturer cuts it to fit. A new liner typically lasts 8 to 12 years before it needs replacing again, depending on sunlight exposure, chemical balance, and how often the pool is used.
Key Takeaways
- Draining the pool completely is the first step, and you should plan where the water will go before you start—most municipalities have rules about dumping pool water into storm drains.
- The old liner comes off in strips, and you need to inspect the pool floor and walls for damage, sharp objects, or soft spots that could puncture the new liner.
- A new liner must be ordered with your exact pool dimensions, and delivery typically takes one to two weeks depending on the manufacturer and whether you choose a standard or custom pattern.
- Installing the new liner requires filling the pool slowly while smoothing out wrinkles, a process that takes several hours and works best with a second person.
- You can rent a submersible pump to drain the pool, which costs less than hiring a contractor for that step alone.
Draining the pool safely and legally
Before you remove anything, you need to get the water out. A submersible pump (also called a sump pump) is the fastest method—you can rent one from most equipment rental shops for $20 to $40 per day. Place the pump intake in the deepest part of the pool and run the discharge hose to a location where the water can safely drain. Check your local city or county rules first: many municipalities prohibit dumping chlorinated pool water directly into storm drains or onto a neighbor's property. Some areas require you to dechlorinate the water first or direct it to the sanitary sewer system instead.
If you do not want to rent a pump, you can use a garden hose with a siphon starter, though this takes much longer—sometimes 12 to 24 hours for a full-size pool. Once the pool is empty, leave it to dry for at least a few hours before you start removing the liner. This makes the old vinyl easier to handle and prevents water from pooling underneath as you work.
Removing the old liner and inspecting the pool structure
Start at one corner and pull the old liner away from the pool wall, working your way around. The liner will come off in strips or sections—do not try to pull it out all at once. As you remove it, look for any debris, sharp rocks, or metal objects stuck to the underside. These are the things that will puncture your new liner if you leave them behind.
Once the liner is completely out, walk the entire pool floor and walls carefully. Look for cracks in the concrete, soft spots in the floor, or areas where the wall is separating from the structure. Small cracks can be patched with pool putty or concrete repair compound before the new liner goes in. Larger damage—especially soft spots or structural separation—may require professional repair before you install a new liner, because the new vinyl will not fix an unstable floor or wall.
Sweep or vacuum the pool floor to remove all dirt, sand, and small stones. Even tiny debris can create a bump that shows through the new liner or causes wear over time. If the pool has a concrete floor, you may want to explore a thin layer of sand (called a cushion layer) to protect the liner from the rough surface. This is optional for vinyl pools with smooth floors but recommended for concrete pools.
Ordering the correct liner size and material
Pool liners are custom-made to fit your specific pool. To order one, you need the pool's length, width, and depth, plus the shape (rectangular, oval, kidney-shaped, or custom). Most manufacturers also ask whether the pool is in-ground or above-ground, because the installation method differs. If you have the original paperwork from when the pool was built, that will have the exact dimensions. If not, measure the pool yourself: length and width at the water line, and depth at the deepest point.
Liners come in different thicknesses, typically 20 mil, 27 mil, or 40 mil (mil = thousandths of an inch). Thicker liners last longer and resist punctures better, but they cost more. A 27 mil liner is a common middle ground. You can also choose the color and pattern—solid colors are standard, but many manufacturers offer patterns that mimic tile or stone.
Delivery time varies by manufacturer and season. Standard liners usually ship in one to two weeks, while custom patterns may take longer. Order early if you are planning the replacement during pool season, because demand is higher and wait times increase. Some pool supply companies stock common sizes and can provide faster delivery.
Installing the new liner step by step
Lay the new liner in the pool and let it warm in the sun for 15 to 20 minutes—this makes the vinyl more flexible and easier to work with. Start filling the pool with water from a garden hose. As the water level rises, smooth out wrinkles by hand, working from the center toward the edges. The weight of the water will help pull the liner into place, but you need to guide it so it sits evenly.
Fill slowly—do not rush this step. Stop every few feet of water depth to check for large wrinkles or folds, especially in the corners. If you see a wrinkle that is not smoothing out on its own, drain a little water, adjust the liner, and refill. This takes patience, but it is much easier to fix wrinkles now than after the pool is full.
Once the water reaches the skimmer opening (usually about halfway up the pool wall), you can switch to a faster fill rate. Continue filling until the water level is about 6 inches below the top of the pool. At this point, the liner should be snug against all walls and the floor, with no major wrinkles visible. If you see small wrinkles near the top, they will usually disappear once you add the final water and the weight increases.
Finishing touches and equipment reconnection
After the pool is full, let it sit for a day before you reconnect the pump, filter, and other equipment. This gives the liner time to settle and ensures it is sitting properly. When you reconnect the pump and filter, check all hose connections for leaks before you turn the system on.
Once the system is running, test the water chemistry—chlorine, pH, and alkalinity—and balance it according to your pool's requirements. A new liner does not affect water chemistry, but the large volume of fresh water you added will need adjustment. If you are not sure how to test and balance the water, most pool supply stores will do a free water test and recommend the chemicals you need.
Keep the water level consistent over the first week. A new liner may shift slightly as it settles, and you may need to add water to maintain the proper level. After a week, the liner should be fully settled and stable.
When to call a professional instead
If the pool structure has cracks, soft spots, or areas where the wall is pulling away from the floor, stop and call a pool contractor. These problems need to be fixed before a new liner is installed, and attempting to cover them with a liner will only delay the real repair. A contractor can assess the damage and tell you whether it is a straightforward fix or a larger structural issue.
If you are not comfortable draining the pool or working at heights (for above-ground pools), hiring a contractor for the full job is reasonable. Labor costs vary by region and pool size, but expect to pay $1,000 to $3,000 for a complete replacement including the liner itself. If you want to save money, you can drain the pool yourself and have the contractor handle the removal, installation, and reconnection.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I patch a liner instead of replacing it?
Small punctures and tears can be patched with a vinyl repair kit, which costs $10 to $30 and includes adhesive patches. Patches work well for holes smaller than 1 inch. If the liner has multiple tears, large damage, or is more than 10 years old, replacement is more cost-effective than repeated patching.
How long does a new liner last?
Most vinyl liners last 8 to 12 years. Liners exposed to intense sunlight, used heavily, or maintained with unbalanced chemicals may wear out sooner. Thicker liners (40 mil) generally last longer than thinner ones (20 mil).
What do I do with the old liner?
Old vinyl liners can sometimes be recycled through pool supply companies or waste management facilities that accept vinyl. Call your local waste management office or pool supply store to ask about options in your area. Some facilities charge a small fee for recycling.
Can I install a new liner without draining the pool completely?
No. The old liner must be removed completely, and the pool floor must be inspected and cleaned before the new one goes in. Attempting to install a new liner over an old one or with water still in the pool will trap debris and cause premature failure.
Do I need to turn off the pump before draining?
Yes. Turn off the pump and filter system before you start draining. Once the water level drops below the skimmer intake, running the pump can damage it by pulling air instead of water. Leave the system off until the pool is refilled and the water level is above the skimmer again.