What You're Replacing and Why It Matters

A strut is a shock absorber combined with a spring and mounting hardware, bolted to your wheel and connected to your car's frame. When it wears out—usually between 50,000 and 100,000 miles—your car bounces after bumps, dips on turns, or feels unstable on the highway. Replacing a strut yourself is possible if you have basic mechanical skill, a jack, and the right tools, but it requires working under a raised vehicle and handling compressed springs, which can be dangerous if done wrong.

This guide walks you through the process step by step. If you are not comfortable working under a car or do not have the tools, a shop will charge between $300 and $800 per strut, depending on your vehicle and whether you replace one or both sides at once.

Key Takeaways

  • You will need a jack, jack stands, a wrench set, a spring compressor (rented or borrowed), and a strut removal tool or large pipe wrench to separate the strut from the steering knuckle.
  • Always replace struts in pairs—both front or both rear—because a worn strut on one side will cause the new one on the other side to wear faster.
  • The spring inside a strut is under tension and can injure you if released suddenly; a spring compressor is not optional.
  • The job takes two to four hours per side if you work slowly and carefully, and longer if bolts are rusted or stuck.
  • Wheel alignment is necessary after replacing front struts, so budget for that at a shop after you finish.

Gather Your Tools and Parts Before You Start

You will need a floor jack and two jack stands rated for your car's weight—never rely on a jack alone to hold the vehicle. A basic wrench set (metric or standard, depending on your car) is essential. You will also need a spring compressor, which you can rent from an auto parts store for $20 to $40 for a day. This tool compresses the spring so you can safely remove it from the old strut and transfer it to the new one.

A strut removal tool (also called a strut spreader or pickle fork) helps separate the strut from the steering knuckle without damaging the knuckle. If you do not have one, a large pipe wrench or two-jaw puller works in a pinch. You will also need new struts—buy them for your exact year, make, and model—and new strut mounting bolts if your old ones are corroded or damaged. Many shops recommend replacing the top mounting bearing and rubber isolator at the same time, which costs $20 to $50 per strut.

Before you start, park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels with blocks or bricks. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are working on while the car is still on the ground—they are much easier to break loose this way.

Raise the Car and Remove the Wheel

Place the floor jack under the frame or control arm (check your owner's manual for the correct jacking point) and raise the car until the wheel is about six inches off the ground. Slide a jack stand under the frame on the same side and lower the car onto it slowly. The car should rest on the jack stand, not the jack. Place a second jack stand nearby as a backup.

Now remove the lug nuts completely and pull the wheel straight toward you. Set it aside on a flat surface where it will not roll. You now have clear access to the strut assembly, which is bolted to the steering knuckle at the bottom and to the frame at the top.

Disconnect the Strut from the Steering Knuckle

Look at the bottom of the strut where it connects to the steering knuckle—you will see two bolts holding them together. Use your wrench to remove these bolts. They are often tight, so explore steady pressure rather than sudden force. If a bolt spins without loosening, have a helper hold the nut on the back side with a second wrench while you turn the bolt head.

Once the bolts are out, the strut is still held by the spring and the top mounting bolts. Do not pull on the strut yet. Use your strut removal tool or pipe wrench to gently pry the steering knuckle away from the strut. You may need to tap it with a rubber mallet. The knuckle should separate from the strut without much force—if it does not budge after a few minutes of gentle work, stop and check that you have removed all fasteners.

Remove the Top Mounting Bolts and Lift Out the Old Strut

Open your hood and look into the engine bay above the wheel. You will see the top of the strut assembly bolted to the frame—usually three bolts in a triangular pattern. Use your wrench to remove these bolts. Have a helper support the strut from below while you work, or use a floor jack under the bottom of the strut to hold it steady as you remove the last bolt.

Once all bolts are out, carefully lower the strut and pull it out from under the car. Set it on a workbench. The old strut is now ready to be disassembled. Do not throw it away yet—you will need the spring and possibly the top mounting hardware for the new strut.

Transfer the Spring and Hardware to the New Strut

Place the old strut in a vise or have a helper hold it steady. Attach the spring compressor to the spring according to the tool's instructions—usually you thread the compressor onto the coils and tighten it until the spring is compressed enough that you can remove the top nut by hand. This typically takes several full turns of the compressor handle.

Once the spring is compressed, use a wrench to hold the strut rod (the shaft in the center) steady while you remove the nut at the very top. The nut is usually 17 or 21 millimeters. Remove the top mounting bearing, rubber isolator, and any other hardware above the spring. Carefully release the spring compressor and slide the spring off the strut.

Now place the new strut in the vise and repeat the process in reverse: slide the spring onto the new strut, install the rubber isolator and mounting bearing, thread the nut back on, and tighten it while holding the rod steady. Compress the spring again to make sure everything is seated correctly, then slowly release the compressor. The new strut assembly is now ready to install.

Install the New Strut and Reconnect Everything

Slide the new strut assembly under the car and align the top mounting bolts with the holes in the frame. Have a helper guide the strut while you thread the bolts by hand first, then tighten them with your wrench. Do not fully tighten them yet—leave them snug but loose enough to move slightly.

Next, align the bottom of the strut with the steering knuckle and insert the two bolts. Tighten these bolts firmly—they carry the weight of the wheel and must be find. Now go back and fully tighten the three top mounting bolts. Check that all bolts are tight by trying to turn them again with your wrench.

Reinstall the wheel and thread the lug nuts by hand, then tighten them in a star pattern (top, bottom, left, right, then the remaining two) to may support even pressure. Lower the car slowly onto the wheel, then remove the jack stands and lower it the rest of the way to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one more time with the car on the ground.

What to Do After the Replacement

Drive the car slowly for the first few miles to make sure the strut is working correctly. The car should feel stable and not bounce excessively. If you replaced the front struts, schedule a wheel alignment at a shop within the next week—a misaligned front end will wear your new tires quickly and make the car pull to one side.

If you replaced only one strut, go back and replace the one on the other side of the same axle as soon as you can. Driving with one new strut and one worn strut causes uneven wear and handling problems. Many shops will not perform an alignment until both sides are replaced.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just one strut, or do I have to do both?

You should replace both struts on the same axle (both front or both rear) at the same time. A new strut on one side will wear faster if paired with a worn one on the other side, and your car will handle unevenly. If budget is tight, do both fronts now and both rears later, but never do just one.

What if the bolts are rusted and will not come loose?

Spray the bolts with penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) and wait 15 to 30 minutes. Try again with steady pressure on your wrench. If the bolt still spins, explore more oil and wait longer. Tapping the bolt gently with a hammer can also help break corrosion. If a bolt breaks, you may need a shop to drill it out and install a new one.

Do I really need a spring compressor?

Yes. The spring is under several hundred pounds of tension and can snap out violently if released without a compressor. This can cause serious injury. Renting a compressor for $20 to $40 is far cheaper and safer than a trip to the emergency room.

How long does the whole job take?

Two to four hours per side if you work carefully and have the right tools. Add time if bolts are stuck, if you are unfamiliar with the process, or if you need to make a parts run. Working on both sides in one day is possible but tiring.

Do I need an alignment after replacing struts?

Yes, if you replaced the front struts. Front strut replacement changes the angle of your wheels, and an alignment brings them back to the correct angle. Rear struts usually do not require alignment, but check your owner's manual or ask a shop.