A sink sprayer replacement takes about 30 minutes and costs $15 to $40

A kitchen sink sprayer that leaks, won't retract, or has lost water pressure can usually be replaced without calling a plumber. The job involves disconnecting the old sprayer hose from under the sink, unscrewing the sprayer head from the hose, and installing a new one. You'll need an adjustable wrench, a bucket to catch water, and a replacement sprayer head that matches your sink's connection type—most are universal, but checking your current setup first saves a trip back to the store.

The hardest part is usually reaching the connection under the sink, not the actual replacement. If your sink cabinet is cramped or the connection is corroded, you may need a plumber, but most homeowners can do this themselves.

Key Takeaways

  • Turn off the water supply under the sink before you start, or you'll have a mess when you disconnect the hose.
  • The sprayer hose connects to a fitting under the sink with a compression nut—use an adjustable wrench to loosen it, turning counterclockwise.
  • Most replacement sprayer heads cost $15 to $40 and screw onto the existing hose, so you may not need to replace the hose itself.
  • If the hose is kinked, cracked, or leaks at the connection, replace the entire assembly instead of just the head.
  • Test the new sprayer before you close the cabinet—turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks at the connection.

Turn off the water and locate the connection under the sink

Open the cabinet under your sink and look for the water supply lines—usually two flexible hoses (hot and cold) coming from the wall. Follow the cold water line to where the sprayer hose connects. You'll see a small brass or plastic fitting with a nut around it. Before you touch anything, locate the shutoff valve on the cold water line (it looks like a small knob or lever) and turn it clockwise until it stops. If there's no shutoff valve under the sink, you'll need to turn off the main water supply to the house.

Place a bucket under the connection to catch any water still in the line. Turn on the sprayer at the sink to release pressure, then you're ready to disconnect.

Disconnect the old sprayer hose from the fitting

Use your adjustable wrench to grip the compression nut (the nut closest to the wall or faucet body) and turn it counterclockwise. You may need to hold the fitting itself steady with a second wrench so it doesn't spin. Once the nut is loose enough, unscrew it by hand and pull the hose away from the fitting. Water may drip—that's normal.

If the nut won't budge, spray it with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 15 minutes before trying again. Corroded fittings sometimes need two or three applications. Do not force it—a stripped nut means you'll need a plumber to remove the old fitting.

Unscrew the old sprayer head from the hose

Pull the hose out from under the sink and lay it on a towel. The sprayer head screws onto the end of the hose—grip the hose near the connection and unscrew the head by turning it counterclockwise. It should come off by hand, though sometimes it's tight. If it won't budge, wrap the hose in a towel and use a pipe wrench to grip it while you turn the head with your other hand.

Once the old head is off, look at the threaded end of the hose. If it's corroded, cracked, or the threads are damaged, you'll need to replace the entire hose assembly, not just the head. If the hose looks fine, you can reuse it.

Install the new sprayer head on the hose

Screw the new sprayer head onto the hose by hand, turning clockwise. Tighten it firmly but do not over-tighten—you want it snug enough that it won't leak, but loose enough that you can still unscrew it by hand if needed later. Most replacement heads come with a rubber washer already installed inside the connection; if yours didn't, check the package to see if one should be added.

If you're replacing the entire hose assembly, the new one will come with a sprayer head already attached. In that case, skip this step and move straight to reconnecting under the sink.

Reconnect the hose to the fitting under the sink

Feed the hose back under the sink and line up the end with the fitting. Push the hose onto the fitting until it seats fully—you should feel it stop. Screw the compression nut back on by hand first, turning clockwise until it's snug. Then use your adjustable wrench to tighten it another quarter turn. Do not over-tighten; you're aiming for "hand-tight plus a quarter turn," not "as tight as possible."

If you're installing a new hose assembly, the connection end may be different—some have a threaded ferrule that screws directly into the fitting instead of using a compression nut. Check the instructions that came with your new sprayer to see which type you have.

Turn the water back on and test for leaks

Slowly turn the shutoff valve counterclockwise to restore water pressure. Watch the connection under the sink for drips. Spray the sprayer head at the sink and check again. If water drips from the nut, turn off the water, tighten the nut another quarter turn with your wrench, and test again.

If the sprayer head leaks from the connection to the hose (not the nut), turn off the water and unscrew the head. Check that the rubber washer inside is seated properly and not damaged. Screw the head back on and test again. If it still leaks, the washer may need to be replaced—most hardware stores sell replacement washers for a dollar or two.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just the sprayer head, or do I need a new hose too?

If the hose is not kinked, cracked, or leaking at the connection, you can replace just the head. Most replacement heads cost $15 to $25 and screw onto your existing hose. Replace the whole assembly only if the hose itself is damaged or the connection won't stop leaking after you've tightened it.

What if water keeps dripping from the connection even after I tighten it?

Turn off the water and unscrew the sprayer head. Look inside the connection for a rubber washer—if it's missing, cracked, or flattened, replace it. If the washer looks fine, the threads on the hose may be damaged. In that case, you'll need to replace the entire hose assembly.

My sprayer head is stuck and won't unscrew—what do I do?

Soak the connection in white vinegar for 30 minutes to dissolve mineral buildup, then try again. If it's still stuck, wrap the hose in a towel and use a pipe wrench to grip it while you turn the head with another wrench. Do not use excessive force—if the head won't budge after two attempts, call a plumber rather than risk damaging the hose.

Do I need to replace the entire faucet if the sprayer doesn't work?

No. The sprayer is a separate component that connects to your faucet's cold water line. Replacing just the sprayer head or hose is much cheaper than replacing the faucet. Only replace the faucet if the faucet itself is leaking or broken.

What if there's no shutoff valve under my sink?

You'll need to turn off the main water supply to the house. Look for a valve near your water meter (usually in the basement, crawl space, or outside) and turn it clockwise. Once the job is done, turn it back on slowly to avoid air in the lines.